Europe part 4

Europe part 4. Sorry folks you need a coffee and an armchair for this one.....enjoy! Saying farewell to Markus and Livia, a very difficult thing to do indeed we headed for Lake Bodensee, Constance, Germany. It is quite weird when travelling in Europe as you can cross many borders between countries several times in one day just getting to your destination. Arriving there, after Kate (GPS) taking us the wrong way, we finally found the campsite.....closed. Close by was another one which was extremely decrepid but on the lakeside so we opted for a one night stay. These stops are only really rest stops as we are on our way South now to Croatia. It was a horrible place with an open communal shower block which reminded me of Autswitch so with the weather getting colder by the day a quick walk along the lakeside was the most we could do here and we headed for Leichtenstein - the 4th smallest country in the world. The journey there was out of this world. It was sunny, the grass was so green with a backdrop of magnificent mountains and we could not stop taking photos. The scenery was right out of a Heidi picturebook. Unfortunately arriving at the campsite it started to rain, the mountains misted over and everywhere became quite bleak. Once again this was only a stopover but we are becoming more aware that winter is on the way and we need to expediate our move South. Next stop Innsbruck Austria. Travelling mainly by motorways through the mountains once again we were struck by the scenery and tunnels. Sooooooo many tunnels!!!!! One was 13kms long and to be honest they are not my favourite things but the journey was good and the campsite is great - state of the art everything. We were staying here 2 nights originally but guess what......it is raining so our bus trip to Innsbruck has been put off till tomorrow.....we are now staying 3 nights and will cut short a day further down the track. Today was perfect for our bus trip to Innsbruck which was free. The bus arrives directly outside the campsite and takes you the 20minute trip to the town centre and back and all for free - amazing service. The downside, or maybe the upside, is that it is Sunday and no shops are open in many European cities on a Sunday. The weather however was sunny and perfect. Finding our way to the old town we were pleasantly surprised to find quaint streets bustling with tourists with plentiful cafes spilling onto the footpaths. The city is full of history and typically Austrian with buildings beautifully decorated dating back to the 15th century. The streets are narrow, the buildings very tall and higgledy piggeldy and there was a very discreet Macdonalds tucked away in a cloister. Colour abounds as do the buskers. Along one of the main tourist streets where little shops sell touristy Austrian things I found myself a knitted bobble hat lined with polar fleece - excellent for those cold morning walks to the loo. Unfortunately I could not persuade Gary to indulge so he could have warm "morning ears" too. Vanity, vanity! Yep it is getting cold quickly. Innsbruck has hosted 2 winter Olympic games in the past and has the most amazing ski jump structure rising out of the valley. (photos on Facebook)  It is not at all difficult to imagine it here in the winter covered in deep snow - it would be magical. There is also a Luge run in Innsbruck but unfortunately we did not discover that. Having had an Italian lunch in an Austrian city we headed for home and back to Molly - to sit in the sun with a glass of wine and watch the sun go down. Moving on from our most amazing campsite EVER - it was a real pleasure to shower and pamper here in spacious, heated shower cubicles - we travelled all day through the mountains and countryside crossing from Austria to Italy and back to Austria to reach our destination of Dubriach just outside of Villach. Once again it is by a lake, surrounded by mountains and seemingly just waiting for winter to fully arrive bringing with it the snow and skiers.......but we are looking for the sun!!!! On our journey here today over the Swiss alps of 268kms we decided to stop for lunch at a hotel/restaurant. Hungry we jumped out of Molly and approached the building which looked quite deserted. Stepping inside we were met initially by a barking poodle so we walked deeper into the labyrinth and eventually a man appeared. I have to say here the place was quite large and very tastefully decorated. Enquiring as to whether the restaurant was open we were assured it was. Producing a bunch of keys from his pocket he swiftly unlocked a room which had a restaurant look about it and all very pristine. Deciding there was no turning back now we ordered a drink and selected some pasta from the menu - just a starter each. I am sure you know what I am going to say next - yes........the