From Mae Sot to Mae Sarieng and on to Chiang Mai

From Mae Sot to Mae Seriang and on to Chiang Mai

After extending our stay in Mae Sot for as long as we could, we decided to follow the Burmese border right up to Mae Seriang. The only way to do this is by local buses called Song Tauw. It is a ute with a longer than usual back with a bench seat down either side and a roof on the top. There are some pretty modern ones like Toyota Hilux or Mazda twin cabs, and there are some pretty grotty ones which belch smoke and have no power to get up hills. One chap told me his one had done 2 million km. The sides and back are open, and people wait by the road and flag one down and climb on. I say climb on, as mostly the insides are full and you just cling on the back. They would comfortably seat 10 inside.

We had been to the bus station the day before and sorted out what we had to do. The price was 200 baht each for a six hour trip, no booking just turn up and hop on, then pay the driver. Easy. The hotel gave us a ride with our bags on the day of departure and we found the song tauw ready and waiting. Well it was there and 6 monkettes and a couple of ladies were in it but it was not due to leave for 45 minutes. Our bags were thrown on the roof and covered over and we piled in and sat on a thinly padded seat to wait. The monkettes (trainee monks of between 9 and 12 years old) were dressed in an orange sheet and flip-flops, and looked us up and down, but said nothing. They got a bit animated later, but 90% of the time they either looked miserable or slept. More people got on as the departure time got closer and we soon had about 16 on board. We had the two rear seats on the left side but poor Cathie was soon to be squashed up with a bloke who used her to prop himself up while he slept. In the heat it made her really sweat, but she would not give her ground and kept pushing back at every opportunity. Like on a downhill slope where we all slipped forward.

The trip was to be 5 or 6 hours, and as I said, it was following the Burmese border most of the way. We went through some nice scenery and jungle areas and rice fields getting prepared for planting when the monsoons come in June. Slash and burn is the method they use so the sky is just a smoke haze, and fresh fires are all along the road. After about an hour and a half we had picked up another 8 people. They were all hanging on the back behind me so my rearward view was blocked and sweaty armpits brushed my nose as we all claimed a piece of the rail to hang on to. The floor inside was also filled up with bags of food from the market, blocks of ice in sacks, and an old old lady with no teeth chewing beetle nuts squatting at Cathies feet. Well squatting on Cathies feet initially, and she was probably only 65. By now we were a contingent of 24 on/in the back of a ute, which had the power of a Morris Minor, and slowly edging our way closer to Maeseriang. This part of the trip was interrupted by stops by border police checking ID’s of Burmese people. We were passing a huge refugee camp, which Cathie had visited a few years ago, and some residents had been here for over 20 years. I guess the situation had eased for them as they seemed to be able to move around the countryside a bit. There were some on the truck with us and if they did not have a pass they simple placed some money in the policemans hand. On one occasion a lady, who had already paid off two police at earlier checks, was taken from the truck and behind a hut. She had tried to pass him money but he stopped her and asked her to come with him. She didn’t seem perturbed and returned a minute later. We figured the cop didn’t want to be seen taking a bribe so took her behind the hut to do it. Corruption is rife.

Our travelling companions did not communicate with us at all, nor gave eye contact. The number fluctuated as some got off and more got on along the road. We dropped some off in really remote places and the 6 monkettes got off in a village on the top of a hill. Sometimes we detoured to drop people off in their village, so we got to see more of the Thai lifestyle.

The time passed and soon we were the only original passengers left who went the whole journey. It was hot, windy, a bit tedious and at the same time very interesting. I wouldn’t have missed it for quids. On arrival at Mae Seriang we found that there were no taxis, only motorcycle taxis and we refused to take our big bags on the back of those bikes. I high-tailed it up the road to find our accommodation…. First left then first right, can’t miss it! Hmmmm, missed the first left, a small non-descript lane which didn’t even resemble a road. That’s my excuse. But it did have a sign pointing to our hotel. J By the time I found it I was a pool of sweat and here was Cathie standing outside. She had conned the song tauw driver to give her and the bags a lift. Good on ya girl! Only trouble was the hotel couldn’t find our booking. Got it sorted and settled into our room at the Good View Guest House.

