MYANMAR PART 1

Our flight from Brisbane to Yangon via Singapore was excellent. Needing to drop off our rental car before 5pm and  forgetting to factor in that Brisbane is an hour behind NSW we, of course, arrived extremely early. This worked in our favour as we were allocated great seats on our flight just behind business class with loads of room. We were happy to people-watch in the airport, eat Sushi and sit and reflect on our Australian stay. Time always seems to fly by in airports anyway and, wondering what Myanmar was all about, was totally occupying our minds.

We had booked our first hotel ourselves but then opted to hand our whole 12 day stay over to 1stop Tours who then organised our entire itinerary. We gave them an outline of what we wanted to do and see and they filled in the blanks. Accommodation, flights, transfers, drivers, guides and all entry and activity fees were all included - all we had to pay for was lunch and dinner. This was the best move ever and although it sounded expensive to begin with…..it was not. We had such a relaxed, totally taken-care-of tour of Myanmar it was worth every penny.

Waiting to meet us at Yangon airport where the air was thick and muggy was our first driver. So helpful and so polite and wanting so much to try out his English. Our first stop was the Yangon office of 1stop to pay our fees, a little bit unnerving but also our first introduction to the city streets of Myanmar. Being super aware of the holes, the uneven broken footpaths, the electrical wiring, the cars, the rubbish, the dog poo, the bulging tree roots was all an experience not to be forgotten. It sounds awful but it wasn’t. Matched with the brightness, the colours, the Yangon hustle and bustle it was actually splendid. Following our driver on foot through this obstacle course we came to a small door which led up some stairs, then more stairs and then even more stairs. Shoes off we stepped over the threshold into this amazing company that had been prompt to reply to our emails, helpful and courteous, obliging and non-fussy and who did for us in one week what it might take others to deliver in several. We had walked into a room virtually no bigger than a small bedroom. All along one wall were beautiful girls in their lovely yellow uniforms tapping away at their computers. Along the back wall and moving forward were rows of desks with more uniformed people doing likewise. We were invited to sit at a comfortable couch and our agent went through every detail of every day. All our flights were numbered 1) 2) 3) on the outside so there were no mistakes. All were paid for and where seating was available was allocated. Activities, hires, tourist and admission fees……..all paid for. We were totally gobsmacked and that is how our whole trip remained…………hassle free.

We paid our fees willingly and started our amazing journey through Myanmar……….follow us and enjoy this special place with us. Smell the smells, see the vibrant colours in your mind and put this amazing country on your bucket list for the near future.

YANGON

Yangon is a big city bordered by the Yangon River. It is busy, noisy, dirty, exciting and beautiful all rolled into one. There are no motorbikes or scooters in Yangon just a plethora of cars. The city is often totally gridlocked, beautifully vibrant and very, very colourful. The local buses adhere to no road rules, the street food is amazingly awesome and diverse and the narrow side streets incredibly interesting.

We were lucky that our Hotel was positioned in 14^th Street in downtown Yangon just a stone’s throw away from the Yangon river. Our first night there we ventured to the night food market that stretched along the river road right at the end of 14^th street………….crossing the main river road was rather intimidating but, watching the locals, we braved the “just walk out” tactic and, hand aloft, we sallied forth getting to the other side unscathed. From here our next move was to find some edible food on one of the stalls. Simple! Look for one full of locals and you are home and hosed? Not this time…….the full one had a TV blasting out some kind of sport and ‘twas the only reason it was full.

We were definitely in the minority, in fact the only Westerners looking for food, but we found some nice looking chicken curry and rice and some other green soggy stuff and sat down to eat. Our knees were under our chins as we sat on our very small plastic stools at our very small plastic table…………but soon the place was full – we seemed to be the main attraction - and the poor guy was run off his feet. As we ate and sipped our free green tea, people were waving at us from the other little tables, giggling to themselves behind their hands and asking to take our photos. The food was good and it cost about $2.50c for the 2 of us!!!!!!! At this point all sights seen and thoughts thought needed to be totally put from our minds.

