Scandinavia 1

Our trip through Scandinavia is almost at an end and we have enjoyed every moment of it. We have covered thousands of kilometres, mainly in Sweden and Norway, and have experienced plenty. Weatherwise we have been lucky except in Norway but for a country that has 270 rainy days a year then it has not been so bad. We have met some fabulous people along the way, young and older, but only 1 other NZ couple from Auckland. So let's begin.

DENMARK.

Leaving Amsterdam we crossed through the top of Germany (Hi everyone) and into Denmark. Our main drive here was to get to Copenhagen for Bodil and Peter's eldest daughters 4th birthday and after our first night of freedom camping - in a layby tucked behind a bush - we finally arrived after crossing the very famous bridge into Copenhagen. We arrived to big cheers and screams from Otillia and Frida, a huge traditional lunch from Bodil and Peter and a while later the birthday celebrations began. Family arrived, more food materialised, presents were unwrapped (we could not have bought better Otillia loved her "Coloured Bubble Gun") a traditional birthday cake that Peter had made, more food and so it went on. We fell into Molly that night exhausted but full. 2 lovely, happy little girls made our day - as did Bodil and Peter.

We spent a couple of fabulous days as guests of Bodil and Peter being introduced to black bread, pate and cucumber (delicious) and being loved by Otillia and Frida (who, by the way, could speak no English but managed to make themselves understood and worked out how to understand us very quickly) and, as they departed for a welcome break at the family holiday house, we headed on the train to Copenhagen for the day. Do you remember the angry bear game Otillia and Frida? That was such good fun.

Arriving at the huge train station and wandering around for a while we realised that the city actually was very sprawling so opted for the hop on hop off bus - the only way to see a city as big as Copenhagen and not miss out on anything. We did all the obligatory places such as the "mermaid on the rock", the markets, the boat trip, the hot dog in a bun from one of the few remaining street vendors which was absolutely delicious etc etc then returned to Molly for our last night in Denmark before crossing the border into Sweden (well not quite as easily as that actually).

SWEDEN.

Catching a cute little ferry that ran like clockwork to Kristianstad we arrived in Sweden.We loved Sweden. It was a very easy country to travel in, easy to bike in due to it being relatively flat. The weather was perfect and hot which was apparantly quite unusual and the roads are very, very good. We encountered no big tour groups massing anywhere and the bonus was that freedom camping is encouraged. It is considered everybodies right to convene with nature - so we did. The daylight hours are very long at this time of year so the further North we went the later it got dark - 11.30pm to 5.30am was our shortest night - so plenty of time to do most things. We cannot imagine traveling Scandinavia in anything but a camper - there is so much natural beauty and space, there is so much to stop for and to see and do. Our only downside was that we had chosen the month to travel through when most Swedish people take their annual holidays - and they all have campervans or caravans - putting huge pressure on most campsites which were bursting at the seams and very, very expensive. So freedom camping it was - anywhere and everywhere - only going to a campsite overnight to empty the loo, fill up with fresh water and to shower and only every 3rd or 4th day. Whilst travelling through Sweden we have only met one other NZ couple from Auckland who were here for an international orienteering competition - Maquita and Rob we hope you did well with your races and took out some firsts. We also met Danish friends of theirs, he a plastic surgeon, but unfortunately he has retired!!!!!!

So we visited Kristianstad, Kalmar, Jonkoping, Karlsborg, Filipstad, Falkingdan, Avesta, Tandadalen to name a few places. We visited castles, harbours, lakes, forests, ports and skifields. We picked wild raspberries and blueberries and discovered huge anthills constructed from pine needles. We swam in the lakes, discovered beer and wine were not sold in supermarkets and partook in a "dry July"!!!! Finally found a "Swedish Off Licence" and bought Aussie wine????? Saw a road that literally opened up to allow yachts and other boats along the canal. Were astounded at the large amount of boy racer tyre marks on the roads - absolutely everywhere - and have realised it is possibly a world wide problem. We learned about the Swedish mile (one swedish mile equals 10 kilomtres) and what the Swedish word Loppis meant from Helena and Tommy who we met at one of our excursions into a campsite. We had seen this word on makeshift signs by the side of the road all through Sweden and finally found out the Swedes have an unparalleled mania for fleamarkets of all things. Loppis means Fleamarket and little stalls are everywhere selling everything people no longer need and very cheaply too. Now it just so happened a fleamarket was happening just that day along the street right behind the campsite so Helena, Gary and I set off to partake. All the residents had their tables out selling their wares and it was really enjoyable. I bought 5 small plates for Molly and a set of salad servers for 20 Swedish Kroner ($3.50NZ). Gary bought expandable pliers for 10 SEK ($1.75NZ) but the best bargain was a really nice, waterproof, white silicone strapped watch for me for 10 SEK. The risk was that it wasn't going " but it only needs a new battery"???!!!! One thing about Scandanavian people - they are very trustworthy and honest. One new battery later and I was very happy. Thanks Helena for introducing us to Loppis - just wish we had known sooner, all those bargains we have missed out on???

