LEO'S TAVERN - an experience which will stay in our hearts forever. If ever in Southern Ireland this is a must stop!!!!
As I finished on my last blog we toddled down to Leo's at about 2pm. Well, actually we went down to the fair to have a look but most of the stalls had ceased so somehow we managed to find ourselves inside the tavern with a table to sit at as well and a glass of beer and wine in front of us. The whole tavern is full of memorabilia from the days of Enya and Clanard with Gold and Platinum disks on many of the walls. The whole placed buzzed and we sat in our seats meeting the most amazing people all night long. Drinks were bought for us and email addresses swapped. Local, incredibly gifted musicians took the stage amongst the clutter of violins, flutes and mandolins and the music was so great it reached the soul. The biggest voice of all though was Moya - Leo's daughter and Clanard singer. She reeled in everyone and the place was full of joy and happiness. Alas no Irish dancing which we have yet to see but we finally took the 5 minute walk home in the pitch dark at 2 am. New friends, new experiences and new memories to hold.
From Crolly (Croithli) we picked up The Wild Atlantic Way again through Loch 'n Luir, Owenea (this pretty little town has won the Best Town Award for years but alas did not welcome Campervans) slowly wending our way to Frosses and then on to Donegal township where, once again, there were no allowable places for us to park. An officious attendant informed us and 2 other campervans that we were in a car park not a campervan park but he did graciously allow us 10 mins to visit the Tourist Information site. After that all 3 campervans drove out of town which was a big shame as a stop in Donegal itself was planned and the place looked lovely. Never mind but there definitely will not be a next time.
Midges are the curse here and currently, even though I used this magical Avon Skin stuff, I am covered in midge bites, especially on my face, under my eyes and chin, behind my ears and down my neck. They are awful and one does have to become midge savvy being here......however, I have to say I was not!!!!! More about that later.
Our next two days had some sunshine extracts to boast about which was good because clean underwear had become a vital necessity. Gary found a lovely campsite by a lake with easy walking into Ballyshannon and a front loading washing machine - clap hands in glee!!!!! Blog up to date, washing washed and dried and Ballyshannon visited. This old town had so much history. This old town was altered completely in the late 1940s with the building of a dam on the River Erne on it's outskirts. This old town went from a prosperous thriving salmon and log exporting town to a slowly dying decaying place as the river dried up to a narrow canal. This old town lost it's heart and is still suffering. This old town was incredibly sad. This old town had a rather tired old pub, very quiet and not visited by many. Behind the bar sat a leprechaun - no not really but very lifelike anyways. (Touch of Irish here you notice?) Funny thing was this little old leprechaun had a very lovely looking daughter which sort of emphasized the fact that she could be a real leprechaun. Getting to talking, as we do, the subject of "peat stacking" ensued. Well an hour later we left this lovely leprechaun and her pub with a supermarket bag containing..........what? Yep.....2 clods of dried peat. Never to be forgotten that one. Not sure when or where or how they will be useful but they are in the boot and are travelling with us.
Now we are heading where? Well we are driving towards Enniskillen and it is RAINING again. We zip back into Northern Ireland to visit the Marble Arch Caves. Enniskillen is just another township surrounded by lakes - think we might be all laked out - so we give that a swerve and head for the caves. For those who have seen the pics on Facebook you will have seen they were so well worth a visit. The caves have not been exploited or commercialised, they are very aux naturelle. A short boat ride in the depths of the cave make the journey through very real. This was absolutely awesome. The caves are underneath a Peat Bog within a Global Geo Park and, once again, so much history. Google them and you can find out a lot more.
Our next night we free camped which is so easy to do in this van, just on the Northern/Southern border outside of Belcoo and next morning headed for Ballina via Sligo - in the RAIN again! Sligo turned out to be an industrial type city so we circumnavigated that and did a wee detour back into the countryside, through farmland with cottages dotted here and there; through Cloonascoffagh and Knockback and into County Mayo.
What we are noticing here in Eire is that modern houses are big and spacious and are on large sections but, what is different is the clinical nature of the houses and sections - just vast amounts of grass and tarmac or vast amounts of grass and gravel - not a flower, bush or tree in sight. Very beautifully kept with emerald green, manicured grass but......looking more like an office than a home. For what it is worth the sterility is striking for us.
Managed to find a park in Ballina so had a stroll around. Saw a "phone hospital" and a "shoe hospital" and Gary bought a pair of nice fitting jeans and I posted a letter to the Insurance Company claiming a whopping $390 for a 10 minute consult and an xray of my ankle.
And we headed on noticing, sadly, so many smaller villages dying with boarded up shops and closed taverns, followed a funeral procession in Ballycastle (that name again) stopping at the Neolithic Centre at the top of a huge cliff - the cliff was awesome but the centre not so much. Good for a loo stop though!!!
Talking of the funeral people, many in this case, walk behind the hearse as it leaves the church for the cemetery but not only that all deaths throughout Ireland are announced on the radio many times a day after the news. Strange but also nice.
