Europe part 2

Finding a very plush campsite by the rIver in Trier (the grounds were slightly neglected but the facilities were fully automated even down to the towel dispenser) and arriving on a very hot day we set off to cycle into Trier itself which was only 5km away. Unfortunately a short way there my cycle chain broke again and we had to seek out a repair shop. As luck would have it we came across one not too far away where the chain was replaced, the gears were re set up and the wheel realigned all for 14€. Amazing service and all while we waited. We spent the day wandering around this pretty place, once again steeped in history and old buildings with the obligatory square thrown in, had lunch in the sunshine and then cycled back to the campsite where we were witness to a full blown altercation re the parking and positioning of two campervan opposite us. Spellbinding it was. The next day we cycled back to Trier railway station, 7km, and took a train to Luxembourg once again another beautiful day. We took a "tourist Noddy train" which took us round the very lower, older, historical area of Luxembourg, deep down in the valley, for one and a half hours. Although the noddy train was a bit nerdy we would not have seen this area so deep in the valley had we not swallowed our pride and done it. Luxembourg is huge and although we are not big city fans we enjoyed our day here just wandering around, stumbling over different areas, quaint streets, beautiful gardens, historic defence walls, churches, bridges - of which there are many - sculptures, musicians but alas it was time to head back to the station and back to Molly. Now this is where our little trip went slightly awry for however hard we tried to establish the time and the platform of the next train back to Trier we were constantly told something different. Ah at last, a French woman and her son who spoke a little English. "Le train au Trier?" "Mais oui. We are going to Trier also". So we all scrambled aboard and waited, and waited and waited. Spotting a couple of guards on the platform Gary was dispatched to find out if we were on the correct train. No! Our train was sitting behind this one! Quick reactions saw us jump off the non-Trier train only to see the Trier train tootling out of the station. Next one 55minutes away stopping all stations. Eventually we arrived home to Molly on the limits of daylight, tired but happy. The following morning we headed down the Mosel river to Chalons passing through the champagne district. Just short of Chalon we espied a nice grassy area down by a river where a sign said "Aire" with a couple of wavy lines underneath. Deciding this was a rather pretty aire to stop at we elected to do our first night of freedom camping, drove down towards the river and parked - perfectly flat according to our spirit level - something hard to achieve even on a campsite hardstand. So we settled in. First thing to arrive was a farmer with his tractor. Second thing to arrive was a farmer bearing a gift of a bucket full of local, freshly picked plums. Third thing to arrive was a farmer on his ride on lawnmower mowing the grass around us - waving and smiling to Gary as he did so. This was all especially nice because after we parked we subsequently realised this was not a camping aire but the river Aire!! We stayed the night there though feeling safe and loved and left early the next morning for Chalons. Arriving in Chalons was a bit of a challenge as there was a festival and expo just starting, so streets were blocked off and everywhere was quite busy. Once Molly was set up and plugged in, off on our bikes to the expo. My goodness it covered miles and it covered everything anyone could possibly want or need. Technology in all fields is out of this world. Our recommendation: gut your house, start again with a container load of "stuff" from Europe. Our day was magic but expensive. We bought a fabulous stone frying pan, could never live without one now, but our biggest expense was lunch. $102NZ FOR THE TWO OF US! But boy it was worth it. (Gary shIvers everytIme he thInks about It) This was where we accidentally ordered a litre of beer each and got those silly grey hats for doing so. This was where it took an hour and a half to drink the beer and to eat the monster size plate of spIt roasted pork, potatoes and salad. We were both defeated in the end unfortunately but it was delicious. Having satiated ourselves we stayed on to watch the evening concert as the sun went down then cycled back to meet up wIth new Welsh frIends, Anne and Jeff,  for a campsIte feast of tapas and wIne. Joe Cocker was playing the following night, so the lady at the local boulangerie told us with earnest excitement. This festival goes on for many days, is the 2nd biggest in France and attracts big names. Now If it had been James Blunt it might have been different.....but Joe Cocker? We gave that one a swerve and the following day found us in a fabulous campsite beside Lac D'Orient wIth a swImmIng pool and beautIful sunshIne. Here we swam In the lake and pool, sunned ourselves dry and spent a couple of restful days just bIkIng Into the local vIllage and our envIrons, followIng the rabbIt and rechargIng our batterIes. Once the weather starts