meal was amazing and cheap and out of all the places we could have stopped we were soooo pleased we stopped there. Once again in the middle of nowhere but if you are in Austria for the snow season this is the place to go and stay. We will stay at this campsite, agaIn just for one night. We have no internet/wifi and in this day and age that is inexplicable. The site is huge, has a sanitary block that would be better placed in Disneyland with grottos etc (don't get it either) and the weather is bleak. We left sunshine in Innsbruck this morning so once again this is disappointing. Tomorrow we travel to Lake Bled in Slovenia and boy I hope it is sunny or at least warm. Gary has chosen a campsite so hope that is good too. Travelling along extremely poorly maintained roads in Slovenia, Gary thought all hIs teeth were going to be shaken out, we arrived at Lake Bled via a very high, very narrow, hilltop village. ( think Kate GPS was miffed with us for some reason cos she took us some weird ways that day) to the exact campsite I had stayed at two and a half years earlier with Foo and Neil. The campsite is directly on the lakeside which is awesome as Bled is very pretty. The cafe out front was still there but unfortunately the coffee was not as memorable......but Bled cake, yummy plus plus. The campground was almost empty and it was obvious a lot of rain had fallen as it was quite churned up but we found a good spot, settled Molly and then went for a walk around the lake. We were lucky as although the temperature was not high and coats were required the sun peeked out occasionally and our photos were clear of the lake and the changing colours of Autumn. The lake has an island in the middle with a beautiful church where people can hIre a traditional dragon boat or row themselves to for a visit and the island is popular as a wedding venue. Slovenia was cheap in 2011 but it has discovered tourism and is now quite expensive by comparison. 24 euro was needed to get us to the island which we felt was exorbitant. Our circumnavigation of the lake took a couple of hours including an exploration of Bled and was very pleasant. The lake freezes in winter and iceskating and walking to the island is then an option. Deciding to stay another night as it is quite enjoyable without hordes of people here, the following day we walked to Bled castle up many, many steps and steep hills. It was so worth it! The weather was overcast and foggy but this helped to set the scene surrounding the ancient castle and gave us a different view of this magnificent lake and area. The castle was exemplary and we spent many hours there learnIng much about the hIstory of the area, the dIfference In local weather patterns In relatIon to wInemakIng and vIneyard dIstrIbutIon. The monks used to make wIne In the castle but now they only sell from there as the vIneyards today are no longer local - maInly because of clImate change causIng shorter summers and longer wInters. A large amount of old tools, utensils and jewellry have been found In the area and In the lake, datIng back thousands of years. We enjoyed our tIme at the castle and Lake Bled In general. Walking home back to Molly we stopped and enjoyed a 3 course meal for 8 euro 50 cents, which was delicious, at the local boat club (Lake Bled is where many of the Slovenian Olympic rowers do most of their training and where the world rowing champs are held). Tomorrow we head for Postajna to the caves and I really hope it will stop raining!!!!! So a quick trip along the very nice motorway saw us arrive at the caves. Deciding to stay at the Aire there which Is specifically for campervan pArking we were shocked to see that the cost had rocketed to18 euro for an overnight stay. Come on Slovenia this is an offput for tourists and you are paying heavily for these inflated prices. I stayed here with Foo and Neil, once again in 2011, and my memory tells me it was 12 euro and almost full. The caves are as busy - if not more - and only 2 vans are overnighting here???? And it is raining - where is the sun? The caves though are wonderful, magical and just like a wonderland. For Gary it was his first visit, for me the second and it was still as captivating. It has become a great deal more commercialized but wow.....those stalagtites and stalagmites!!!!! I have put a video and photos on Facebook. The caves open to the public are 7kms long and part is done by train and part by walking. The caves themselves are over 27kms deep. Discovered in 1818 they have been open to view since 1819 but were abused during the 2nd world war when petrol was burned in the opening section which is now stIll quite black. Hey guess what we are sitting in Molly, listening to good music, drinking wine and it is RAINING! As long as we can figure out how to pay and get out of this aIre