Travelling on and deciding to take a detour shown as a designated view point to Doranspoint Harbour we were thrown onto grassy single lane tracks which were once again quite scary with a larger van. However we managed it and arrived at our destination. A muddy jetty with a wreck of a boat sucking into the silty bottom; a couple of abandoned cars and an uninhabited house. Pretty but......we soon hightailed it out of there. The return journey itself an experience not to be missed!!!!! The Irish have a knack of making something out of nothing!!!!
We free camped that night just outside of Claggan - looked the ideal spot - by a lake, quiet and flat. We were happy. People came and went and a camper momentarily parked behind us and then swiftly took off......why? All was to be revealed when I opened the camper door to take a picture of the most glorious sunset and became smothered, along with my phone, in midges. The camper within seconds was full of them. The next 2hours was spent trying to eradicate them from the van which was partially successful. Next morning however I was covered in bites, as mentioned earlier, everywhere a mountain of bites. Cathie 30 odd --- Gary 0. Not one bite for Gary.......just shows how acidy his blood must be!!!!! Getting up next morning the camper was surrounded by clouds of midges, even coming in through the vents. Yep that camper that left certainly knew more than we did but boy.... that was a very fast learning curve on our part.
Next day we went in search of the Sky Loop - a detour from the Wild Atlantic Way and apparently quite a beautiful journey. So, on to Mulranny which sported a cautionary road sign stating there were "wankers on the road" (true, cross my heart), through Newport and on to Westport. Westport in its self is a very pretty little town and we would have loved to have stopped but unfortunately there was no parking provision for camper vans which was a shame again......so we toodled on.
The drive between Westport and Connemara, County Galway was beautiful and especially pretty. We passed the Lost Valley but were not game to wander too off piste after our last experience. Passing through Leenane and Kilarry Harbour - where there were huge amounts of mussel lines - noticing Kylemore Abbey tucked way into the bush we turned onto the Sky Loop at Letterfrack. Mmmm - Shades of Scotland here!!!! It was three quarters of an hour of mind blowing road. Garys retort: "these roads are like one big fun park. Better than the helter skelter at Dreamworld!!!!!" How our left hand mirror is still in place I will never know.
We exited the "fun park" at Clifden and drove directly to Doolin. Neither of us being fond of oysters we drove on through Clarinbridge, their home in Ireland, to a very full, busy campsite in Doolin. Close to the Cliffs of Mohar, local Irish pubs and a rather lovely harbour we settled down to enjoy the Irish way for 3 full nights.
And we did enjoy but check the next blog for the update of Doolin. If it sounds great namewise, it usually is.
Enjoy
Sunday, 31 July 2016
Tuesday, 19 July 2016
IRELAND - ULSTER
Our ferry crossing from Cairn Ryan to Larne was surprisingly good as the weather was a little more agreeable and the sea calmish. It was a 2 hour crossing where we managed to get a free coffee each, which was lovely coffee incidentally, as their eft pos machine would not work.
Arriving in Larne early morning we headed for a campsite that Gary had chosen only to find it full. This seemed to be the norm in this neck of the woods at a weekend so we headed away from the coast to the interior of Northern Ireland where we hoped it would be quieter in the countryside. This entailed travelling round, or in our case through, Belfast as we did get a little lost. Slightly stressful but we finally found a campsite with a free space for us but, sorry to say, once again it was raining!!!!!! Making the most of a bad situation we donned our coats, hats, gloves, boots and walked into the local village of Killyleagh and fell into the local Irish tavern for a welcome pint and a wine. This was where we were lucky enough to see the Women's Wimbledon final accompanied by people chatting away to us in a language that was impossible to understand. At one stage I had to ask if they were speaking English and they assured me they were. The accent is so strong and the speech so rapid fire by the time you have understood the first word the sentence is finished!!!! We met an amazing guy here who made his living selling tips on bets for anything and everything. He makes loads of money as he has hundreds of people who pay him to tell them how to bet. How bizarre is that?
So we had a few drinks, a chat and a plate of chips and braved the wet walk home making a decision to head towards the Giants Causeway the following day. We were a little down with the way things were going with this trip and definitely needed some cheering up. This was not to be as the weather was just getting worse and worse and now very cold too. We holed up in a cheerless, yappy-dog infested, Portrush campsite for 2 days, never leaving the campervan and feeling very sorry for ourselves. The only light relief was Gary trying to open the barrier arm by holding the plastic disc to the windscreen whilst trying to go "in" the "out" gate. I have to admit that this hilarious scene could probably have been partially my fault as a few instructions seemed to be lost in translation. A very charming man finally saw through our embarrassment and kindly opened the gate to allow us into the campsite. The plastic disc was a scanner and was for the other "proper "in" gate".
Determined to improve the situation the following day we headed for Ballycastle to a small private campsite Gary had found perched right on the edge of the ocean. This drive was to take us along the northern coastline, where we finally saw Portrush Harbour and town, through Bushmills -where Bushmills famous whisky is distilled and where we narrowly missed a traditional Orange Parade - and on to the Giants Causeway. This area of coastline, called the Causeway Coast, is absolutely stunning and especially as we were seeing it through smidgens of sun and the Giants Causeway was all we expected and more. The more was Keith, the guide on our tour, who was hilarious with his simple Irish humour. We can understand how and why Mrs Brown is so popular and successful having spent an hour with Keith. Anyway, the Giants Causeway leaves you bewildered and stunned. Nature - how has she managed to form perfect hexagonal interlocking columns of stone of different heights so perfectly? Irish folklore has us believe that the Giant Finn McCool made his home here and created the Causeway but what a wonderful legacy millions of years of intense volcanic and geological activity has left behind for us to admire. This was a thoroughly enjoyable experience and the rain only started again as we got back to our camper. Grateful.