to change we know It Is tIme to move on and besIdes Gary had done hIs dash down the waterslIdes???!!!!! We were quite sad to leave this campsite it was so lovely but Troyes was calling so move on we must. Arriving at the municipal campsite there we wondered what we had hit! The people running it were lovely but the camp was a mess. It's saving grace was wifi access but neither of us showered there it was too skundgy. The weather was also overcast and quite dreary. We had been looking forward to Troyes (pronounced Troix) so this was bitterly disappointing but we braved the condItIons and cycled Into the centre. We are so glad we dId and I am sure on a sunny warm day It Is enthrallIng. Once agaIn sooooo much hIstory. The houses are brIghtly coloured, hIggledy pIggledy, and the streets so narrow some have wedges between the upper storIes holdIng them apart, supportIng them, or for whatever reason only known to man or beast.. Cat street (Ruelle des Chats) Is named because the cats could easIly jump from one house to the next across the street wIthout effort. The old town once agaIn, wIth Its cobbled streets that shake the hell out of you on your bIke, has so much presence and hIstory. we stumbled across some amazIng courtyards, gateways, buIldIngs at every turn. SometImes I am lost for words to descrIbe thIs feast for the eyes and braIn It Is all so aweInspIrIng. It wasn't at all busy due to the weather so we could stroll around absorbIng the wonder of the archItecture at our lIesure. The cold fInally took over and we cycled back to Molly along busy maIn roads untIl Gary, not too far from the campsIte, decIded to fall off hIs bIke. To be faIr, he tells me, It was hIs turn for hIs chaIn to break! HastIlly leaving this gross campsite and the bad weather behind us we drove to our favorite place - a campsite in a vineyard at Mersault and the weather was perfect. Biking 10km through the vineyards to Beaune was the highlight of this stay. This was what we had wanted to do in France and another dream had come true. Beaune was perfect, the sky was blue, the sun was shining, the town extremely picturesque and there were 3million bottles of wine and champagne stored in cellars under the township.....somewhere? Having lunch we met a great couple from UK who we whiled away the time with chatting about everything and nothing then went into the cellars of Patriarche to do some serious wine tasting and to indulge in a little more history. These wine cellars are massive and are underneath a nunnery???? We spent a good 2 hours down there tasting wine, meeting more English people, having a really good laugh and rolling out the other end facing the 10km bike ride home. ThIs unfortunately was generally more uphIll, we were cyclIng Into a head wInd, it was late and it was hot!!! But we made it! Now we have been buying really cheap, ok wine in France and we have been very happy with it. These 13 wines we "tasted" were really expensive wines and were horrible. Nuf said me thinks - not sure either of us could ever become a wine snob. I have to say though the cellars were incredible as those who have been following our Facebook photos can attest to. Bottles and barrels for miles. Next stop Lyon! Mmmmmmm caught a bus from the city campsite in Port of Lyon to the city. As I have said we are not big city people and we were not inspired at all here, in fact we felt saddened. It was vibrant, it had the beautiful Bastille to which you caught a cable car, it had a replica of the top tier of the Eiffel tower - complete with satellite and cell dishes - it had ancient, long steps - full of graffiti - it had, once again, beautiful architecture, beautiful squares, beautiful sculptures - most of which were grafittied. Disrespect for the city was rife and the beauty of it's ancient buildings were lost to us. It has lost it's soul to graffiti artists and skateboarders. Maybe this is a lesson learned for us and a reminder why we do not visit these places too often. We gave it our all but Hightailed it out of there after paying 19€ for a bag of pick and mix sweets from the pirate treasure chest. Nice sweets just too expensive and quite a shock. Right now we are in Annecy. As I write this we have endured a very miserable, cold, rainy day and are huddled in Molly in long trousers and blankets. In contrast yesterday and the day before were brilliant sunshine and in combination with the site beIng right on the lake edge it has been a perfect stopover. We have met more incredible people here - he is an ex London old fashioned bobby who helped arrest Ronnie Kray, one of the Kray twins, all those years ago. We enjoyed Dot and Gilbert's company immensely and hope we will all keep in touch. They have gone South as we go east to Switzerland. Annecy will keep for another day. If there is a place I could live in France so far I think it might be here, in the mountains. I hope you enjoy reading this blog for we have finally caught up. Sometimes it is hard to remember where we have been, although never what we have done. Sometimes one place blurs into the next but not it's beauty or it's special moments frozen in time. Sometimes we have to really think of the route we have taken but not where we are going. We are happy. Love to all xxxx