Walking back to our hotel we passed stalls selling fried quails eggs, all sorts of amazing BBQ’d meats and fish, fresh fruit (including Kiwifruit and some we did not recognise), huge avocados and Myanmar crepes. All looked fresh and wholesome and were very cheap. Ducking into a tiny shop we bought 2 large bottles of Myanmar Beer straight from the freezer for 160 kyat (chat) each – to celebrate our arrival in a country we knew we were going to fall in love with.

The following day our very lovely guide, Zaw,  and driver from 1stop picked us up and we did the usual Yangon tour – some by foot and some by car. Lovely old colonial buildings built during the British occupation still stood proud and beautiful – the Old Telegraph Office where ancient cash registers (that Gary had worked on in his past life), telephones and telegraphic/morse code equipment were on display. The huge courthouse, beautifully preserved, and the Offices of the Ministers, a rich, red, brick building.

We visited the Independence monument, Kandawgyi Lake, Singu Min Bell and many Pagodas and temples. The Chaukhtatgyi Buddha temple, Sule Pagoda, Botataung Pagoda and many more. We learned about Beetle Nut and how to chew it from a wizened, old, lady stallholder and were bemused by the extremely old “pull gate closed” lift which was operational, being used to get people to and from the library but, had no gate and just a huge, open, gaping hole to look down into the shaft until the lift cage came to fill it. No health and safety here but no one was worried or stupid enough to injure themselves. It was a means to an end and worked just fine.

Outside was another means to an end – the  local emergency fire station which consisted of 8 buckets – some with sand in and some empty – and 8 long, red and white striped, bamboo poles each with a hook on the end. Go figure that one, we couldn’t!!!!!.

We went to Scotts Market – well we had to didn’t we – had a good look around but bought nothing -the jewellery was indeed very expensive however beautiful it was. We enjoyed a really nice lunch of Papaya Salad, once again freshly prepared at a street stall in the market, only this time we paid “tourist prices” (still cheap but you do have to be aware of this little trick). Once again we became the main attraction and other Europeans and locals came to eat. Here we met a beautiful older Burmese couple, now living in Spain but who were home visiting family. They chatted happily with us for some time whilst a group of young women sat giggling behind their hands curious to see whether we would enjoy the salad. What we are beginning to understand that the Burmese people are extremely proud of Myanmar and to pay their country a compliment and to sit with them and share and enjoy their food humbles them deeply. They are a very grateful nation.

After lunch we strolled down by the dockside to watch the small colourful skiffs ferrying in the market people loaded with goods to sell. The dock was a minefield of broken or missing boards and women were squatting doing their washing in the muddy, brown Yangon River. It was by now getting very hot and we were glad to get back into the comfort of our air conditioned car.

We probably saw much more in Yangon than the above but the best was definitely saved until the last. The awesome 2,500 year old Shwedagon Pagoda which we planned to explore until the sun went down. This is a massive complex where many smaller pagodas encircle the main Shwedagon  Pagoda in which 8 of Buddhas hairs are enshrined along with other relics. It has been made taller over the centuries by various Kings and Queens and now stands at a height of nearly 100metres (99.36). One of its main assets is the 72 carat diamond sitting on the top in the diamond bud which in itself is encrusted with 4 ,531 diamonds. Whilst the lower third of the Pagoda is covered in gold leaf the top two thirds is gold plated.

This Pagoda has many functions and is the most sacred and impressive Buddhist sites for the people of Myanmar. The local people come here to honour Buddha, to bring gifts and flowers for Buddha and to place offerings before him in the hope that their lives will be blessed and that they will eventually attain Enlightenment. There is a shrine with a Buddha and a gong at a different station for each day of the week dotted around the main Pagoda and depending on which day of the week you are born you bang the gong 3 times, then  pour 7 cups of water over the relevant Buddha and touch him to show your gratitude of being born on that day. I was born on a Saturday so am a Dragon and Gary on a Sunday so is a Garuda – we both did the ceremonial blessing at our appropriate Buddha.

Monks live, meditate and pray here and devotees leave huge donations of money in big glass boxes which helps towards the upkeep of this enormous community site. You need to imagine not just the one Shwedagon Pagoda but one surrounded by many. Many Pagoda, many Temples, many Shrines. . It is a magnificent sight and as the sun goes down and the lights slowly come up it is a truly spectacular sight -  probably the most comforting place to be at sunset as long as you can screen out the crowds.