Having passed the ruins of Bunsevbrick Castle our next stop was the Rope Bridge at Carrick-A-Rede. This rope bridge was used by the Salmon Farmers who crossed the open, latticed bridge in order to get to Carrick Island to fish. It is high and spans a 20metre wide chasm and is awesome. Parking our camper in a quarry, which in itself was quite lovely, we took photos of the bridge but decided we could cross many a rope bridge in New Zealand for free. The rope bridge has also been updated and is no longer open and as exhilarating to cross. It is also expensive.
So on we went to Ballycastle where we were held up for maybe an hour outside of the town for their Orange Parade. This is July 12th and is a public holiday in Northern Ireland where Orange Parades are the order of the day throughout the Country. The streets in Ballycastle are narrow and the whole town was totally congested even more so when the parade had finished. We had a few hairy moments getting through and travelled along many a footpath on two wheels but a thumbs up from the local Guarda meant Gary was doing an OK job. It is one thing being big - it makes you feel safer - but there is definitely more to hit and damage. Took us a long while to get through but we were very happy with this small campsite of Micky and Marie's. They had recently travelled to NZ so they had a lot to talk about. We stayed there 4 nights in the end looking over the ocean and Rathlin Island - walking along the beach and into Ballycastle. Strolling over the Golf Course and into the hills to find Marconi's cottage where he was based whilst trialing his new method of communication.
Enjoying our stay here very much and the weather seemingly about to improve Gary sussed out the next perfect spot - Crolly or Croithli. We were so excited about what we expected to find here and were very worried it might not meet expectations. Remember we were feeling very negative just a few days ago but Ballycastle managed to turn us around. No way did we wish to return to the dark days.
Firstly we went to see the Dark Hedges near Ballymoney where we managed to capture some amazing photos. In reality it is awesome to look down the road but I am pleased with the illusion the photos give. Almost exactly as on the Game of Thrones which of course made this particular stretch of road world famous.
Driving through Coleraine, BallyKelly and Londonderry, a sprawling, walled city that we took a glimpse at but decided not to stop at, we instead crossed into Donegal County, Southern Ireland losing all our cellphone coverage and data!!!!!!. We are now working in Euros as well rather than GBP.
The difference is immediate both in landscape, and weather. Stopping at Letterkenny to pick up some Euros we head into Glenveagh National Park, over the moors - so much like the Highlands of Scotland - past Gartan Mountain and pick up the Wild Atlantic Way. Peat cutting and stacking is more prevalent here than on the Scottish moors and great swarths of peat bog have been cut into turfs and lie ready for collection when dry. The peat bog rises again every 7 years and can be cut again after 12 years and each family has its own "peat bog patch". Fascinating!
WE HAVE SUNSHINE as we roll into Crolly where our road to the campsite is blocked because the local people are having a fair day of some sorts. Music is playing, children are dancing, there is a talent competition, stalls, food, small animals, horse and cart rides and there is Leo's tavern - home to Enya and Clannard. Leo, their father, died 3 weeks ago aged 93years but this is the place we have come to see. Eventually we get through the throng, register at Sleepy Hollow - our bijou, fabulous campsite of only 6 sites - and hastily walk the 3minute walk back to the festivities.
12 hours later, at 2am, we leave Leo's Tavern.
But more about that later - enjoy.
Arriving in Larne early morning we headed for a campsite that Gary had chosen only to find it full. This seemed to be the norm in this neck of the woods at a weekend so we headed away from the coast to the interior of Northern Ireland where we hoped it would be quieter in the countryside. This entailed travelling round, or in our case through, Belfast as we did get a little lost. Slightly stressful but we finally found a campsite with a free space for us but, sorry to say, once again it was raining!!!!!! Making the most of a bad situation we donned our coats, hats, gloves, boots and walked into the local village of Killyleagh and fell into the local Irish tavern for a welcome pint and a wine. This was where we were lucky enough to see the Women's Wimbledon final accompanied by people chatting away to us in a language that was impossible to understand. At one stage I had to ask if they were speaking English and they assured me they were. The accent is so strong and the speech so rapid fire by the time you have understood the first word the sentence is finished!!!! We met an amazing guy here who made his living selling tips on bets for anything and everything. He makes loads of money as he has hundreds of people who pay him to tell them how to bet. How bizarre is that?
So we had a few drinks, a chat and a plate of chips and braved the wet walk home making a decision to head towards the Giants Causeway the following day. We were a little down with the way things were going with this trip and definitely needed some cheering up. This was not to be as the weather was just getting worse and worse and now very cold too. We holed up in a cheerless, yappy-dog infested, Portrush campsite for 2 days, never leaving the campervan and feeling very sorry for ourselves. The only light relief was Gary trying to open the barrier arm by holding the plastic disc to the windscreen whilst trying to go "in" the "out" gate. I have to admit that this hilarious scene could probably have been partially my fault as a few instructions seemed to be lost in translation. A very charming man finally saw through our embarrassment and kindly opened the gate to allow us into the campsite. The plastic disc was a scanner and was for the other "proper "in" gate".