One of the campsites we did stay in the owners had been to Nelson for their honeymoon so it was interesting to strike up a conversation with him but the best freedom camping in Sweden? A peaceful spot beside a lake, beside a cute cafe, beside an old mine with a huge waterwheel and right beside a camping ground where we sneaked in to use their facilities!!!!!

The worst freedom camping spot we chose was once again beside a lake but in a carpark and we were woken at some hour in the morning by boy racers skidding past us. Poor Molly turned grey overnight!!!

And the worst campsite? Stuck on a sixpence totally surrounded - but they shall remain annonymous.

With all this camping outside of the towns and villages we had plenty of opportunity to get on our bikes and explore which we thoroughly enjoyed but our time in Sweden was coming to an end and we headed high into the mountains of Sweden, to the Salen Skifield and the alpine landscape of Tandandalen. That night we experienced the best thunder and lightening storm ever - yes ever - and the next morning we headed for the Norwegian border.

NORWAY

When we first arrived in Norway we were pretty unimpressed. It was a huge contrast to Sweden. It was cold and the weather was not good. The country and the people looked dour and depressed, along most roads were masses and masses of boy racer donut skid marks and everything seemed so jolly expensive. We did learn later from a campsite owner that the country has been experiencing a huge economic downturn with once thriving factories and major producing companies closing down. No one spoke about boy racers though which was interesting as their impact must be huge.

However we were determined to give it a go and we are so glad we did. As we moved deeper into the north west of Norway we were awe inspired by the amazing everchanging beauty around us. But I shall try and document here our journey through this amazing country.

Immediately we crossed the border from Sweden we climbed, straight up, to 590m and met our first rain in a long while. Our first stop was Lillehammer where the 1994 Winter Olympics was held and of course we had to take a trip to the Birkebeineren (Ski jump arena where the opening ceremony took place). It was here that we realized that Norway is totally geared up for Winter and Snow and although we were travelling in high season we were actually in their low season - but it was good. Parking Molly we then took the chair lift to the top of the jump which was pretty scary. For those of you following us on Facebook you will know Gary had a go............! A quick excursion around Lillehammer centrum and we were off. For a township who hosted a Winter Olympics Lillehammer was pretty bland.

As we travelled along towards Andalsnes, a small alpine town by a fjord, the pretty log cabins with grass roofs became more prolific. Short grass, long grass, shrubs, ferns, christmas trees - you name it, they had it on their rooves - looking like hedgehogs balanced on the side of the mountains. It has become pretty evident now, because everywhere we look is very green and fertile, that they do experience high rainfall. We have since been told 270 rainfall days per year????? It is however Raspberry and Strawberry season so that is a big bonus in my books.

Driving along we kept seeing signs "Fartsmaleng" which caused an uproar in Molly but we think we worked it out to be a warning sign saying there was a speedo check up ahead - who knows but we will stick with that one.

We are making our way to the very famous Norwegian road that zig zags straight up the side of this enormous mountain and as we progress the landscape changes and becomes rocky and flinty and dramatic, the road narrows with sheer drops to the sides, beautiful rapids tumble and roll over the rocks beside us and waterfalls cascade down sheer mountainsides. It is beautiful and breathtaking and we want more of this.

Freecamping for the night we park beside one of these rapids and although it is noisy we sleep like babies. Norway is sooooo safe. The next morning we are off again to find Trollstigen!!!!!!!

By now we are seeing icecaps on the mountains, the temperature is cold and the rain is heavy. As we round a bend and pull into a carpark our mouths drop open at the sight. Coaches, campervans and cars slowly edge their way up the side of the mountain looking like dinky toys as they get to the top - not THE top just the top that we can see. From there there is a stone one way bridge to manoever across and many more kilometres of mountain zigzaging. However much we wanted to do this there is no way we would expect Molly to without some complaint so......we backed off, went back down the part that we had done and did a round about route to Stordal where we found a lovely campsite for the night where we recharged our batteries.

Next day catching a ferry to Stranda we realised the value of a tunnel. In Norway, and especially in the fjords where we are, tunnels and ferries are part of the road network. Some tunnels are old and dark with poor lighting and some are obviously newer but all are blasted through sheer rock and are quite long. The longest one for us was 11kms and I seriously have a tunnel phobia. Ferries are quick and effecient and if compared with eating out relatively cheap.