Nice view all right. Overlooking a muddy creek. Our room was upstairs from reception and had a balcony to sit out on for a beer, a fridge for the beer, and a shop 2 minutes away that sold beer. This will do.

This is a very small town and before we had a meal we walked around most of it and found where the markets were, where to get iced coffee and 43 baht large Chang beer. While we were in the restaurant overlooking the creek, there was an almighty thunder and lightning storm. Constant flashes of light followed by huge claps of thunder and then down came the rain. I have never seen anything as heavy before. The covers were lowered to stop the rain coming in but it still found holes in the roof. The noise was so loud we had to yell to be heard, it was fantastic! Cathie wasn’t so fussed and sat with her hands covering her ears, as did some of the staff. It had eased enough for us to walk home and we were soon snuggled up in bed watching the storm move further away. The next morning our wee creek was now a fully-fledged river, much better to look at. The fishermen thought so too as they were out in force throwing nets to trap the fish which had been washed down with the flood.

We borrowed two push-bikes for the day and explored further afield. We went to a Karen native village by the river which dated back 200 years, but now it has sealed roads, sky TV and Toyota twin cab utes. Not all that impressive. Talked with a couple of fishermen by a weir who told us we were going the wrong way to get back to town, so we had to back-track. Stopped at a man-made lake and watched a cat fishing competition and then home to cool off with the aircon. Whew it is hard biking in 37deg.  

Needed to organise a way out of here for tomorrow, so after much discussion about where we should go next, we opted to catch a van/bus/bike/plane? to Chiang Mai.   At the bus depot we encountered the grumpiest, most unhelpful and ignorant lady we have ever met. She ignored us, she never smiled, and when we got her attention, she just said “all mini vans full have to go on bus!” We found out when the aircon bus leaves (non aircon is cheaper but crowded and hot we heard) and that we pay on board. Ok fine we can do this.

 Out for a meal in an empty restaurant then back to pack for the bus trip to Chiang Mai. Next morning we got a ride with our bags to the station… remember there are no taxis. Cathie tried to see if the mini van had some cancellations so we could have a faster trip. Once again the woman ignored her and just talked on her mobile phone until another customer came along and she dealt with them. Cathie interrupted but the woman just said “full, full”. Talk about ignorant. She came on the bus to collect the money later on and laughed with the driver about us. We had a strategy for getting on the bus. I would tend to the bags and Cathie would get on and claim the seats. She was number two at the door but was almost squeezed out by the cauliflower effect of people cramming in from both sides. She steadfastly held her ground by holding on to both handles beside the steps and clambered on. When I managed to get on here she was smiling from the two front seats behind the driver. Good skills. We were the only foreigners on board. Now people came from everywhere and passed us going to the back of the bus. The seats filled up quickly and several had to stand in the aisle. So many came on board I thought they had to be getting out the back door and coming round again! The ticket collector came on board, with the ignorant one, collected the money and it took so long we were sweltering in this ‘air-conditioned bus’. The engine was running but no air was flowing. Then more people arrived and were let on to sit where they could. Who cares about comfort and safety when you can take more money? The doors just closed and we were off on an epic 6 hour journey that turned into 8. I counted 9 people in front of us including the driver, and a guy was standing next to me leaning his backside on my shoulder! The bus held 40 people but I reckon there were at least 60 on board. As we had primo seats it was not too bad a journey, we had snacks and water and slept a bit. I looked at the dashboard and saw that none of the gauges were working, not the fuel gauge, the rev counter or speedo, or the indicator lights, the oil pressure one was working though. The bus was really slow on the hills, but the scenery was nice and we were in no hurry. Some people got dropped off along the way and the poor front floor people finally had a seat. We arrived at the bus station about 9.00 and when the passengers got off it seemed like 100 passed my seat. I had spent 8 hours on a bus with these people and I hadn’t seen them before.

Now let’s get a Tuk-tuk and find our hotel.