tomorrow we are heading for Starigrad Paklenica near Zadar Croatia in the morning. Next morning and still in pouringing rain we walked the 200metres to the pay machine, paid our 18 Euro and got our escape code. Heading South to warmer climes where there was no need for bobble hats and rain coats was uppermost in our minds. It actually was a good trip down, once we got Kate up to speed and taking us in the right direction - like South and not North - and we could always see brighter weather on the horizon. Unfortunately that is where it stayed and we seemed doomed to be travelling hundreds of kms, with a leaky windscreen to boot, forever in the pouring rain. Arriving at the Slovenia Croatia border we actually had to stop at the border booth ( SlovenIa sIde ) and hand over our passports. First time since Paris I believe! Croatia is now part of the European Union so this was a surprise, as was the scrutiny. My British passport was no problem but Gary's NZ passport with no stamps in it was a challenge for the border policeman. With both of us trying to look as though we were not in the least concerned we sat and waited watchIng the forehead frowns deepen. Just as quickly he suddenly looked up, saw the long queue behind us, passed over our passports ( no stamp again) and waved us on. However a few metres down the road it was the turn of the Croatians to scrutinize the passport. So now we have neither entry nor exit Slovenian stamp in Gary's passport so..... how can we possibly be here at the Croatian border? More forehead frowning but eventually a stamp and an order to drive on. Phew we made it through. You are probably wondering why the concern? Well it is all to do with the Schengan agreement whereby Gary can only stay in Schengan territory for a maximum of 3 months and then is duty bound to leave and not re enter for a further 3 months. Those who are good at maths will know we have been in Europe and Schengan country since mid June so well over our legal stay but with no stamps in passports, literally no stopping or passport checks as you cross borders who the hell knows where we are and have been anyway?????? Travelling for most of the day along the Croatian AdrIatIc coastline which is very beautiful in it's own way - barren, rocky, austere and dotted with small fishing villages in most of the small bays - we finally arrived at our destination which was a small campsite, not busy, right on the edge of the sea. This was perfect! Selecting our perfect spot, in this perfect campsite, we proceeded to find a level park which we did, well, as is usual for us cos we are the perfect team, but not before Gary wrapped poor Molly round a big pine tree!!!!!! Some could say this was my fault for lack of direction but I would like to point out here that there was another person helping and I think the entire blame is his. ( it was just a minor bruise on the awning casing..... Took a bit of bark off the tree) Waking up the next morning and the sun was shining brightly - success at last. It is amazing how the warmth of the sun on your body lifts the spirits and energizes you. Taking a long walk along the coastline we found a great coffeshop, Starigrad was nothing special in itself, bought some local currency and ambled back to base. Breakfast, lunch and dinner was eaten with our feet dipping into the ocean, all the washing was brought up to date, dried and put away, the housework was done and I even went for a very quick dip in the Adriatic which was very, very, very cold.....but fun. Here we met Imka and Reiner from Berlin and what an amazing couple. She is 72 and he 73 and they were both as spritely as spring chickens and enjoying their lives to the max. They shared valuable knowledge and information with us with regard to Venice and also shared a bottle of wine or two with us as well. We hope to keep in touch with them as they head to Sarajevo to meet up with their son for their 46th wedding anniversary. Well done you guys it was our delight to meet you both and we wish you safe travels into the future but It was time for us to move on to Split via Zadar. Saying emotional farewells again we set off along the well maintained coastal roads of Croatia admiring the beautiful, dramatic coastline as we went. Zadar was a disappointment for us. We were trying to find the pipes in the sea that play tunes as the tide and waves roll in and out. It is magical and eery and beautiful all rolled into one. This was one of our first sunny, calm days for ages and we thought that the pipes would not be playing so we didn't make a lot of effort to find them and of course we didn't.......find them that is. We will be going back that way anyway so we still have a chance and, not wishing for bad weather really, I just hope the sea has a little spunk about it on that day to make It