Our visit to Borneo was far from joyful and the bad started as we tried to check in on our flight at Phnom Penh airport via Kuala Lumpur. We were taken aside and told there was a problem with our tickets. The problem did not lie with us leaving Cambodia and entering Borneo but with our flights out of Borneo to Vietnam. Our flight times had been changed and we had been informed but Malindo Air had not been updated about the change. Long story short it was all fixed temporarily to ensure we got our flight out but low and behold we had further issues down the line which caused us a lot of angst and worry.
Needless to say the trip did not start off well.
Finally arriving at our hotel in KotaKinabalu our mantra came immediately to mind - "Nothing is as it seems". I won't go into boring details but our experience at the Chaya Hotel put a pall across our whole time in Borneo.
For us Borneo conjures up images of jungle and monkeys and beautiful birdlife but Kotakinabalu was none of that especially where we were anyway. There is a nice boardwalk along the river on the edge of town flanked by restaurants but it is vital you don your armour to walk along here to fight your way through the hordes of Chinese and Korean tourists.......seriously.
To try to better our experience we walked a few kms to the Shangri La hotel where they have a Marina and booked a trip to ONE of the little islands of the coast of KotaKinabalu..........mistake!!!!!
On booking the tour we were encouraged to buy and try one island first.....very busy, very busy......no not that one, not Manutik too small, full of restaurant tents and Chinese.......try Manukan.... bigger and better, less crowded. We are talking cute little islands here surrounded by coral reefs with beautiful golden sand and plenty of snorkeling........what on earth? Ok we will go to one and just take an add on later to see another island if we are not all snorkelled out on Manukan. Did we want a picnic?.....no thankyou......Do you want flippers......yes please because we are really looking forward to doing some serious snorkelling here. Ok ok and onto this little speedboat to take us and a few others to Manukan. Well it was a lovely boat ride on a smooth blue sea firstly stopping at Manutik to drop off a few people. Looking at that island with thousands on it we breathed out a huge sigh of relief sure in the belief we had made the right decision. On we go with our little wristbands on to Manukan.
Doubt first set in when we had to queue at this huge jetty to get off our little boat....boats were coming to the jetty from all directions loaded with eager people. Thankfully we were met by a young man from the marina staff and guided along the jetty to our raffia mats laid out on the sand in our little spot just at the edge of the jetty. Looking left there were thousands of bodies taking up every square inch. Every patch of water had a lifejacket with a snorkel bobbing in it. There was no coral and a few fish under the jetty only.
Over tourism, lack of respect for our environment and our world by anti social, arrogant, rude and selfish Chinese and Korean people and the hunger for the almighty dollar is ruining everything that to us is beautiful. We came to Borneo to snorkel, to see wondrous colours and beauty........we were heavily let down.
Freeing ourselves finally from the grip of our disgusting hotel we moved into KotaKinabalu city for a couple of days which gave us more food choices and the smelly river to sit by but also the opportunity to have a drink or two to drown our sorrows.
Leaving our main bags at the hotel we decided to fly light to Sandakan in the North East of Borneo to see the Orangutans in the wild at Sepilok and take a boat trip down the Kinabatangan River to see monkeys, elephants, wonderful birdlife and yes - you guessed it - Orangutans. Gary chose a great hotel - thank goodness - and things started to look up. The people here were gorgeous, very friendly and very helpful.
And so to our trips. We were lucky with our river trip - along with literally dozens of other boats who all set off at 4pm - to see elephants crossing the river. Depending on who you choose to believe this was very lucky because they are only seen either 3 or 4 times a week or 3 or 4 times a year to cross the river. It was particularly cute though because Mummy and Daddy elephant were helping Baby elephant to swim to the other side. We also saw the wires strung high across the river where the Orangutans cross because they can't swim but sadly only the wires. We did see Long tail, Silverleaf, Probiscus and Ringtail monkeys jumping in the trees (mmmmm) and an old Orangutan nest in the top of a tree. Just a bad day at the office I guess but this one trip definitely blew our daily budget sky high.
