AUSTRALIA

Once again our flight was delayed for hours from LA to Brisbane, finally leaving well after 1am. The security at the airport was intrusive, rude and completely non professional. We were shocked to witness people in uniform openly laughing at Asian travellers who could not understand the system. My assumption is that they are there to help as well as keep the planes and country as safe as possible but when pre scan staff give you different information than post scan staff then a worrying element comes into play. As the saying goes……the right hand doesn’t know what the left hand is doing and that opens up a grey area through which anything can get. The problem seemed that no one truly cared, no one smiled, no one made eye contact……belligerence was rife. By the end of our security saga Gary was ropeable and needed the spare time to calm down.

Arriving in Brisbane we picked up our usual rental car from Apex and headed to Crystal Creek, Murwillumbah trying to avoid the toll motorways. We thought we were doing quite well but no……..ping, ping, ping…………they get us every time.

Waiting to welcome us in “our little red car” were Eleni and a very excited Maya. She was going to be 3 in a few days and a birthday party was in the offing. She is delightful. Adrian was just finishing a trip and would be home later.

We spent a delightful 3 weeks with the family sometimes taking Maya to the beach, to preschool etc and we watched her grow enormously – not only in stature, she seemed to get taller in front of our eyes - but in language and confidence and understanding as well. She definitely knows what she wants and at this tender age seems to have so much empathy. She likes being a “natural Dr” and when Gary fell off the back of a stationary ute and ripped his leg she insisted on inspecting it, touching it and asking if it hurt and then bandaging it. She did a jolly good job of it too.

Her birthday day was a treat and came together in the nick of time…….nothing like a last minute dash to the supermarket, which in this case is a good 3/4hr away, and a birthday cake flop x2 on the morning of……….but the slippy slide was popular even though it was on quite a steep slope, the children planted little flowers in terracotta pots and painted rocks from the river and the cake, the 3^rd attempt having been iced and well chilled, finally made its entrance covered in M&Ms and looking very bright and appealing. All in all a good day was had by all.

We were able to spend time with Carrie and Stefan as well. They took us to see their “new house plot and plan” which when built will be perfect for them. We are very happy that they will finally be on the house owning ladder so to speak.

We were also fortunate to catch up with Stefan’s parents and brother which is always a delight and have a nice meal with them. Sorry Lynn we were not there for your birthday but we know Mario gave you a good time!!!!!!!

Adrian’s business seems to be doing nicely and Eleni’s kinesiology practice is making a good start so all in all our trip to Australia was very positive.

We will be back in mid to late January for a few days and another catch up but our next stop is Myanmar and we have no idea what to expect there.

Saying difficult farewells – never gets easier – we head back in our rental car to Brisbane once again determined to beat the tolls. Did a little better this time but still got caught………next time!!!!!!!

YUCAIPA

Leaving Las Vegas we headed for Los Angeles. This now seems like a lifetime ago but unfortunately wifi has not been in our favour since leaving hence the long delay in updating our blog……….but yes we are still alive and well.

Leaving Vegas on a very delayed flight and our bags also being one of the last to come off the conveyor belt it was with great delight, when we finally walked out into the arrivals hall, to be greeted by the two smiling faces of Gary and Donna holding a huge welcome sign aloft with our names on. That was so very special……..thankyou both.

Whipping us quickly out of LA (thank goodness) to their hometown of Yucaipa, 2hours away, we were able to spend a relaxing 7 days getting to know them, their surroundings, their way of life and were thoroughly spoiled.

Donna and Gary you are the most generous and funny hosts and we enjoyed every moment we spent with you. From the “smores” to the “start the car” hilarity. Our trips to the supermarket and Walmart where everything seemed so big and bright. To Kohls where the discount seemed unending on the top quality clothes we bought and our trip to Palm Springs which was nothing like we had imagined it to be. The delicious Mexican food and good wine. Everything was tops.

However nothing was more amazing than our trip up a huge mountainside in a circular, rotating gondala and into the Mount San Jacinto National Park. That was just awesome seeing Palm Springs spread out below us surrounded by never ending desert. The panoramic views unbelievable.

We watched, with Donna and Gary, the American population elect Donald Trump over Hilary Clinton through to the early hours of the morning………..probably the least said about that though the better although our hosts seemed happy enough.  They were, like most of the American population, totally fed up with the whole process. In the words of Donna … “we all just need to move on”.

Looking forward to more “start the car – start the car” events when you visit us in New Zealand where we can do some more wine tasting together - yes the glasses survived their trip - and you can savour our beautiful Sauvignon Blancs in Nelson.

Till we meet again and once again a big thankyou to you both.

Safely delivered back to L.A airport with our livers intact we head to Brisbane and back to family for a few weeks. We are so looking forward to celebrating our youngest grandchild’s 3^rd birthday and catching up with our offspring.