worthwhIle. FInally rollIng Into SplIt and our next campsIte we were amazed to be dIrected to our new pItch, once agaIn dIrectly on the edge of the sea with full sun as well. GettIng ourselves establIshed we were just about to sIt down wIth a glass of rose when an English couple - he another ex English policeman with an amazing sense of humour - from the next campervan approached us thinking we were from GB. "No" we said "we are from New Zealand" and with that another couple came from the other direction saying "Did we hear there are some more kiwis here?". So the rest I will leave to your imagination. The Kiwis, Mark and Wendy, live in Auckland but are doing as we are - travelling for one year having rented their house and given up their jobs. Wendy was a top, talented cross country endurance motorbike racer In NZ. Their travels have taken them roughly through the same places as us through Europe and the 6 of us, Calum and Jane, Wendy and Mark will meet up again in Dubrovnik hopefully. It is so nice to meet such like minded people with whom we have soo much in common and you feel you have known for years. It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening and completely impromptu. So today we have chilled in the sunshine and walked into the local small village, paddled in the ocean and pigged out on the biggest hamburger ever. Gary has had a Croatian haircut for 5Euro (40Kuna) much too short but will last him another 3months and tomorrow we catch the bus to Split. We have been told this pitch is probably one of the best on this campsite, the weather is good, the wifi is free so we will probably stay here for a few nights and really chill out. All change......Waking up after a night of torrential rain, thunder and lightning and all is very miserable. Jane and Calum have moved on and Wendy and Mark leave today. A high wind has now picked up and having just caught our awning before it took off (well really Mark and Wendy did) we have decided to definitely stay put and have postponed our trip to Split until tomorrow. As the day progresses the weather improves and a gas refIll becomes our prIorIty. With some instructions from reception we walk, with our large gas bottle, up over the hills and far away to get it refilled. What an amazing thing that we can do this here in Split as we had heard it was quite a difficult thing to do in Europe and here we are in Croatia. So on we trudge and following a map we finally reach our destination. By this stage Gary is complaining that one arm is now 6 inches longer than the other but this is all worth it!!!! Dropping off the bottle we were met by two really nice Croatian men who very apologetically told us that bottle refills were not what they did???? They did however tell us where we could get it done, many kms away, gave us a history lesson on Croatia, Split and the "home war" and bid us a friendly farewell. Carrying the bottle in the other hand to even hImself out Gary and I walked all the way back to the campsite. NO, Gary would not hear of me carrying the jolly thing - male pride.......? Eating at the restaurant that night with friends we decided to have an early night and prepare for our trip to Split in the morning. SPLIT.....a beautiful, historic, ancient township buIlt wIthIn the palace walls and boastIng the most stunning harbour, Is totally surrounded by concrete jungle suburbs The old town is amazing with it's narrow maze of streets but because it is difficult and expensive to build on the rocky ground they tend to build concrete multistorey accommodation which is truly ugly. And the tagging.......everywhere. We bussed in on a gorgeous sunny day and really enjoyed ourselves discovering the majority of streets within the old palace walls. We kept popping up in different places continually and even discovered 5 tenors singing Croatian songs in what appeared to be a dome shaped natural amphitheatre. Each time we took a new narrow street or alleyway we came across another square or another area of remarkable buildings. It was a great day and made even better by finding three new outfits for the baby due next month and a pair of boots for me. Catching the bus back to our beautiful beachsIde place in the sun we resolved to stay another night or two. Staying 2 more night's we felt really rested, enjoyed the weather, topped up our tan, drank cider in the camp bar, watched as a Red Cross/Search and Rescue/Fire Department tent city was erected for a Civil Defence excersise in the bay and then left for our all day trip to Dubrovnik via the one and only gas filling station a few kms out of Split in the total opposite direction to Dubrovnik. GPS set and off we go!!!!! Quite a while later we found the place which looked really promising but alas it was Saturday and closed. Staying lighthearted we headed off to