So everything was hanging on our trip to the Orangutan Sanctuary that operates as most sancturies do with a nursery and a feeding platform for those to come to from the jungle should they wish to do so. And Yes......one came! We were very happy to see at least one from the wild side. Her antics were quite captivating - so agile and strong. Hands, arms, legs and feet all equally useful to clutch, peel and eat 2 bunches of bananas whilst hanging from an overhead wire. If only we humans were so versatile!!!!
Across the road, just as a bonus really, we went to the Sunbear Conservation Centre set up by Mr Wong. Now this was magic that we did not expect. Set up so well with so much caring for these endangered small bears who are so so cute. Each have individual Sun markings on their chests and very long claws for digging. It all started with Mary, a tiny baby cub orphaned in the wild and reared by Mr Wong. Many have been kept as pets and not treated well when they grow from the cub stage. Here they are all happy and after many, many years of rehabilitation some are even returned to the jungle. They live a very normal life in the jungle space provided here at the Sanctuary. We spent a lot of time here and got some wonderful photos through the telescopes provided - it was captivating.
So that was Borneo for us. We returned to KotaKinabalu for 2 nights to collect and sort our luggage, have our final meal and desert on the waterfront and next morning hightailed it to Vietnam........however leaving Borneo was not so simple either as when we tried to check in the message came back......We have received your check in but there is a problem with your ticket!!!!! Oh vey........not again!
Tuesday, 14 August 2018
Phnom Pehn 2018
We chose a relatively new airline to fly from Bangkok to Phnom Pehn - Lanmai airlines. They were well organised, leaving early no less, but the planes were old and the seat space minimal.....for the first time ever Gary was unable to sit comfortably, his knees jammed up against the seat in front and his tray table coming down onto his stomach. The tray table supports were loose and broken and the chair back reclining button on my seat had disappeared into the internal cavity of the arm rest. We did however arrive safely and in one piece so Lanmai served it's purpose.
Oh the magic of Phnom Penh!!! How we have enjoyed this bustling "City of contrasts".
We are by no means city people preferring the quiet countryside to the hustle of any city but we believe, largely due to the location and quality of our hotel, we have enjoyed our 2 weeks here. This hotel with its amazing breakfasts is buzzing continuously. The rooftop swimming pool is an added bonus throughout the humid monsoon season and the monsoon rain has been very forgiving for us. Tuk Tuk drivers wait outside to take you any where you wish for a very reasonable price or, like us, you can explore on foot. we must have walked for miles here.
Obviously when coming to Phnom Penh the biggest things to visit are the Killing Fields and The Genocide Museum and, although reluctant to go, we were glad we did. These places, once again, highlight man's inhumanity to man under the rule of a single, misguided leader but especially here, where confessions were extracted by torture to make the killings justifiable, therefore "exhonerating" the killers from blame or "loss of face". Bullets however were too expensive to be used to kill their victims so instead steel rods were driven into their brain or they were literally bludgeoned to death at the pit edge. What these gentle people must have gone through and gentle people they truly are. The killing tree will stick in our minds forever as the most brutal murder of young children and babies took place at this spot. These atrocities happened when my children were young 1975 to 1979, not so long ago in many ways, and must never be allowed to happen again.
Phnom Pehn is not a pretty city - although it does sport a few parks, Wats and Palaces - has a lot of rubbish lying around in the streets and a definite sleazy side but it is vibrant. Motorbikes and Markets abound. There are footpaths on most roads which are used as motorbike, tuk-tuk or car parks so it is safer to walk along the side of the road - facing oncoming traffic - knowing you will be quite safe. Crossing the road or a crossroad is easy now......approach, look right and left, step out and walk confidently. A weave now and then may be called for but honestly it works - the traffic swells around you and everyone goes safely on their merry way. We could do it blindfold now. One word of caution here though ........red traffic lights, pedestrian crossings and green walking men on main dual carriageway roads mean nothing to motorbikes or tuk tuks but a hand held up as a stop signal is so much more empowering to the vulnerable walker and it works.
The main currency here is USDollar and secondly Cambodian Real. Real is worthless - 4,000 equals .50cents - so whenever you pay in US you are always given Real in change. Our biggest project is to get rid of it all before we leave......challenging. Happy hour is from 4pm to 9pm when beer is .50c a handle otherwise it is .75c or US1$. Food is different!!!!! A lot of street-food is seafood, clams, chicken bums, embryo eggs, frogs, intestines, those tips on the end of chicken wing tips, white sausages, gizzards, chicken feet and the list goes on.......when eating at a street stall all waste is dashed to the ground......bones, unwanted food, tissues - they each use dozens of these in one sitting - and anything else they wish to discard. The end result is total carnage.