LAS VEGAS

Flying from New York to Las Vegas - a 5hour plus flight - was great with American Airlines. We had the most amazing seats, just 2 together at the bulkhead and just behind business class. The food was good, the drinks plentiful and the flight staff happy and generous. The only downside was that we were charged $50 for our bags. We had been pre-warned that there would be a cost but $US25 per bag is a little exorbitant!!!
Arriving in Vegas the airport and runway are very busy and crowded with planes taking off and landing like some choreographed ballet. Once down on the ground the plane then has to run the gauntlet crossing the landing and take-off runways to get to it's final destination. Our transfer shuttle was there to meet us as arranged and our hotel was great. An hourly shuttle to Mandalay Bay Hotel at the beginning of the Strip was a life saver and we soon got to know our way around the Strip like a couple of old hands.
The strip was definitely an experience especially for our feet and there were some sights to behold I can tell you. Everything was big, loud, glitzy and smokey!!! Some sights took your breath away and others were just tacky though.
The Venetian was absolutely incredible once away from the casino area. You could actually imagine yourself being in Venice for real just on a smaller scale. The weird thing was that we were actually in the real Venice on exactly the same day 2 years earlier!!!!!!
Fountains choreographed to Bing Crosby songs were another highlight just outside the Bellagio Hotel. Treasure Island, Fashion Show, The Mirage, Ceasars Palace, Flamingo, Paris Hotel with the big Eifel Tower outside, New York New York, Walt Disney Excalibur Hotel, and Luxor were all worth a visit and all for their own special glitz and glamour. As we are not gambling people the casinos were not an attraction but most hotels and even the footpaths in certain places forced you to re-route through these smoke filled, crowded dens. In saying that I did decide to risk one US$ on a pokey and won 17cents!!!!!!
The biggest attraction was our helicopter trip to the Grand Canyon on Gary's birthday November 5th. It was soooo awesome. Never having been in a helicopter before, whilst conscious at least, this was a first experience for me and having ordered the champagne lunch drop at the base of the canyon as a birthday celebration for Gary the whole trip was beyond belief. This experience was made even more awesome of course by our pilot. The Canyon is spectacular in its own right but he made it even more so with his swooping, birdlike entrance and of course his endless knowledge. The lunch and champagne was great too as was the limousine ride to the airport. Think Gary had a good birthday.
Our next treat was another Cirque de Soliel show - Ka. This was at the MGM hotel and has been running for a few years now very successfully. Once again it was different to expectations, as was the New York show Paramour, but so so clever.
Freemont Street - the original Vegas Strip - was our next stop. Walking with eyes wide shut we shuffled down the street with a thousand and one other tourists. Before us there were definitely some extreme sights to behold - old men and very fat men in mankinis (not nice), skimpily dressed, semi naked young girls, toothless old women supporting themselves against trash cans looking for the next fix and dozens of Elvis Presleys. Contortionists, singers, dancers and long queues for the restaurants......all was in abundance. Every few minutes above us the zip lines buzzed the length of the street as their occupants screamed with delight and fake courage.
This street was not our scene, although we were pleased to have experienced it, so we decided to beat a hasty retreat. This retreat included crossing a very wide non busy road and as the closest car was way in the distance we decided we could make it across easily and ........jaywalked!!!!! What we didn't know was that the car in the distance was a police car which, seeing us starting to cross, accelerated and laid his hand on his bull horn continuously. Well we both jumped out of our skin - double cycling in the air - and, on hitting the opposing pavement safely whilst seeing the police car pulling over, we decided to split up (only slightly I might add) and remove our backpacks. Consumed with guilt we quietly walked separately to an awaiting bus to take us to the top of the strip and safely home. OMG sounds tame here but NOT - very scary.
So we definitely finished our Vegas week on a high and for all those asking the same question...........NO - WE DID NOT GET MARRIED!!!!!!!!

NEW YORK 2016

Taking the Heathrow Express from Paddington we caught our flight to New York via Zurich. Not too sure what happened but we had the most amazing seats on the longer flight from Zurich to New York just behind Business Class at the bulkhead. Plenty of leg room and no "chair in your face" from the person in front. The flight went quickly and was very comfortable.
Landing at Newark airport we took a yellow cab to our hotel in Jersey City.......very expensive!!!!!! The hotel was ok, the bed huge, the complimentary breakfast satisfactory but the best part was that it was in a relatively quiet area and close to the Path railway line which would take us to the World Trade Centre - the gateway to New York City. This we did most days.
The World Trade Centre is mind blowing - such an incredible building representing a dove in flight, wings spread wide. This building is huge as most things seem to be in America.
Ground zero where the twin towers once stood is beautiful. Each towers footprint is now a waterfall pond with the names of each person who lost their lives printed around the edges. It is a very moving and fitting memorial and it was pleasing to see that the land has been used in this way and not just rebuilt on.
Close by is St. Pauls Chapel which served as a place of rest and refuge for recovery workers after 9/11. It survived the devastation without even a broken window. Dust, dirt and smoke damaged the organ but that has since been refurbished.
This route took us onto Broadway, where we booked tickets for Paramour Cirque de Soliel, and into Chinatown......always a great area to explore and eat. Walking back along the other side of this section of Broadway we finally ended up in Battery Park then took the Staten Island Ferry past the statue of Liberty and back. Arriving back in Battery Park with beautiful views to take in we settled at a table and enjoyed a really cold beer. The day had been very hot, a lot of walking had been done and we definitely deserved it. Continuing on we found Wall Street and the financial section of NYC and absolutely exhausted we made our way back to our hotel. The sun went down on day 1.