Determined to improve the situation the following day we headed for Ballycastle to a small private campsite Gary had found perched right on the edge of the ocean. This drive was to take us along the northern coastline, where we finally saw Portrush Harbour and town, through Bushmills -where Bushmills famous whisky is distilled and where we narrowly missed a traditional Orange Parade - and on to the Giants Causeway. This area of coastline, called the Causeway Coast, is absolutely stunning and especially as we were seeing it through smidgens of sun and the Giants Causeway was all we expected and more. The more was Keith, the guide on our tour, who was hilarious with his simple Irish humour. We can understand how and why Mrs Brown is so popular and successful having spent an hour with Keith. Anyway, the Giants Causeway leaves you bewildered and stunned. Nature - how has she managed to form perfect hexagonal interlocking columns of stone of different heights so perfectly? Irish folklore has us believe that the Giant Finn McCool made his home here and created the Causeway but what a wonderful legacy millions of years of intense volcanic and geological activity has left behind for us to admire. This was a thoroughly enjoyable experience and the rain only started again as we got back to our camper. Grateful.
Having passed the ruins of Bunsevbrick Castle our next stop was the Rope Bridge at Carrick-A-Rede. This rope bridge was used by the Salmon Farmers who crossed the open, latticed bridge in order to get to Carrick Island to fish. It is high and spans a 20metre wide chasm and is awesome. Parking our camper in a quarry, which in itself was quite lovely, we took photos of the bridge but decided we could cross many a rope bridge in New Zealand for free. The rope bridge has also been updated and is no longer open and as exhilarating to cross. It is also expensive.
So on we went to Ballycastle where we were held up for maybe an hour outside of the town for their Orange Parade. This is July 12th and is a public holiday in Northern Ireland where Orange Parades are the order of the day throughout the Country. The streets in Ballycastle are narrow and the whole town was totally congested even more so when the parade had finished. We had a few hairy moments getting through and travelled along many a footpath on two wheels but a thumbs up from the local Guarda meant Gary was doing an OK job. It is one thing being big - it makes you feel safer - but there is definitely more to hit and damage. Took us a long while to get through but we were very happy with this small campsite of Micky and Marie's. They had recently travelled to NZ so they had a lot to talk about. We stayed there 4 nights in the end looking over the ocean and Rathlin Island - walking along the beach and into Ballycastle. Strolling over the Golf Course and into the hills to find Marconi's cottage where he was based whilst trialing his new method of communication.
Enjoying our stay here very much and the weather seemingly about to improve Gary sussed out the next perfect spot - Crolly or Croithli. We were so excited about what we expected to find here and were very worried it might not meet expectations. Remember we were feeling very negative just a few days ago but Ballycastle managed to turn us around. No way did we wish to return to the dark days.
Firstly we went to see the Dark Hedges near Ballymoney where we managed to capture some amazing photos. In reality it is awesome to look down the road but I am pleased with the illusion the photos give. Almost exactly as on the Game of Thrones which of course made this particular stretch of road world famous.
Driving through Coleraine, BallyKelly and Londonderry, a sprawling, walled city that we took a glimpse at but decided not to stop at, we instead crossed into Donegal County, Southern Ireland losing all our cellphone coverage and data!!!!!!. We are now working in Euros as well rather than GBP.
The difference is immediate both in landscape, and weather. Stopping at Letterkenny to pick up some Euros we head into Glenveagh National Park, over the moors - so much like the Highlands of Scotland - past Gartan Mountain and pick up the Wild Atlantic Way. Peat cutting and stacking is more prevalent here than on the Scottish moors and great swarths of peat bog have been cut into turfs and lie ready for collection when dry. The peat bog rises again every 7 years and can be cut again after 12 years and each family has its own "peat bog patch". Fascinating!
WE HAVE SUNSHINE as we roll into Crolly where our road to the campsite is blocked because the local people are having a fair day of some sorts. Music is playing, children are dancing, there is a talent competition, stalls, food, small animals, horse and cart rides and there is Leo's tavern - home to Enya and Clannard. Leo, their father, died 3 weeks ago aged 93years but this is the place we have come to see. Eventually we get through the throng, register at Sleepy Hollow - our bijou, fabulous campsite of only 6 sites - and hastily walk the 3minute walk back to the festivities.
12 hours later, at 2am, we leave Leo's Tavern.
But more about that later - enjoy.
Monday, 11 July 2016
SCOTLAND - PART 2
We stayed an extra night in St Cyrus mainly in the hope of getting some sunshine so we could take a stroll along the beach to this rather fascinating rocky outcrop and a walk through the woodland. Fortunately a short break in this fickle weather combined with a low tide allowed us to do this and shortly after we headed away for Cromarty for a spot of wild camping.