Most of our time we have walked and explored, finding amazing local markets, restaurants and bars. We have been hassled by many beggars and children, to whom we have given food not money, and have learned a few main words of the Cambodian language to get by. We have not found any Golden Arches here which is fabulous - the locals all appear slim and healthy on their non western diet although other foods are slowly coming through - Turkish, Burgers and Pizzas.
We are going to eat in the dark tonight -I will let you know how that goes!!!!!!
Well that was amazing! Totally in the dark and served by blind people. We could hear other people - just - but could see nothing. We liked everything and ate everything we were served in our 3 course meal - first time I had eaten Duck in my life but thought it was pork??? - Gary had belly pork and he thought his was steak? Some tastes you could recognise but not put a name to but the biggest obstacle was not knocking your drink off the edge of the table!!! We were shown photos later of what we had been served and we were both quite surprised. Both of us resorted to feeling around our plates with our fingers just to ensure we had not missed a delicious morsel. Great experience and if you get an opportunity to do this it is a must.
Another great memory which will stay with us forever was so opportune and lovely. Just strolling down a back street after having dinner somewhere we heard a lot of laughing and singing. Nestled behind a TukTuk on the footpath were a group of men, women and children having so much fun, drinking juice and beer and singing karaoke from their cell phones. Gary started to dance to the music and before long we both had a beer in our hands, a chair to sit on and encouragement to join in. How could you possibly walk past all that? An hour later we toddled off amid handshakes and hugs to the strains of Adele.
Our hotel offered us a free sunset cruise on the Meekong which we accepted with pleasure and we joined another couple from the hotel for an enjoyable hour or two. Floating down the river are many golden offerings which seem to be sent on their journey during special ceremonies which also include mountains of flowers, incense, the beating of drums and the freeing of little birds from their cages. We never quite got to the bottom of all this but it was very interesting to watch. Professional people walk along the waterfront to help people pray - for a fee of course - and others are there with their cages of birds to sell. Flowers are sold once and recycled to be bought by other unsuspecting devotees but it doesn't matter, everyone is happy and leave feeling much better and much lighter.
As I said earlier we enjoyed Phnom Penh immensely. The markets were great - bought Maya a couple of pairs of shoes and some bits and pieces - but if you needed anything it could be found - from tools to clothes - hairdressing to nail polishing - food to shoes - jewelry to motorbike parts. Everything was bought in the markets. It was fun.
So our last day was spent relaxing by and swimming in the pool and our last evening at the night market where we sat crosslegged on a rush mat eating God knows what and drinking beer. A perfect end to our 2 weeks in this amazing city.
Tomorrow we head for KotaKinabalu in Borneo.
Oh the magic of Phnom Penh!!! How we have enjoyed this bustling "City of contrasts".
We are by no means city people preferring the quiet countryside to the hustle of any city but we believe, largely due to the location and quality of our hotel, we have enjoyed our 2 weeks here. This hotel with its amazing breakfasts is buzzing continuously. The rooftop swimming pool is an added bonus throughout the humid monsoon season and the monsoon rain has been very forgiving for us. Tuk Tuk drivers wait outside to take you any where you wish for a very reasonable price or, like us, you can explore on foot. we must have walked for miles here.
Obviously when coming to Phnom Penh the biggest things to visit are the Killing Fields and The Genocide Museum and, although reluctant to go, we were glad we did. These places, once again, highlight man's inhumanity to man under the rule of a single, misguided leader but especially here, where confessions were extracted by torture to make the killings justifiable, therefore "exhonerating" the killers from blame or "loss of face". Bullets however were too expensive to be used to kill their victims so instead steel rods were driven into their brain or they were literally bludgeoned to death at the pit edge. What these gentle people must have gone through and gentle people they truly are. The killing tree will stick in our minds forever as the most brutal murder of young children and babies took place at this spot. These atrocities happened when my children were young 1975 to 1979, not so long ago in many ways, and must never be allowed to happen again.