Day 2 saw us taking the Path train again to WTC - we were getting good at this now - and a bus to 7th Avenue. Times Square was so much smaller than we had imagined but just as bright and magical as portrayed on TV. Spent a while there just looking and taking in the atmosphere then walked on to Central Park......once again HUGE. They were preparing for the NY marathon and the pavilion had just been opened but we wandered around happily in the sunshine. There are so many interesting things to see here. You can hire a bike to get around or take a horse and cart.......you could even skate if so desired!!!! We did none of these........shanks pony is our preferred choice of transport. The Natural History Museum was next on the list - very busy with heaps of children as this was a Saturday - but was a good experience. Tackling the metro system was our next challenge - very different to the London Underground and Paris Metro - and definitely lacking in helpful maps and directions..........but we made it to our destination ok and finally into Bryant Park. This was a great area which had been converted into a Winter Wonderland with Christmas Chalets filled with Christmas gifts and in the middle an ice skating rink filled with capable people skating, from very small to quite old. We watched spellbound and envious, it was a fabulous place, all lit up, but it suddenly became extremely dark and the heavens decided to open. Anticipating this we headed for a bar and restaurant in the park where we stayed for a couple of hours eating glorious Asian food and drinking New Zealand Sav.......perfect.
The rain began to ease fortunately and just in time for us to walk to the Lyric theatre on Broadway to see our show which was awesome. Cirque de Soliel wrapped inside a Broadway show - difficult to imagine but perfect, edge of the seat stuff.
Getting home was a mission.....walk, bus, walk, Path train, walk. So much walking!!!!! Exhausted.

Day 3 we took the Path train all the way to 23rd Street as full service had resumed after the weekend (strikes and closures for service seem to be the bane of our travelling life unfortunately). 23rd street took us close to Chelsea and of course the Chelsea Market which we wanted to explore. We were here at the height of Halloween and the market was totally decked out like a gruesome, Halloween cavern. This is in itself a very interesting market to visit - very eclectic, very artisan, very different. We actually managed to buy ourselves a pie here from an Ozzie pie stand - we were hanging out for one surprisingly. We were also hanging out for a juicy steak but were not prepared to pay NY prices - $US 54????
From Chelsea market we stepped up to walk the Highline. This is a walkway that has been established by using the old Railway line route. As defined it is high and runs between skyscrapers giving excellent views over NYC. We caught a glimpse - our second one - of The Empire State Building but unfortunately our day was cut short unexpectedly when I began to feel a "back attack" coming on. Getting home was a nightmare, stopping for a beer and a "Gary massage" on the way to try to relax the muscle spasm, we finally made it. Knock out medication taken by next morning I was back on track.

Day 4 we had to move hotels and chose to hire a private car for this. Hauling luggage from Jersey City to JFK was not an option under the circumstances and the price was reasonable and worth it.
We had one night in this hotel at the airport, not a place we would recommend, and next morning flew out to Vegas.

Not sure we allowed enough time in New York but packed in heaps and traveled miles in the time we had. Think we saw most of what we set out to see.

Next stop Vegas.

LONDON AND THE NORTH

Driving from Henfold Lakes after, once again, an Ali bacon butty, we headed for Crowborough where we could catch a train to Paddington and stay with Brenton for a weekend in his work's mews house which worked out perfectly for us all.
This is a fabulous place in the heart of Paddington close to the station which gives you access to most areas of London, either by walking, underground or train. It also worked well because everyone we wished to meet up with could get to this point.
And so it happened and a fabulous evening was spent eating dinner and drinking wine with Brenton, Eddie and Charlene, Ian and Sarah Louise. Everyone contributed a dish or two and we ate heartily and caught up majorly on what was happening in everyone's lives.
This was only a weekend stop so exploring a bit of the Paddington area was a must and a walk around Hyde Park also - somewhere I have never actually been.
Alas the weekend ended too soon and after a pizza at Brenton's favourite Italian restaurant we caught the train back to Crowborough where we did manage to catch up with Gary's sister-in-law Sandra for an hour or so.......very special Sandra and thank you for taking the time to visit us, it was lovely catching up even for a short while.
From Crowborough we drive to Ludlow and after 2 days at Home Farm, washing and cleaning, we take Molly to Morans and say our farewells. After a few minor repairs she will be on her way to Southampton. Thankyou Roger, Scott and Andy for everything. We may be back to do it all again??!!!!!
And hey we are on our way back to Paddington again, fully laden with suitcases and backpacks etc this time but we are old hacks at this game, know all the short cuts etc this time round but you still have to allow for the Southern train debacle!!!! Our first train running late caused us to miss our connecting train in Newport which caused us to arrive in Paddington in the rush hour which is not much fun.....but we made it heaving a sigh of relief.
Next stop a pub somewhere close????......NO not close at all!!!! These young ones forget that as we age we slow down!!!!!!! After a brisk route march with Brenton to somewhere we are there and so is Sarah Louise. A friend has brought her canal boat down towards Paddington and we all celebrate the event. Next stop the boat, where we meet Rob her new boyfriend who is definitely a keeper. She is happy, we are all happy for her, her boat is absolutely great so we go and eat Indian together to celebrate this too.
It is so good to catch up with these young people - they are interesting, vibrant Londoners with their lives and the world ahead of them. We so enjoy these moments we are able to spend together but dislike the goodbyes.
To all of you take care - we will miss you but we will catch up again next time round.
Our new adventure starts in the morning. New York, New York is calling and we are on our way.

