SCOTLAND - PART 2

We stayed an extra night in St Cyrus mainly in the hope of getting some sunshine so we could take a stroll along the beach to this rather fascinating rocky outcrop and a walk through the woodland. Fortunately a short break in this fickle weather combined with a low tide allowed us to do this and shortly after we headed away for Cromarty for a spot of wild camping.
Passing through Johnshaven, a cute little village we had seen on the horizon from St Cyrus, we headed North following the River Dee to Balmoral Castle and Craithie Kirk where the Royal family attend church. Have to say this was in a lovely setting as our photos on facebook show but, whereas Balmoral was very commercialized, the Church was not and we enjoyed our time looking around. The sun was also shining!!!!
Still meandering North we headed for the Highlands. The approach roads were like roller coasters in places but the worst was a very high, acute hump-backed bridge that seemed more suited to our grandsons to do high jumps from on their trailbikes! But we successfully crossed the bridge withour breaking the back of "the camper" and the scenery was beautiful - absolutely breathtaking. This apparently is the "Tourist Scenic Route" which eventually took us to Tomintoul - where we had lunch - over Shlochd Summit - which is obviously the skiing area - around the outskirts of Inverness - through Jemimaville (how cute is that) to Cromarty and a nice big grassy patch overlooking the North Sea, and myriads of parked oil rigs unfortunately, where we would spend the night for free looking round the cute village and enjoying a drink at the pub with the locals during a short dry spell in the weather. That night we were buffetted by strong wind and rain off the North Sea but "the camper" was steady.
Off again next morning we headed for John O'Groats - the furthest point of land in Great Britain/Scotland where the scenery becomes quite bleak and barren. Driving along narrow, one lane roads with passing places every now and then was a little scary but as we passed Dunrobin Castle and watched very clever sheep (if that is at all possible for sheep to be clever that is) running into the lee of a stone wall during another heavy downpour we both thought Scotland was one of the lovliest of places we have visited. The scenery is quite addictive and the contrasts are huge. One moment you are in brilliant sunshine which bounces off lush green hills giving the most awesome light, the next you are plunged into the gloom watching a band of heavy rain and mist strike towards you like a sheet.
Anyway over the Berriedale Braes - steep - through Latheronwheel, Lybster, Hill O'Many Stanes, Wick and Keis we finally arrived at John O'Groats. Not too busy either, not a coach in sight, but that was probably because a gale force wind was a'blowing......but the sun was shining. Just can't have it all ways!!
Doing the usual touristy things wrapped up warm in our puffer jackets - photos under the signpost etc. (we were disappointed there was no John O'Groats pub) we headed for Thurso - the furthest town in Great Britain/Scotland.
Remembering Thurso is pretty emotional really and probably a highlight of any trip made by us but not for the usual reasons. Not for it's beauty - for that it was not - not for its architecture or sunshine or all those touristy things - for that it was not.
The reason was an emotional scene witnessed in a bistro coffee shop between an elderly man and his disabled, almost immobile and unresponsive wife in a wheelchair. We had ducked in there to get out of the imminent rain storm and it went something like this: he wheeled her into the bistro and up to a reserved table where a chair had been thoughfully removed to enable her wheelchair to fit under the table. He kissed her on her cheek when he had made sure she was comfortable and settled, ordered a coffee for her and a pot of tea for himself. He then went to buy his morning paper next door. He has been doing this for 13years and the love emanating from him for her was tangible. Twice a week for morning coffee/tea and every Saturday for lunch. My God to watch this interaction brought tears to my eyes and goosebumps to my body and my heart sang. We paid it forward that day and left but as we came back down the street we saw him patiently spooning her coffee into her mouth and we were both speechless. Love transends all age groups.
Thurso was pretty bland after that although we did see a fishing shop named Harpers and a broken down church and dishevelled cemetery where a mum and her child were picnicking?
Just outside of Thurso is Dounraey where a decommissioned nuclear plant is in the process of being dismantled and taking years to accomplish. Unbelievably awful.
So we decided to head for Scourie through Sutherland Country - could envisage Malcolm Cowie (for those who know him) totally at home here on the wild Highland of Northern Scotland where Betty Hills Store opens 8 days a week???!!! and Farrs Beach is stunning. Skinny bridges and one lane roads with intermittent passing places were the order of the day as we crossed Borgie Glen. "Peat stacking" was happening on the wet, boggy top of the moors where heather was just showing its purple hue and I was fascinated by this activity. Each stack of  3 clarts of up ended peat, spade sized, with one more on the top, looked like fields of small chimney pots. These are left to dry, if ever the rain stops, and used to fuel Scottish fires. The subsequent smell is of heather and is heavenly.
Having a cuppa stop at Tongue we dropped down into Skinett which reminded us of the Marlborough Sounds with it's scenic beauty because, believe it or not, it was sunnyish! A short journey later via Smoo Cave and Sango Sands and we were in Scourie.
Not much here given the bad weather but taking a short walk in a break in the clouds to the harbour we passed a couple sitting in camping chairs beside their car, which was full of many pairs of tramping boots - I kid you not. Swaddled in full winter gear and huddled in front of a little camp fire to keep away the mossies and themselves warm, we got to talking with them. They were so interesting to chat to and interested in us too that we must have chatted for an hour very easily. They suggested we went to the Outer Hebrides but we will see what happens weatherwise first.