Passing through Johnshaven, a cute little village we had seen on the horizon from St Cyrus, we headed North following the River Dee to Balmoral Castle and Craithie Kirk where the Royal family attend church. Have to say this was in a lovely setting as our photos on facebook show but, whereas Balmoral was very commercialized, the Church was not and we enjoyed our time looking around. The sun was also shining!!!!
Still meandering North we headed for the Highlands. The approach roads were like roller coasters in places but the worst was a very high, acute hump-backed bridge that seemed more suited to our grandsons to do high jumps from on their trailbikes! But we successfully crossed the bridge withour breaking the back of "the camper" and the scenery was beautiful - absolutely breathtaking. This apparently is the "Tourist Scenic Route" which eventually took us to Tomintoul - where we had lunch - over Shlochd Summit - which is obviously the skiing area - around the outskirts of Inverness - through Jemimaville (how cute is that) to Cromarty and a nice big grassy patch overlooking the North Sea, and myriads of parked oil rigs unfortunately, where we would spend the night for free looking round the cute village and enjoying a drink at the pub with the locals during a short dry spell in the weather. That night we were buffetted by strong wind and rain off the North Sea but "the camper" was steady.
Off again next morning we headed for John O'Groats - the furthest point of land in Great Britain/Scotland where the scenery becomes quite bleak and barren. Driving along narrow, one lane roads with passing places every now and then was a little scary but as we passed Dunrobin Castle and watched very clever sheep (if that is at all possible for sheep to be clever that is) running into the lee of a stone wall during another heavy downpour we both thought Scotland was one of the lovliest of places we have visited. The scenery is quite addictive and the contrasts are huge. One moment you are in brilliant sunshine which bounces off lush green hills giving the most awesome light, the next you are plunged into the gloom watching a band of heavy rain and mist strike towards you like a sheet.
Anyway over the Berriedale Braes - steep - through Latheronwheel, Lybster, Hill O'Many Stanes, Wick and Keis we finally arrived at John O'Groats. Not too busy either, not a coach in sight, but that was probably because a gale force wind was a'blowing......but the sun was shining. Just can't have it all ways!!
Doing the usual touristy things wrapped up warm in our puffer jackets - photos under the signpost etc. (we were disappointed there was no John O'Groats pub) we headed for Thurso - the furthest town in Great Britain/Scotland.
Remembering Thurso is pretty emotional really and probably a highlight of any trip made by us but not for the usual reasons. Not for it's beauty - for that it was not - not for its architecture or sunshine or all those touristy things - for that it was not.
The reason was an emotional scene witnessed in a bistro coffee shop between an elderly man and his disabled, almost immobile and unresponsive wife in a wheelchair. We had ducked in there to get out of the imminent rain storm and it went something like this: he wheeled her into the bistro and up to a reserved table where a chair had been thoughfully removed to enable her wheelchair to fit under the table. He kissed her on her cheek when he had made sure she was comfortable and settled, ordered a coffee for her and a pot of tea for himself. He then went to buy his morning paper next door. He has been doing this for 13years and the love emanating from him for her was tangible. Twice a week for morning coffee/tea and every Saturday for lunch. My God to watch this interaction brought tears to my eyes and goosebumps to my body and my heart sang. We paid it forward that day and left but as we came back down the street we saw him patiently spooning her coffee into her mouth and we were both speechless. Love transends all age groups.
Thurso was pretty bland after that although we did see a fishing shop named Harpers and a broken down church and dishevelled cemetery where a mum and her child were picnicking?
Just outside of Thurso is Dounraey where a decommissioned nuclear plant is in the process of being dismantled and taking years to accomplish. Unbelievably awful.
So we decided to head for Scourie through Sutherland Country - could envisage Malcolm Cowie (for those who know him) totally at home here on the wild Highland of Northern Scotland where Betty Hills Store opens 8 days a week???!!! and Farrs Beach is stunning. Skinny bridges and one lane roads with intermittent passing places were the order of the day as we crossed Borgie Glen. "Peat stacking" was happening on the wet, boggy top of the moors where heather was just showing its purple hue and I was fascinated by this activity. Each stack of 3 clarts of up ended peat, spade sized, with one more on the top, looked like fields of small chimney pots. These are left to dry, if ever the rain stops, and used to fuel Scottish fires. The subsequent smell is of heather and is heavenly.
Having a cuppa stop at Tongue we dropped down into Skinett which reminded us of the Marlborough Sounds with it's scenic beauty because, believe it or not, it was sunnyish! A short journey later via Smoo Cave and Sango Sands and we were in Scourie.
Not much here given the bad weather but taking a short walk in a break in the clouds to the harbour we passed a couple sitting in camping chairs beside their car, which was full of many pairs of tramping boots - I kid you not. Swaddled in full winter gear and huddled in front of a little camp fire to keep away the mossies and themselves warm, we got to talking with them. They were so interesting to chat to and interested in us too that we must have chatted for an hour very easily. They suggested we went to the Outer Hebrides but we will see what happens weatherwise first.