SANTORINI

Securing a storage berth for Molly with "Big Dave" at Henfold Lakes and after downing a bacon sandwich and a cup of good coffee with Ali and "the other Dave" we headed for Gatwick Airport courtesy of "the other Dave". What a great service from this amazing campsite - complete door to door service and to top it off "the other Dave" was prepared to pick us up on our return, at 12.30am, and "Big Dave" was happy to put Molly on a site and hook her up so that we could sleep comfortably when we arrived back as well. My gosh.....that is service with a smile!!!!!! Thank you so much to all of you.
So off to Santorini but no.............this was not so simple as it happens. Firstly we were flying with Norwegian Airlines.....mmmm not so sure about this company any more.......secondly we were heading into a Greek air traffic controllers strike and thirdly the wrong plane ...?????.....had been sent to Gatwick for this flight....something to do with the amount of thrusters it had, apparently not enough?? Over the hours of waiting at the gate where the flight was delayed, then off, then on, then off again, moved to another gate, hotel and food vouchers distributed etc etc we witnessed some very aggressive, rude and totally unnecessary behaviour from both sides of the counter and although we missed out on any vouchers and hot food on the plane that finally got us to our destination at 1.45am the following morning, we remained upbeat and ok about our experience. The only thing we ask of airlines is to treat us with respect and tell us the truth - fabrication is not necessary and brings out the worst in many people.
Even at 1.45am our transfer was waiting to take us to our hotel on the far side of the island of Santorini and we were happy with our choice. Hotel Notus was built in the old ice making factory by the side of a peaceful, little fishing harbour where sunset cruises could be taken from.......the sunsets there are amazing but we had no need to move any further than from Flo's verandah to watch them.
Our surprise was that a few days before we were due to leave for Santorini Flo decided to join us and whilst we had a room overlooking the harbour his was on the sunset side so we had the best of both worlds. We loved having Flo there with us, we hired a car, had fun, ate plenty, drank a lot, swam, sunbathed, read books and walked endlessly. The whole week was perfect.....secretly though I think Flo is a closet boy racer!!!!!!!
Exploring Santorini was wonderful. Once again every which way you turn there is something exotic and different to see. Thira was magical, the white and blue of the cuboid buildings striking. The weather was perfect and the food exceptional. There were donkeys to take you down the mountainsides and as you walked the walls and the alleyways the smells and colours assaulted your senses. Gyros was the best there and cheap. Although it was busyish we still managed to find a park and not feel rushed through our day. Stopping for a beer here and food there the day was perfect.
Our hotel had a bar in an old windmill which unfortunately was about to close for the season but Joanne made a wicked Mojita......or two!!!!!! Only God knows what Gary and Flo were drinking because I am sure she made them up as she went along!!!!!! We spent a couple of evenings there but it was a little sad when it closed. There were a couple of Greek restaurants close by i.e Dimitries!!! and one evening we decided to call in for Baclava. We arrived and were welcomed, sat down and I asked for Baclava. At that stage they started water blasting the windows and the water was going everywhere - Dimitri was soaked to the skin laughing his head off, the curtains were soaked and there was a river running through the restaurant. To cap it off the Baclava was rancid ........ should have realised things were not right as we were the only people there. Flo told us Dimitri sings?????.......maybe that is why no one goes there.
We did find a cute but tired local restaurant in the harbour where the fishermen eat. It was cheap, plentiful and very good food cooked over coals - the downside here was the crazy dog trying to dig a hole through the tiled floor?????
Our next trip was to Oia, similar to Thira but a lot less touristy. This town literally spills down the hillside and the white walls and houses look like icing dripping down the side of a cake. Walking down the side of the cliffside takes you into Amoudy Bay which for us was the perfect find. Settled at the edge of the Agean Sea it is like no other place we have visited. We arrived in a quiet time, few tourists in October, which again made it perfect. Flo and Gary filled their tummies with Squid, Octopus, some wierd fish, Greek salad and Tzatziki and I had Haloumi........the perfect meal in the most perfect place with the most perfect weather and the sea the clearest of aqua coloured water.
Gosh Santorini did us proud - we loved every moment.
We visited a lighthouse right on the edge of a cliff - ate Indian in Perissa and visited a vineyard....somewhere? The whole island is dry, volcanic and barren. The vineyards - well I am not sure how they produce grapes - they are scraggly, scrawny, old vines finding their own way on the dry landscape, propped up here and there with a brick or two or maybe a rock. They wind the vines round and round the stem to form a nest to provide shelter from the cold and keep in the moisture. The wine tasted more like old Chardonnay or sherry and was disgusting!!!!
Our hotel had a spa pool, plunge pool, sauna and massage rooms, all in cave like areas where the ice was originally stored in the factory so, after all our walking, climbing and driving we decided to take advantage of  them all. This just added another plus to this hotel as it was all at no extra charge.
All in all our trip to Santorini was 10 out of 10 and adding Flo to the mix made it 20 out of 10. Thanks Flo for being our chauffeur for the week, we so enjoyed your company.
Santorini is a definite bucket list place if you have not already been. I personally would not stay in Thira or Oia we were happy where we were - maybe a little isolated but perfect for us. To remember: everything closes late October but when we were there the weather was still perfect - sunny and hot.
Our trip back to Gatwick was uneventful, "the other Dave" was at the airport to meet us and Molly was all ready and waiting for us. Downside.........it was bloody cold back in the UK.
Sleep well, for tomorrow we head for Crowborough to start preparing Molly for shipping to NZ but also to spend a weekend in London with Brenton and to catch up with Eddie, Charlene, Ian and Sarah Louise.
Till then xxx

FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN PART 2 AND UK

Now we are about to just "pop into France" to meet up with our great UK friends who we first met in Split Croatia - Calum and Jane - they operate "The fun bus" as we operate Molly Bolero or Molly B for short. (Molly A we have not forgotten you).
As we leave Alquezar we backtrack a little through Huerto de Vero, Pozan de Vero and Castilla Zuelo and past El Grado - where there is a huge power station perched on the hillside - and Abizanda and Samitia. We are starting to climb from the Lower to the Haute (high) Pyranees and the drive is spectacular. We are driving through everyday Spain, as opposed to tourist Spain, as we barrel through Mediano and past Castejon taking in all the small villages straddling the hilltops around us. Morillo de Tar flashes past as does L'Ainsa and Labuerda which sits under the watchful eye of a huge mountain.
We are on the Pyranian Aragonis route where the roads are now quite twisty and narrow and at La Fortunada we are faced with a huge truck whizzing around a sharp lefthander and well over the centre white line. Remember we are right hand drive but driving on the right too which leaves me as a passenger slightly more than exposed. There is also nothing to our right but a steep drop. How Gary managed to avoid a collision I do not know - maybe he just closed his eye and went for it??? but it was definitely time for a coffee and a talk with the universe after that one.
Which we did, beside a river and just before the border between Spain and France, at Bielsa.
Snow poles are now starting to appear at 1800metres and we are definitely in the High Pyranees now. A long tunnel appears and when we finally come out the other end we are in France - just like that - and our descent begins which feels as though it goes on and on forever. Open roads, no side protection or barriers just massive drops if you unfortunately misjudge, and continuous hair-pin bends as we snake down through Aragnouet Chambrere, Aragnouet and Aragnouet Moudang, Eget and Cite. We go through many avalanche tunnels, past the ski town of St Lary, through Boursip and Ancizan and we are now on the Route de la Lacs. Beyrede is next and we are in the Vallee du Louron where we pass through Sarrancolin - a very Australian looking place - Rebouc, Heches and Bartle-de Nest and we are at our destination????? .....NOT!!!!
We have been travelling East instead of West since coming off the Haute Pyranees and we are 2hours and 15mins off course. Setting a new journey in the GPS we set off again without an angry word spoken but we did laugh a lot.
Yep we are heading for Lourds - definitely correct now - Escala, Semeac, Tarbes, Bruges through the very green and fertile Vallie de Ossau and we are at our destination?????? .....NOT!!!!!!!  Resetting the GPS again we discover Camping le Rey is just 100 yards along the road as are Calum and Jane waiting patiently.
Many hours were spent under the stars that very late afternoon and evening talking, drinking and eating fabulous "Calum cooked" food, until well into the early hours when words were beginning to be heard to slur and eyes started drooping. It was such a great catchup and it is always the spontaneous ones that are the best.
Unfortunately the next morning it was raining which scuppered our cooked breakfast ideas but we were all ready to continue on our separate ways - Calum and Jane to continue their European journey and us to head for the Bilbao ferry which heralds the closeness of the ending of this particular journey for us in Molly B. Big hugs and kisses all round and fond adieus and see-you-soons (because we know we will) and we were on the road again, this time heading to Ondres, North of Biarritz for two nights to break the journey to Bilbao.
Nothing special in Ondres at all. A small market in the town centre on the Sunday but not a pretty or inviting town and sadly lacking in any cafes or restaurants. The camp was due to close on the day we were leaving, the wifi didn't work, the swimming pool and restaurant were closed and to be honest there was only ever 3 of us there at any one time, which causes me to question why, on both nights, someone drove in right beside us on night one and behind us on night two? this camp was medium size with lots of lovely places to park.
Anyway we were the last to leave on their closing day and as they thanked us for coming, profusely waved goodbye, they closed the gates on their season......right behind us!!!!!
It is Monday and Bilbao is calling - the ferry is booked so we head once again for Spain through the Basque country. Tarnes, Bayonne, Biarritz and just after Hendaye we cross back into Spain and our journey to the Port of Bilbao, where we will spend the night parked on the docks, suddenly becomes a nightmare with heavy trucks barrelling along narrow coastal roads - they wait or slow down for no-one, forcing others to continuously pull over and stop - but hey this is Spain and we are sure it can only get better. This is, in fact, correct because suddenly we are rural again but, just as suddenly, we are slap bang into big and busy again in Orio and following this yo-yo day we now driving along a very scenic coastline, reminicent of Kaikoura, and Zarautz, Zumia and Tolasa flash past. From Deba we drive through deep gorges and valleys following the river and then, quite suddenly, the scenery changes again at Bizkaia and the towns, Mallabia, Zaldibar Beriz and Iuretta are pure ugly with with concrete jungles of apartment blocks and one has the feeling we are in Russia not Spain. This is definitely not a pretty part of Spain by a long shot but now we are nearly at the Port and it is a breeze. You can check in the day before your ferry, between 4pm and 7pm, and stay in your lane on the dock overnight and hey...........we arrive dead on 4pm and passport and check-in is open and there is no one else in sight. This has got to be good don't you think?
Mmmmmm obviously others have done this before and know the system well for when we arrive at our lane people are well ensconsed with their chairs and tables out, cooking tea and basking in the last of the days sunshine. Looks funny and ridiculous all at the same time so we are happy to escape the cigarette smoke and loud Yorkshire accents and relax inside Molly B. We are happy to be here in one piece with all our mirrors and bells and whistles and the sea looks calm which, to me, is a big bonus.
Lulled to sleep by the continuous drone of generators we both slept quite well, surprisingly, and were one of the first motorhomes to be called on board but firstly we had to get through Passport Control which was not so easy. The nice gentleman in his booth took Garys passport, flicked through it, put it in his passport reader scanner, left his booth saying " Un momento" and was a full 5 minutes before he returned with a huge smile on is face saying "Stamp, Stamp" and gave the passport back grinning from ear to ear. Relieved we drove on towards the boat only to be faced with a huge, juddery ramp to climb. By this stage my heart was in my mouth but a quick climb, a quick swivel on the spot at the far end of the boat and then a drive back to the front we were high fiving it.......first on - first off!!!!!!
The cabins were great on board, we had a window this time, and the beds comfortable which was good because that was where I spent most of my time fighting nausea and a spinning head which no longer seemed connected to my body. This is a 24hour crossing through the Bay of Biscay and it was the swell that got me. The sea was calm - no white caps at all - but that swell!! Anyway it was a good crossing all in all for Gary and the next morning being called to our deck we were happy to be in a position where we would quickly off load and get on our way. This was not to be - first on, last off in our case because Gary had to reverse out of this little spot after everyone else had disembarked, apart from the truck in front of us. Then it was the Passport experience again with Gary only on the UK side - so many questions!!!! When did this all happen? Finally we were away and driving on the left hand side on Motorways to Chertsey where we planned to stay a few nights, store Molly B for a few nights whilst we did our trip to Santorini and then stay a few more nights on our return.
This arrangement did not quite work out as planned as they had no storage space and we could not leave it on site for 8 days whilst we were away because it was a flood prone site - the Thames runs through it!!!!!!!
Cutting a long story short - Neil to the rescue. He phoned his storage place and arranged that. He organised a lift to Gatwick airport for us from the storage place and tomorrow we head for Santorini and warm weather. Thanks Neil for getting us out of that mess - very much appreciated.
We are packed and all ready to fly tomorrow. xxx