Ringdal was our next stop - a beautiful settlement in the fjords hosting a French cruise liner at the time. We looked down from the road above to a perfect picture. Lunch at Horingdal, a cute fishing village, in a carpark right at the waters edge with free wifi?????? NZ has a lot to learn re Wifi availability.

We are making our way to Bergen on the west coast and if you look at your map we have done a big loop up and across the face of Norway. We make it as far as Olden and stop for the night in a layby, with several others, just off the road. At some unearthly hour in the morning a huge truck rolls past and sounds his horn waking everyone up. Which means an early start for us to Bergen.

Once again mountains, tunnels and ferries await us but we arrive in Bergen in the rain to a campsite this time - very expensive it was too but hey we are in Bergen what do you expect??? Settling in amongst the piles of skree and mountains of clinker we make the most of it. Washing and drying machines are free - there is a silver lining to all clouds - so sheets, towels, clothes all get done. Next day we are off by bus 320 to Bergen.

Bergen is big but once you discover the Old town with the very pretty, colorful, wonky buildings and what is behind them, the harbour and the bustling fish market you are captivated. We spent a great day here just fossiking around in the back streets, tripping over the local druggies, drinking coffee, taking photos and then we discovered Neil Young was playing there that evening. Unfortunately he was sold out but.......whilst wandering around the local castle we stumbled across the soundstage almost at the completion stage. Taking a high advantage next to a guy with a camera and tripod we decided to wait see whether he would come out and perform a few songs as a sound check.........nah! It wasn't to be but never mind we didn't have a clue who he was anyway!!!!!!! Really? I hear everyone saying. Yes really!!!!! Neither of us could pin a song on him until we googled him and now know he sang "heart of gold".

Anyway catching the wrong bus back to "the worst campsite we have ever stayed in" the nice driver went against the rules and dropped us off at the precise spot right outside Molly - thankyou bus driver very much. One more night here, thank goodness, and next morning we are on our way to Odda.

The road is very windy and very narrow and we are constantly pulling over to allow people through: the tunnels are very long and dark: the scenery is beautiful. We lunch, stopping down by the waters edge, in Northelmsund where we are surrounded by mountains, sunshine and peace and quiet. This is priceless. We take another ferry from Gjermundshamn to Arones, drive right through Odda and finally find a campsite deep in a valley surrounded by beautiful mountains and a stones throw from ........yes, another lake. We need to relax, tomorrow is going to be a really big day that neither of us are looking forward to.

When settling deep in a Norwegian valley, as above, there is always a consequence......a very steep climb to get out. We bottled out of one big climb but this one we cannot. We are on our last leg to Kritiansand to catch a ferry back to Denmark which is already booked and paid for. So up we go, climbing rapidly to1100 metres and Molly was a dream. We were so proud of her. The day was hard though, rain, high winds, mountain plateaus, long tunnels but we can say we have definitely explored the grass roots of Norway. Descending for a short period to 830 metres and driving along a mountain plateau with ice caps close up and personal we came across this building, seriously in the middle of nowhere, selling horse equipment?????? Of course we stopped off to have a look, because we had not a clue what the signage said, and found it hard to fathom why it was there??? Ascending again, clever girl Molly, we both commented on how we could imagine this to be Dinasaur land and neither of us would have been at all surprised to see a Taranasaurus Rex or a Raptor rushing through the sparten landscape to get a drink of water from yet another lake. (Or even a camera crew making a movie) Loving this beautiful part of Norway so much, despite the persistant rain, we decide to freedom camp for one last night (by a lake and off road) but whilst looking for the perfect spot we once again stumble across another Norwegian wonder. 4 absolutely stunning waterfalls each one cascading down the mountainside almost to the road. These are natures natural wonders and we feel we can sleep well tonight knowing we have given Norway a good shot and a piece of our heart. As it happens this perfect free camp spot turned out to be the best one throughout our travels. It was an awesome day.

So back down the mountains and into Kristiansand for the ferry to Hirtshals. Back to the busy roads and boy racer tyre marks. Just outside the city in Vennesla the whole road through the village was absolutely covered, not an inch to spare, with donut and fishtail tyre marks. They must be holding the locals to ransom. On a brighter note we were back into sunshine. In Kristiansand there seemed to be a lot of elderly people with zimmer frames walking around and we both commented that there must be an Old Folks Home somewhere near. Low and behold just around the corner a sign - Godsterminal!!!!!

We had a quick look around Kristiansand, bought a T shirt, nearly had an Indian, found lots of free wifi and after a 5 hour wait boarded the express ferry. Two and a half hours later we are in Hirtshalls snuggling down for the night on the dockside - in Molly of course - absolutely exhausted. A long but fabulous day. Goodnight X