DubrovnIk and the cruIse down along the CroatIon coastlIne was absolutely stunnIng. The journey took us soooo long as we just had to keep stoppIng for photo shoots and to buy local produce from stalls at the roadsIde. Between SplIt and DubrovnIk there Is a 15mInute journey where you have to travel through BosnIa so once agaIn we were a lIttle concerned re Gary's Shengan status. We needn't have been concerned though as even though Gary accIdentally drove through the second half of the border patrol without stopping there seemed little concern. Arriving quIte late into Dubrovnik by road takes your breath away. Instantly it engulfs you in it's spirit. The city and Its envIrons are a sheer delight even though the roads to the campsite quite narrow. The campsite was so so but the best part was the first evening, spent not only with our four friends from Split, but also another NZ couple - Gary and Diane - and their friends from the UK. 1.45 a.m. we rolled into bed but a great night was had by all. Next day, feeling a little groggy and with spare Panadol, we bussed into Dubrovnik to do the tourists things on offer. Oh boy what a day and that was when we fell in love with this amazing, robust city. Walking the streets within the walled city was in itself breathtaking but actually walking on top of the walls around historic Dubrovnik had us enchanted. It was the perfect day, perfect weather, perfect scenery, beautiful colours everywhere and we spent hours just absorbing it all. The walls, the harbour, the hIstory - everythIng - finishing it off with a pear cider each at a bar, sIttIng perfectly balanced on a rocky outcrop wIth the AdrIatIc ocean poundIng below, the sun settIng over pIcturesque DubrovnIk and the deep, turquoIse sea. You reach thIs bar through a small hole in the thIck, 17th century, city wall. Today was our tourist day, tomorrow we were hoping to learn more about the attempted destruction of Dubrovnik in 1991 - not so long ago. Arriving wearily back at the campsite we said our goodnights and fell into bed both thinking how lucky we were to be here in Dubrovnik......just how grateful and just how lucky. Only allowing 2 night's in Dubrovnik and having booked our overnIght ferry tickets from the port of Dubrovnik and Bari in Italy, our last day was going to be all about finding gas!!!!!! Getting up early we were in the process of packing up Molly to go in search anywhere to find someone who could help us with gas when Calum approached. As quick as you like he and Gary struck a deal and we had a full double sized gas bottle in Molly again. My goodness that was such a relief and it also meant we could quit the campsite on time, run the fridge off the gas whilst we parked in the campsite park and go back into the old town to do more exploring for the day prIor to regIsterIng for the ferry. Thankyou sooooo much Calum and Jane for your generosity - enjoy the bubbly and we will catch up in January 2014. So everything now under control and Gary a much happier man we bussed back to town, using our donated tickets, but not before bumping into another young couple from NZ pitching their tent on the site - Sarah from CH/CH and Matt from BlenheIm. They are on their way home Mum's and Dad's - no need to worry! This day in Dubrovnik was always going to be unfathomable and sad interspersed with brightness. First stop Fort Lovrijenac the vast defender of the city where hamlet plays are now performed. It takes quite an effort to get there up many, many steps but well worth it especially for the photography. Next stop the cable car and the photographic collection and explanation of the Homeland war which I am sure you will recall in 1991 if for no other reasons than the atrocities that occurred. It is well worth googling this event because I most certainly do not wish to revisit it here - for Gary and myself it made no sense. Very sobering. On the positive side they have rebuilt, restructured, regrouped and got on with life and all within 20 years. Figure Christchurch could take a leaf!!!! Tourism is flourishing. And so to our final lunch in Dubrovnik and even that was fantastic, eaten overlooking this fabulous place. Dubrovnik we love you and we will be back. Keep yourself safe so that our grandchildren and great grandchildren can follow in our footsteps and experience the heart and soul of you as we have been lucky enough to do. So we say farewell to all our new friends Calum and Jane who will be moving on to Montenegro. Wendy and Mark who are on their way to Turkey via Greece and it is an emotional time for everyone. We have laughed so much, drunk too much and have exchanged information and knowledge we have gleaned along the way. Thanks for a wonderful time. But wait....... Wendy and Mark are on the same ferry as us to Bari but that is for the next blog.xxxxx