ALQUEZAR

The beauty of this village for us was overwhelming and quite rightly deserves a whole post of it's own. This is the place we truly felt at home during our tour of Northern Spain.
Driving towards Alquezar, which is in the foothills of the Pyranees, and rounding one of Spain's notorious hair-pin bends, we sight this unbelievable hotch-potch of Spanish houses looking as though they are struggling to latch on to the side of the craggy mountainside. From its midst a majestic church/castle erupts baking under the azure, blue sky and hot Spanish sun. Everywhere is arid dry and tussocky........in this moment our hearts are captured. Alquezar is extremely isolated but is surrounded by amazing mountains and deep valleys where canyoning is very popular with young people.
We have headed South to find this place Gary has picked out from our ACSI book (he is such a whiz at finding these special places) travelling through Pont, where we buy bread and lettuce from the town square market (such are the necessities of life), across vast, arid, dusty plains, through countless haphazard vineyards (typically Spanish) past Termens and Llada and on to Benifar. We are now very rural and the vista is just incredible - small patches of agricultural land scratched into the dry earth supporting goodness only knows what and then a scrubby, small paddock supporting half a dozen cows clanging their bells as they forrage for a morsel of food and suddenly..........we are engulfed by ancient Olive trees!!!!!!! Driving through these we arrive at Huertade Vero and then Camping Alquezar - in the absolute middle of nowhere.
The campsite is great though and not at all busy so we are, once again, surprised when a couple from the Netherlands park beside us, with their door facing ours, and proceed to have several, quite loud disagreements. The weather is hot and sunny so windows and doors are wide open for all to hear. They were so close we could hear them chewing their cornflakes the next morning.
Escaping this trauma the next morning we walked into Alquezar. This, of course, was mainly uphill but along the roadside wild fennel and rosemary had just been cut so the aromatic smells were calming and encouraging and the views over the Sierra Park and Canyons of Guara breathtaking. .
Alquezar is a mediaeval village in Huesca, Aragon, Spain perched on top of a mountainous rock carved out by the river Vero which ultimately forms the deep canyons surrounding the town and in this area in general. The Moorish town itself is something else and eyes are wide open as you enter through the Gothic gate and step back in time. We spent a whole day wandering through discovering hidden gems like; an extremely small place for the townspeople to use for worship instead of having to climb the hill each time to the church (apparantly this used to be a cobblers shop); a cute artisan bakery that sold bread and cakes but also pulled beer; wherever we looked ancient history jumped out at us in the architecture, the cobbled streets and the old people. Alquezar itself was very steep in places but there was just so much to see. Walking to the very top to the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria, originally a castle built in the 8th Century which was consecrated by the Christians in 1099, the cobbles were so well worn they were shiny and slippery. Just imagine the thousands of people who have climbed to the church before us to repent their sins for this to have happened. The church was closed when we finally got to the top but it wasn't long before a Quasimodo sort of guy came and opened the door with an extremely large, rusty key. Have to say my imagination ran riot here too. The trip to the church was worth it all in the end though for its history, its frescos, its organ, its views, its battlements, its grandeur, its creaky wooden stairs and its bells whose mechanism was weighted by a very basic, huge rock??!!
Alquezar is a Unesco World Heritage site and as I say we loved it. It is a place to walk and a place to wander. Eagles breed on the mountain top and it is a joy to watch them soar in the sky looking for their prey.
Walking back down to the campsite we stop for a bite to eat at the Camp restaurant which is a set menu at a vastly different price to those in Alquesar. We possibly eat too much and undoubtedly drink too much but it seems a fitting end to a fabulous day. We must leave tomorrow and head back into France to meet with Calum and Jane but this place has a certain attraction and everyone should put it on their bucket list. We certainly wouldn't hesitate to return.