Next day we headed towards Ullipool through desolate countryside and once again in pouring rain. We were lucky to catch sight of some wild deer who didn't seem to mind being photographed and the ruins of Ardvreck Castle stood stark against the dark sky. We passed through Loch'n Ver, Knocken Crag and into Ullipool where we scoped the harbour and decided a ferry to the Outer Hebrides was not cost efficient given the weather and we would wait until Skye to reconsider our options.
So after a great breakfast and real coffee we set off again, this time towards Applecross where a very good friend suggested we just had to do the Applecross Pass, wild camping (sort of) in a pub carpark in Aultbea on the way. This pub was amazing and run by two guys from London. During the evening an RIB pulled up on the rocky beach and a selection of people disembarked to enjoy a few drinks "in their local". They had come from two islands away but chatting to one guy he knew all about little Nelson New Zealand. Such is Scottish life?
Leaving Aultbea the next morning, on route to Applecross, we first pass Loch Ewe which was a safe haven for Naval Warships in WW2 and oozes history, travel through Poolewe, Gairloch, Eighe National Park, along the Western Ross Coastal Trail where one lane roads reign for over 39kms, over the top of the Highlands again where, out of nowhere and in the middle of nowhere there arises out of the rain and gloom a small stall selling eggs, hats, scarves and gloves. We need these but on a one lane road there is definitely nowhere to stop with Wilson - safely that is.
Applecross is a small coastal village with a few houses and of course a local pub with a cool atmosphere. The campsite however is expensive and could do with improvement. However, regardless of conditions, there is always a highlight! In this case 6 elderly Harley motorbikers, soaking wet, freezing cold and definitely in need of a hot toddy. With hot drinks dispensed from Kate's kitchen and lots of chat and advice to Gary re our hair razing trip in the morn, (they said we were mad to take our camper over) we were invited for a beer at the pub with them which we politely declined - we were going to experience this amazing pass in the early morning hopefully avoiding excessive traffic.
So this is it!!! Getting up 6am and leaving soon after we hit the Pass. We were driving to Skye that day to visit Lisa and Brian, very musically talented friends we met at La Garoffa, who own a "Hostel" there - but first the Pass! Heavy rain, thick fog, narrow one lane roads and hairpin bends winding up, up and up and then, of course, down, down and down. Our decision to leave early paid off, our only problem was meeting another large motorhome on an uphill hair pin bend which forced us to an uphill STOP. Gaining traction after the stop on a rain slick road caused a few problems but after some wheel spinning and some skillfull driving techniques from Gary we were off again and saw very little traffic until on the downward drive. Stunned Asian drivers were the order of the day - we just hoped they finally made it through without incident.
SKYE - yes we made it in one piece and were welcomed by Lisa and Brian with open arms. It was amazing to see them and their beautiful Hostel which is booked out for the whole season. It is easy to see why though, it is incredible and they work so hard. We only called in for a coffee but stayed a couple of nights in Wilson, all hooked up to electricity and enjoyed spending precious time with them. One of the nicest walks we have taken in Scotland was around the hills and fields and harbour surrounding Skyewalker Hostel although we had to abort the first round because of.......yes, you guessed correctly......RAIN!!!
Thankyou Lisa and Brian for your hospitality, your time, introducing us to Georgia, Dani, Tim, Liam and your amazing grandson Robbeigh. Just remember when Robbiegh is a famous Soccer star, as I am sure he will be, we are all meeting up in his grand house in Spain to celebrate!! He is a star in our eyes already though.
From Skyewalker we drove to Uig in the North of Skye to suss out the ferries to the Hebrides again. Arriving there in the rain we watched the ferry disappear into the mist and a final decision was made to abandon the idea of seeing any more of Scotland so we turned around, drove out of the car park, off Skye and back to the mainland where we wild camped for one night just outside Kyle. This was a great spot but alas many midges which, somehow, made their way into Wilson. No explanation will be given here but the midges don't bite Gary and I woke up with literally dozens of midge bites all over me. The eventful happening in this spot was that 2 stealth-fighters flying very very low suddenly appeared from around the closest hill/mountain, headed straight towards and over us (so low you could see all the underbelly detail) then curled round the next hill/mountain. They were obviously practicing low level valley flying and it was terribly exciting and thrilling to watch. My gosh those planes are huge. This seemed a fitting goodbye from Scotland for us!
Before we leave for Northern Ireland though we spend one more night at a campsite in Duror getting washing done and, as it is still raining, feeding enormous amounts of 50p coins into an inefficient dryer trying to dry it all. Ironically as we leave this dour campsite we turn right instead of left and eventually realise we are back on the road to Glencoe, traversing the same route we got lost on when we first arrived in Scotland - back past 'The Green Welly Shop' of all places. Not only are we driving this road today but we have driven it on two previous occasions as well. We have come full circle me thinks.
One more night free camping in the Long Term car-park at Cairn Ryan harbour. We are booked on the red eye special ferry to Larne, Northern Ireland and must get up at 6am to make sure we don't miss it. We are just not used to early rises any more!!!
So it is Goodbye Scotland. We have enjoyed our stay in this pretty, scenic, dramatic country catching up with friends and touring through the Highlands but.........if only the weather had come to the party too!!!!!!
PS - Only one fluffy cow was sighted throughout the entire journey!!!!!