Phnom Pehn is not a pretty city - although it does sport a few parks, Wats and Palaces - has a lot of rubbish lying around in the streets and a definite sleazy side but it is vibrant. Motorbikes and Markets abound. There are footpaths on most roads which are used as motorbike, tuk-tuk or car parks so it is safer to walk along the side of the road - facing oncoming traffic - knowing you will be quite safe. Crossing the road or a crossroad is easy now......approach, look right and left, step out and walk confidently. A weave now and then may be called for but honestly it works - the traffic swells around you and everyone goes safely on their merry way. We could do it blindfold now. One word of caution here though ........red traffic lights, pedestrian crossings and green walking men on main dual carriageway roads mean nothing to motorbikes or tuk tuks but a hand held up as a stop signal is so much more empowering to the vulnerable walker and it works.
The main currency here is USDollar and secondly Cambodian Real. Real is worthless - 4,000 equals .50cents - so whenever you pay in US you are always given Real in change. Our biggest project is to get rid of it all before we leave......challenging. Happy hour is from 4pm to 9pm when beer is .50c a handle otherwise it is .75c or US1$. Food is different!!!!! A lot of street-food is seafood, clams, chicken bums, embryo eggs, frogs, intestines, those tips on the end of chicken wing tips, white sausages, gizzards, chicken feet and the list goes on.......when eating at a street stall all waste is dashed to the ground......bones, unwanted food, tissues - they each use dozens of these in one sitting - and anything else they wish to discard. The end result is total carnage.
Most of our time we have walked and explored, finding amazing local markets, restaurants and bars. We have been hassled by many beggars and children, to whom we have given food not money, and have learned a few main words of the Cambodian language to get by. We have not found any Golden Arches here which is fabulous - the locals all appear slim and healthy on their non western diet although other foods are slowly coming through - Turkish, Burgers and Pizzas.
We are going to eat in the dark tonight -I will let you know how that goes!!!!!!
Well that was amazing! Totally in the dark and served by blind people. We could hear other people - just - but could see nothing. We liked everything and ate everything we were served in our 3 course meal - first time I had eaten Duck in my life but thought it was pork??? - Gary had belly pork and he thought his was steak? Some tastes you could recognise but not put a name to but the biggest obstacle was not knocking your drink off the edge of the table!!! We were shown photos later of what we had been served and we were both quite surprised. Both of us resorted to feeling around our plates with our fingers just to ensure we had not missed a delicious morsel. Great experience and if you get an opportunity to do this it is a must.
Another great memory which will stay with us forever was so opportune and lovely. Just strolling down a back street after having dinner somewhere we heard a lot of laughing and singing. Nestled behind a TukTuk on the footpath were a group of men, women and children having so much fun, drinking juice and beer and singing karaoke from their cell phones. Gary started to dance to the music and before long we both had a beer in our hands, a chair to sit on and encouragement to join in. How could you possibly walk past all that? An hour later we toddled off amid handshakes and hugs to the strains of Adele.
Our hotel offered us a free sunset cruise on the Meekong which we accepted with pleasure and we joined another couple from the hotel for an enjoyable hour or two. Floating down the river are many golden offerings which seem to be sent on their journey during special ceremonies which also include mountains of flowers, incense, the beating of drums and the freeing of little birds from their cages. We never quite got to the bottom of all this but it was very interesting to watch. Professional people walk along the waterfront to help people pray - for a fee of course - and others are there with their cages of birds to sell. Flowers are sold once and recycled to be bought by other unsuspecting devotees but it doesn't matter, everyone is happy and leave feeling much better and much lighter.
As I said earlier we enjoyed Phnom Penh immensely. The markets were great - bought Maya a couple of pairs of shoes and some bits and pieces - but if you needed anything it could be found - from tools to clothes - hairdressing to nail polishing - food to shoes - jewelry to motorbike parts. Everything was bought in the markets. It was fun.
So our last day was spent relaxing by and swimming in the pool and our last evening at the night market where we sat crosslegged on a rush mat eating God knows what and drinking beer. A perfect end to our 2 weeks in this amazing city.
Tomorrow we head for KotaKinabalu in Borneo.
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