NORTHERN SPAIN PART ONE

Northern Spain how we love you!!!!! You are rugged, sunny, dry, barren but beautifully unspoiled. We travelled through the "real" Spain, relishing in it's beauty, each day feeling the warmth of the sun on our bodies. It was at this point that we came to the realisation we are "travelers" not "tourists". Roses helped us to think in this direction. To our mind Roses is for tourists and, although we enjoyed our 3 nights there with friends Roses was not for us. However the journey to Roses was and, as we continue to say, it is not always the place but often the journey that is inspirational. This was a 5hour drive over the Grande Central Massif mountain range which would eventually take us from France to Spain.
As we drive through the final valleys of France heading towards Barcelona the vineyards look unkempt and different. These are unsupported vines, very old, that are allowed to ramble along the ground in a higgledy piggeldy fashion giving rise to this feeling that they are not tended or looked after. It appears that most of these very old vines and this way of growing grapes is being replaced with the more modern method of posts and wires.
Passing Sete we drive onto a very flat and windy plain and Molly B is being buffeted all over the place as we cross huge viaducts. Hurrying past Beziers, Coursan, Narbonne and Sigean we are surprised as to just how many campers are around and secretly hope that most are heading home.
As we past Roquefort we come down off the high plain onto this amazingly straight old Roman road and, after making a few errors on the roads in Perpignan, we finally emerge out the other side and head along the Route de Vins via the Cote Vermille. Driving along the very narrow, twisty coastal road is spectacular. The sea is azure blue and the rocks gleaming white in the sunshine but it is also extremely scary and the French and Spanish are not the best of drivers. Port Vendres,  Banyuls-sur-Mer (absolutely, breathtakingly gorgeous) and Cerbera pass and suddenly we are in Spain. Surprisingly the fact we have crossed the border is very apparent. The road condition changes, there are no more stone bridges but metal barriers on the hair pin bends and the style of houses change too. Portbou, Colera and Llanca pass and finally we are at our destination Camping Salata, Roses.
There is a big sign at the entrance - SORRY WE ARE FULLY BOOKED, NO SPACES!!!!!!!
Undeterred we sneaked through the barrier as another van was let in and headed for reception. "We have just one pitch left - you can have that or nothing - but I am sorry it is expensive". Well of course it is because it is a lifesaver!!!!!
Driving to the site, seeing all the campervans and caravans parked cheek by jowl and with our hearts in our mouth we found our site. Now, remembering we are a 7metre long van, quite tall and reasonably wide we were faced with a narrow strip of grass with a huge willow tree slap in the middle of it. In spectacular style we did not panic nor get upset but Gary very efficiently reversed between the tree and next door neighbours awning whilst I quietly hacked at the willow tree with a pair of scissors so we could at least open the door. We found our friends in this vast sea of canvas and metal, Gillian and Alan, and had a lovely evening with them at a local restaurant but even they said they found our patch depressing. We spent 3 nights here, walked along the Roses sea front and explored the Old City but that was enough for us so we upped camp and headed for Olot where Gary had spied the most amazing campsite????..........AND IT WAS AMAZING TOO.
Camping Montagut, just outside of Olot in Montagut, was fabulous. We stayed for 5 nights and it was here we realised how old and beautiful northern Spain is. Not 400 meters from the camp was an ancient bridge, lightly resembling a portal from a science fiction movie, forming an almost perfect O as the bridge went over the top of the O and the water flowed through the O. This bridge, however, was built in c1400, was hand built and if you let your imagination run really riot you could imagine the donkeys loaded with supplies tracking a route over this cobbled bridge. It was absolutely mind blowing, out of this world and in the middle of nowhere........ where most great places and things seem to be.
The rest of our time in Montagut was spent swimming, reading, cleaning, washing, blogging, doing onward bookings and generally lazing around. The weather was great however something always tells you when it is time to move on and this time it was....ANTS!!!!!!!
Happy to leave to escape the ant invasion - they were marching up the water outlet into Molly B and invading the cupboards - we set of with the main intention of having a look around Andorra and settled on a campsite a few kilometres away but still in Spain. From Montagut, in the Lower Pyranees we go through our first tunnel - Tunel de Mont- Ros, Olot, La Canya, Hostelnou de Bianya then on through several more tunnels (if you remember I loathe tunnels) and into the Valley of Bianya. La Colonia Llaudet is the next village, St Joan de les Abadesses (a large town), Ripoll (where we stop and stock up on cheap Gin, Wine and food in that order) and then we emerge into open countryside and are travelling East to West through Northern Spain and the sights are incredible. Some would say the scenery was dry and boring but we actually felt so at home here. Les Lolsses and Matamala both have churches in the village and both are dedicated to Santa Maria. The hillsides are dotted with farm houses - we are at 930metres - and cows are now in abundance. It is quite difficult terrain for the farmers to scrub out a living here but every now and then a perfectly ploughed field can be seen surrounded by scrub and trees.