At the end of our busy, hot day we ventured out again from our hotel to buy another one of those lovely cold beers. Walking along the street we came across a man with a cage full of tiny birds. He crouched down, placed his hand inside the cage and one by one he threw them into the air. Some flew back down to sit on the hands of the watching people, just for a short while, then flew away into the darkness. Was he giving them their freedom? – we will never know!

MANDALAY

The following day we flew from Yangon to Mandalay and were met at the airport by our new female guide, Khaing, and driver. So stressless.

Feeling slightly Pagoda’d out we explained that we would love to see more of the grass roots of Mandalay and this proved to be a great move. Travelling into the countryside we saw so much more. Rice Paddy fields, “back of a van mobile petrol pump”, local villages where clay pots were made of all shapes and sizes and sold for a mere pittance, elderly women squatting over small stick fires in the middle of “the kitchen” cooking food for all the family. The local school and the local “shop on wheels”. We climbed a mountain (in the car) and at the top fed happy monkeys with bananas the local people had brought with them. We walked back down the mountain though, down a series of steps that took forever but was an experience in itself. We saw silk Longy being made in Amarapura – each Longy required dozens of shuttles filled with beautiful, coloured, silk thread to be continually manually inserted into the loom to create the wondrous patterns that flowed from beneath. These girls were so quick that my brain itched just watching them.

We observed intricate silver beaten pots being handcrafted in Sagaing where I bought a hand made solid silver rose necklace to wear and to keep as a constant memory of this beautiful land. The mainly young, but some also older men, sat on the hard ground, backs bent, using their feet to hold their treasure whilst beating it with a wooden hammer and fine chisel – the designs were extremely intricate as they unfolded. All day, every day they plied their craft and were such a happy bunch. Next was woodcarving which, once again, is a craft handed down through the generations. Bodies doubled over, sitting on the hard earth and in high humidity, the youngest would have been about 5 years old and the eldest possibly the great grandfather. All the adult workers chew “beetle nut” so when they look up at you and smile they expose gruesomely red, decaying teeth. These beautiful carvings they create will be used in the temples, are made in panels and will eventually cover complete walls – just mind blowing to witness. Once again another happy bunch.

We finished our first day in Madalay walking the U Bein Bridge which is a crossing that spans the Taugthaman Lake near Amarapura. The bridge is 1.2kms long and is said to be the oldest and longest Teak bridge in the world. Gary walked the bridge with a constant companion by his side – he always seems to pick up an attachment wherever we go. She wanted to practice her English but also wanted him to buy a gaudy necklace. She was extremely sweet but totally unshakeable. We happened across 6 happy young men with guitars giving an impromptu sing song on the bridge then we sat and watched the sun go down. Our day was complete.

The hotel in Mandalay was beautiful and each morning the breakfast incredible. Unfortunately there were no street food stalls or restaurants in the area so we spent our evening drinking mojitos and eating spring rolls at the bar in the hotel. Really couldn’t have been any better! The weather was perfect too which helped enormously.

The following day Khaing took us on a boat trip on the mighty Ayerarwaddy river. Firstly though, to even get on our boat, we had to walk narrow planks placed from bow to bow across 7 boats!!! We were aided in places, the boats are big and the bows high out of the water, by the boats husband and wife team stretching a bamboo pole between them to act as a hand rail. This did make it a lot easier for us although Khaing just tripped across lightly and the husband and wife smiled. We were greeted with Green tea and fruit for our journey which was refreshing and delicious. The wife also reappeared with a basket of “tourist goodies” for us to buy!!!!

We were off to Mingun Island to see the Monuments of Mingun - The Unfinished Pagoda and the most amazing Hsinbyume Pagoda which is all white and visually stunning. There is such a romantic and tranquil feel about this temple and its shape and design – 7 layers representing 7 mountain ranges with Mount Meru in the middle - is intriguing. From the two terraces the views are excellent and to me it was like a small Taj Mahal. In saying that this temple was built, in 1816, as a memorial to the consort of King Bagyidaw which adds to its splendour and intrigue. Mount Meru is also considered to be at the centre of the Buddhist Universe.