Next day we headed towards Ullipool through desolate countryside and once again in pouring rain. We were lucky to catch sight of some wild deer who didn't seem to mind being photographed and the ruins of Ardvreck Castle stood stark against the dark sky. We passed through Loch'n Ver, Knocken Crag and into Ullipool where we scoped the harbour and decided a ferry to the Outer Hebrides was not cost efficient given the weather and we would wait until Skye to reconsider our options.
So after a great breakfast and real coffee we set off again, this time towards Applecross where a very good friend suggested we just had to do the Applecross Pass, wild camping (sort of) in a pub carpark in Aultbea on the way. This pub was amazing and run by two guys from London. During the evening an RIB pulled up on the rocky beach and a selection of people disembarked to enjoy a few drinks "in their local". They had come from two islands away but chatting to one guy he knew all about little Nelson New Zealand. Such is Scottish life?
Leaving Aultbea the next morning, on route to Applecross, we first pass Loch Ewe which was a safe haven for Naval Warships in WW2 and oozes history, travel through Poolewe, Gairloch, Eighe National Park, along the Western Ross Coastal Trail where one lane roads reign for over 39kms, over the top of the Highlands again where, out of nowhere and in the middle of nowhere there arises out of the rain and gloom a small stall selling eggs, hats, scarves and gloves. We need these but on a one lane road there is definitely nowhere to stop with Wilson - safely that is.
Applecross is a small coastal village with a few houses and of course a local pub with a cool atmosphere. The campsite however is expensive and could do with improvement. However, regardless of conditions, there is always a highlight! In this case 6 elderly Harley motorbikers, soaking wet, freezing cold and definitely in need of a hot toddy. With hot drinks dispensed from Kate's kitchen and lots of chat and advice to Gary re our hair razing trip in the morn, (they said we were mad to take our camper over) we were invited for a beer at the pub with them which we politely declined - we were going to experience this amazing pass in the early morning hopefully avoiding excessive traffic.
So this is it!!! Getting up 6am and leaving soon after we hit the Pass. We were driving to Skye that day to visit Lisa and Brian, very musically talented friends we met at La Garoffa, who own a "Hostel" there - but first the Pass! Heavy rain, thick fog, narrow one lane roads and hairpin bends winding up, up and up and then, of course, down, down and down. Our decision to leave early paid off, our only problem was meeting another large motorhome on an uphill hair pin bend which forced us to an uphill STOP. Gaining traction after the stop on a rain slick road caused a few problems but after some wheel spinning and some skillfull driving techniques from Gary we were off again and saw very little traffic until on the downward drive. Stunned Asian drivers were the order of the day - we just hoped they finally made it through without incident.
SKYE - yes we made it in one piece and were welcomed by Lisa and Brian with open arms. It was amazing to see them and their beautiful Hostel which is booked out for the whole season. It is easy to see why though, it is incredible and they work so hard. We only called in for a coffee but stayed a couple of nights in Wilson, all hooked up to electricity and enjoyed spending precious time with them. One of the nicest walks we have taken in Scotland was around the hills and fields and harbour surrounding Skyewalker Hostel although we had to abort the first round because of.......yes, you guessed correctly......RAIN!!!
Thankyou Lisa and Brian for your hospitality, your time, introducing us to Georgia, Dani, Tim, Liam and your amazing grandson Robbeigh. Just remember when Robbiegh is a famous Soccer star, as I am sure he will be, we are all meeting up in his grand house in Spain to celebrate!! He is a star in our eyes already though.
From Skyewalker we drove to Uig in the North of Skye to suss out the ferries to the Hebrides again. Arriving there in the rain we watched the ferry disappear into the mist and a final decision was made to abandon the idea of seeing any more of Scotland so we turned around, drove out of the car park, off Skye and back to the mainland where we wild camped for one night just outside Kyle. This was a great spot but alas many midges which, somehow, made their way into Wilson. No explanation will be given here but the midges don't bite Gary and I woke up with literally dozens of midge bites all over me. The eventful happening in this spot was that 2 stealth-fighters flying very very low suddenly appeared from around the closest hill/mountain, headed straight towards and over us (so low you could see all the underbelly detail) then curled round the next hill/mountain. They were obviously practicing low level valley flying and it was terribly exciting and thrilling to watch. My gosh those planes are huge. This seemed a fitting goodbye from Scotland for us!
Before we leave for Northern Ireland though we spend one more night at a campsite in Duror getting washing done and, as it is still raining, feeding enormous amounts of 50p coins into an inefficient dryer trying to dry it all. Ironically as we leave this dour campsite we turn right instead of left and eventually realise we are back on the road to Glencoe, traversing the same route we got lost on when we first arrived in Scotland - back past 'The Green Welly Shop' of all places. Not only are we driving this road today but we have driven it on two previous occasions as well. We have come full circle me thinks.
One more night free camping in the Long Term car-park at Cairn Ryan harbour. We are booked on the red eye special ferry to Larne, Northern Ireland and must get up at 6am to make sure we don't miss it. We are just not used to early rises any more!!!
So it is Goodbye Scotland. We have enjoyed our stay in this pretty, scenic, dramatic country catching up with friends and touring through the Highlands but.........if only the weather had come to the party too!!!!!!
PS - Only one fluffy cow was sighted throughout the entire journey!!!!!