Passing through Johnshaven, a cute little village we had seen on the horizon from St Cyrus, we headed North following the River Dee to Balmoral Castle and Craithie Kirk where the Royal family attend church. Have to say this was in a lovely setting as our photos on facebook show but, whereas Balmoral was very commercialized, the Church was not and we enjoyed our time looking around. The sun was also shining!!!!
Still meandering North we headed for the Highlands. The approach roads were like roller coasters in places but the worst was a very high, acute hump-backed bridge that seemed more suited to our grandsons to do high jumps from on their trailbikes! But we successfully crossed the bridge withour breaking the back of "the camper" and the scenery was beautiful - absolutely breathtaking. This apparently is the "Tourist Scenic Route" which eventually took us to Tomintoul - where we had lunch - over Shlochd Summit - which is obviously the skiing area - around the outskirts of Inverness - through Jemimaville (how cute is that) to Cromarty and a nice big grassy patch overlooking the North Sea, and myriads of parked oil rigs unfortunately, where we would spend the night for free looking round the cute village and enjoying a drink at the pub with the locals during a short dry spell in the weather. That night we were buffetted by strong wind and rain off the North Sea but "the camper" was steady.
Off again next morning we headed for John O'Groats - the furthest point of land in Great Britain/Scotland where the scenery becomes quite bleak and barren. Driving along narrow, one lane roads with passing places every now and then was a little scary but as we passed Dunrobin Castle and watched very clever sheep (if that is at all possible for sheep to be clever that is) running into the lee of a stone wall during another heavy downpour we both thought Scotland was one of the lovliest of places we have visited. The scenery is quite addictive and the contrasts are huge. One moment you are in brilliant sunshine which bounces off lush green hills giving the most awesome light, the next you are plunged into the gloom watching a band of heavy rain and mist strike towards you like a sheet.
Anyway over the Berriedale Braes - steep - through Latheronwheel, Lybster, Hill O'Many Stanes, Wick and Keis we finally arrived at John O'Groats. Not too busy either, not a coach in sight, but that was probably because a gale force wind was a'blowing......but the sun was shining. Just can't have it all ways!!
Doing the usual touristy things wrapped up warm in our puffer jackets - photos under the signpost etc. (we were disappointed there was no John O'Groats pub) we headed for Thurso - the furthest town in Great Britain/Scotland.
Remembering Thurso is pretty emotional really and probably a highlight of any trip made by us but not for the usual reasons. Not for it's beauty - for that it was not - not for its architecture or sunshine or all those touristy things - for that it was not.
The reason was an emotional scene witnessed in a bistro coffee shop between an elderly man and his disabled, almost immobile and unresponsive wife in a wheelchair. We had ducked in there to get out of the imminent rain storm and it went something like this: he wheeled her into the bistro and up to a reserved table where a chair had been thoughfully removed to enable her wheelchair to fit under the table. He kissed her on her cheek when he had made sure she was comfortable and settled, ordered a coffee for her and a pot of tea for himself. He then went to buy his morning paper next door. He has been doing this for 13years and the love emanating from him for her was tangible. Twice a week for morning coffee/tea and every Saturday for lunch. My God to watch this interaction brought tears to my eyes and goosebumps to my body and my heart sang. We paid it forward that day and left but as we came back down the street we saw him patiently spooning her coffee into her mouth and we were both speechless. Love transends all age groups.
Thurso was pretty bland after that although we did see a fishing shop named Harpers and a broken down church and dishevelled cemetery where a mum and her child were picnicking?
Just outside of Thurso is Dounraey where a decommissioned nuclear plant is in the process of being dismantled and taking years to accomplish. Unbelievably awful.
So we decided to head for Scourie through Sutherland Country - could envisage Malcolm Cowie (for those who know him) totally at home here on the wild Highland of Northern Scotland where Betty Hills Store opens 8 days a week???!!! and Farrs Beach is stunning. Skinny bridges and one lane roads with intermittent passing places were the order of the day as we crossed Borgie Glen. "Peat stacking" was happening on the wet, boggy top of the moors where heather was just showing its purple hue and I was fascinated by this activity. Each stack of 3 clarts of up ended peat, spade sized, with one more on the top, looked like fields of small chimney pots. These are left to dry, if ever the rain stops, and used to fuel Scottish fires. The subsequent smell is of heather and is heavenly.
Having a cuppa stop at Tongue we dropped down into Skinett which reminded us of the Marlborough Sounds with it's scenic beauty because, believe it or not, it was sunnyish! A short journey later via Smoo Cave and Sango Sands and we were in Scourie.
Not much here given the bad weather but taking a short walk in a break in the clouds to the harbour we passed a couple sitting in camping chairs beside their car, which was full of many pairs of tramping boots - I kid you not. Swaddled in full winter gear and huddled in front of a little camp fire to keep away the mossies and themselves warm, we got to talking with them. They were so interesting to chat to and interested in us too that we must have chatted for an hour very easily. They suggested we went to the Outer Hebrides but we will see what happens weatherwise first.