The Unfinished Pagoda or Mingun Paya or Pahtogawdi Pagoda was started in 1790 and would have been the worlds largest stupor had it been finished. It is made from red brick and as we approach the island it is clearly visible from a great distance. It is made from red brick and glints in the sunshine. Only the bottom third – the plinth – was completed when work stopped on the death of King Bodawpaya in 1819 but this 240 foot cube still reaches a massive height of 460 feet. In 1838 the structure was sadly damaged by a severe earthquake and more recently again in August 2016 and now sports huge, wide, deep cracks that would envelope a human being. It is widely thought that the white Pagoda (Hsinbyume) that I spoke about earlier was built with materials pilfered from Mingun Paya. Walking to the top the views are incredible over the bay and also the remnants of two, decaying Chinthe (half lion half dragon deities) built as guardians of the stupor are visible. Sadly only their haunches are left.

Close by is housed the worlds largest, bronze, ringable bell that was commissioned by the King to adorn Mingun Paya. Sadly it never made it to its intended destination but can still be rung by hand. This bell weighs 90 tonnes, is 13feet high and 16feet wide and has a beautiful pure sound. How it could have been heaved into place though is quite beyond the imagination. Typical Gary he crawled inside whilst Khaing rang the bell – not once, not twice but three times!!!!!! He definitely is a glutton for punishment.

Making our way back through Mingun village to the very dusty “harbour” past all the tourist stalls and hawkers and little puppies champing at our ankles, we clambered back on board our skiff and headed back to the reality of Mandalay – once again to walk the planks but this time with no bamboo hand rails. We had finished our trip, the sun had set – their job was done!!!!

We visited the Palace which spreads over acres within the bustling city. The buildings are plush and quite nicely kept but are mainly empty inside so your imagination has to take over to get the real feel of how it would have been. We were surprised how spartan the grounds were for a palace but believe the outer buildings are now used by the Military so assume upkeep is minimal.

A Monastery was our next visit – this was completely made from Teak and had been moved, piece by piece, from the Palace grounds to its current location. This was such a beautifully carved building throughout and teamed with all its gold it was a joy to behold. There were areas here, as there are in many places of worship in Myanmar, where females are not allowed to enter.

Speaking of gold our visit to the “gold leaf factory” was amazing. Gold leaf is very, very, very thin and is applied generously to Buddha statues in the Pagodas, stupors and temples of Myanmar in the hope of bringing Enlightenment and good luck to its donors. In order to get the gold so thin several layers, sandwiched between bamboo paper and finally wrapped and tied in banana leaf to form a thick block, are then attached to a post. Men take their place behind each post and block, then swinging a long, wooden hammer above their heads and down against the block they begin to beat the life out of this unsuspecting package of sandwiched gold. This, however, is the main aim – to make a small square of gold leaf into a thinner much bigger square of gold leaf – but what is truly amazing is the tune the swinging hammers make as they each hit the blocks at a different interval. Very spectacular.

We watched dozens of “monkettes” swimming in a refreshing creek, shampooing their bodies, washing their robes and having so much fun in the water. Around them women were doing their daily washing as is the norm in Myanmar and just behind them was a massive rubbish tip!!!!!

A trip to a local school run by the Monastary and free to children was spell binding. The children were just finishing their lessons, were beautifully clothed in either pink and white robes (as the nuns are) or green shorts and white shorts (both boys and girls) or deep red robes as the monks. Very few had shoes and most sported an exercise book and a worn-down pencil. All work was done on the dusty floor. The respect for their teachers was huge, the work was neat, not a computer was in sight but, most poignant of all was………….the children were so, so happy. Gary kicked a rattan ball around with a few of the boys bringing forth…….yes…… more giggles and we left there with smiles on our faces as big as the happiness in the children’s laughter.

We had an amazing time with our beautiful guide Khaing in Myanmar – she took us to some amazing restaurants for our lunches and some awesome places we shall never forget. Our memories are set forever. Thank you Khaing.

So, we said farewell to Mandalay which had been an awesome experience but the best of Myanmar was still yet to come.

We hope you enjoy Part one of Myanmar as much as we enjoyed being there. XX