Next day we headed towards Ullipool through desolate countryside and once again in pouring rain. We were lucky to catch sight of some wild deer who didn't seem to mind being photographed and the ruins of Ardvreck Castle stood stark against the dark sky. We passed through Loch'n Ver, Knocken Crag and into Ullipool where we scoped the harbour and decided a ferry to the Outer Hebrides was not cost efficient given the weather and we would wait until Skye to reconsider our options.
So after a great breakfast and real coffee we set off again, this time towards Applecross where a very good friend suggested we just had to do the Applecross Pass, wild camping (sort of) in a pub carpark in Aultbea on the way. This pub was amazing and run by two guys from London. During the evening an RIB pulled up on the rocky beach and a selection of people disembarked to enjoy a few drinks "in their local". They had come from two islands away but chatting to one guy he knew all about little Nelson New Zealand. Such is Scottish life?
Leaving Aultbea the next morning, on route to Applecross, we first pass Loch Ewe which was a safe haven for Naval Warships in WW2 and oozes history, travel through Poolewe, Gairloch, Eighe National Park, along the Western Ross Coastal Trail where one lane roads reign for over 39kms, over the top of the Highlands again where, out of nowhere and in the middle of nowhere there arises out of the rain and gloom a small stall selling eggs, hats, scarves and gloves. We need these but on a one lane road there is definitely nowhere to stop with Wilson - safely that is.
Applecross is a small coastal village with a few houses and of course a local pub with a cool atmosphere. The campsite however is expensive and could do with improvement. However, regardless of conditions, there is always a highlight! In this case 6 elderly Harley motorbikers, soaking wet, freezing cold and definitely in need of a hot toddy. With hot drinks dispensed from Kate's kitchen and lots of chat and advice to Gary re our hair razing trip in the morn, (they said we were mad to take our camper over) we were invited for a beer at the pub with them which we politely declined - we were going to experience this amazing pass in the early morning hopefully avoiding excessive traffic.
So this is it!!! Getting up 6am and leaving soon after we hit the Pass. We were driving to Skye that day to visit Lisa and Brian, very musically talented friends we met at La Garoffa, who own a "Hostel" there - but first the Pass! Heavy rain, thick fog, narrow one lane roads and hairpin bends winding up, up and up and then, of course, down, down and down. Our decision to leave early paid off, our only problem was meeting another large motorhome on an uphill hair pin bend which forced us to an uphill STOP. Gaining traction after the stop on a rain slick road caused a few problems but after some wheel spinning and some skillfull driving techniques from Gary we were off again and saw very little traffic until on the downward drive. Stunned Asian drivers were the order of the day - we just hoped they finally made it through without incident.
SKYE - yes we made it in one piece and were welcomed by Lisa and Brian with open arms. It was amazing to see them and their beautiful Hostel which is booked out for the whole season. It is easy to see why though, it is incredible and they work so hard. We only called in for a coffee but stayed a couple of nights in Wilson, all hooked up to electricity and enjoyed spending precious time with them. One of the nicest walks we have taken in Scotland was around the hills and fields and harbour surrounding Skyewalker Hostel although we had to abort the first round because of.......yes, you guessed correctly......RAIN!!!
Thankyou Lisa and Brian for your hospitality, your time, introducing us to Georgia, Dani, Tim, Liam and your amazing grandson Robbeigh. Just remember when Robbiegh is a famous Soccer star, as I am sure he will be, we are all meeting up in his grand house in Spain to celebrate!! He is a star in our eyes already though.
From Skyewalker we drove to Uig in the North of Skye to suss out the ferries to the Hebrides again. Arriving there in the rain we watched the ferry disappear into the mist and a final decision was made to abandon the idea of seeing any more of Scotland so we turned around, drove out of the car park, off Skye and back to the mainland where we wild camped for one night just outside Kyle. This was a great spot but alas many midges which, somehow, made their way into Wilson. No explanation will be given here but the midges don't bite Gary and I woke up with literally dozens of midge bites all over me. The eventful happening in this spot was that 2 stealth-fighters flying very very low suddenly appeared from around the closest hill/mountain, headed straight towards and over us (so low you could see all the underbelly detail) then curled round the next hill/mountain. They were obviously practicing low level valley flying and it was terribly exciting and thrilling to watch. My gosh those planes are huge. This seemed a fitting goodbye from Scotland for us!
Before we leave for Northern Ireland though we spend one more night at a campsite in Duror getting washing done and, as it is still raining, feeding enormous amounts of 50p coins into an inefficient dryer trying to dry it all. Ironically as we leave this dour campsite we turn right instead of left and eventually realise we are back on the road to Glencoe, traversing the same route we got lost on when we first arrived in Scotland - back past 'The Green Welly Shop' of all places. Not only are we driving this road today but we have driven it on two previous occasions as well. We have come full circle me thinks.
One more night free camping in the Long Term car-park at Cairn Ryan harbour. We are booked on the red eye special ferry to Larne, Northern Ireland and must get up at 6am to make sure we don't miss it. We are just not used to early rises any more!!!
So it is Goodbye Scotland. We have enjoyed our stay in this pretty, scenic, dramatic country catching up with friends and touring through the Highlands but.........if only the weather had come to the party too!!!!!!
PS - Only one fluffy cow was sighted throughout the entire journey!!!!!
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