Although we are on a 2 lane road it is very narrow and twisty once again and suddenly we are going through thick forest.
Borreda is our next stop where we spy a 'restaurant' with a very uneven carpark and workmen frequenting so we decide to stop for a "menu del dia" costing 10Euro 50 cents. Once again this is totally out in the sticks! We walk in with all the workmen and are profusely welcomed by the locals and immediately we feel at home. In the middle of the room is a huge buffet with absolutely every possible food you could think of (it takes 5 mins to do a circuit and that is without collecting any food!). This is only the FIRST course and then you have a SECOND course of hot cooked meat/fish/rabbit/chicken and vegetables and bread. Bottled water, a bottle of red wine (not for us this lunchtime), a selection of about 7 deserts and coffee. How do they do it? So cheap and so tasty. The Spanish locals were happy to help us understand the process by hand gesticulations and snippets of English and it was really so much fun. We definitely left there replete and probably didn't eat for the next two days?!.
Continuing our journey we travel back into the mountains and at Vilada there is a huge aqua lake right at the very top and as we drop down again into the valley driving through La Valldan and Avia we are back in agricultural countryside, no cows now but crops and corn. Climbing up again we are now in different, very rocky territory and there is evidence of many slips. At Espunyola we turn right and climb again - this is a fascinating journey - and then zig zag down this one lane road. All the time I have my fingers crossed that nothing will meet us coming the other way. We are now travelling through the Valley of Death and I can truly understand why it was named such and then we are climbing again to Naves where there are cows and calves again and chicken or pig houses and the sun is shining and the whole "being here" thing is fantastic.
From Solsona we climb again and the panoramic views are just incredible and the sky so blue. Castella de la Ribera, Ogern and Oliana (with it's enormous dam) wizz past but we are so absorbed in the amazing rock formations we hardly notice the villages now.
We go through tunnel after tunnel now and I am almost a nervous wreck but we are getting close to Camping Gran Sol and finally we out of the rocky mountainous areas and back into normal bush clad countryside. Organya, El Pla de Sant Tirs (where of all things there is a go karting track), Adrall, Monteferrel and then the campsite on the absolute flat thank goodness.
From here we drove to Andorra which was disgustingly busy and congested, parked our camper for half an hour and drove back out again. To be honest it was a huge disappointment although Gary did get a new hoody and I did manage to get some coriander from a store on the way out. Deisel was 87cents a litre so we filled up which was a bonus but were stopped and totally searched on the way out. Under the beds, in the bathroom, in the wardrobe plus the outside lockers. Asking how much money we had with us I burst into nervous laughter and he asked me why I was laughing. Not a very pleasant experience and not sure what they were looking for but enough for us to say it is a place we would not return to in a hurry.
The positive side to our stay here though was meeting Alex and Catherine - a young British couple who have sold EVERYTHING, given away their jobs and are  cycling Europe for as long as it takes for them to decide what their next move will be. Kindred spirits. We drank beer and wine and chatted late into the night and it was our pleasure to have met them. Our respect for them was huge!!!!!!
We all left the next morning - us to Alquezar and them to Pont. Passing them on the highway we were amazed how far they had gone - maybe it had something to do with Gary loading Catherine up with licorise allsorts before she left?????

HEADING FOR SPAIN

Heading to Camping d'Isle just on the edge of the medieval village of Beauleigh-sur-Dordogne we passed through many very small typical French villages (St Pierre Loufelle, Relacoy, Labastide Murat, Goudou, Le Bastit, Lavergne, Gary and Alltilac), skirting round the larger towns of Sedez, Cahors and Bretenaux and found ourselves in a rather dreary campsite overrun by very large trees, very soggy after continuous heavy rainfall and half closed!!!!! All the indicators were pointing to our need to head South and into Spain for better weather. (As I write this blog we are in Spain and are experiencing the most dramatic thunderstorm and torrential rain only surpassed by our Langkawi experience!!!)
The Medieval village was interesting, beautiful, very round and is entered or exited through La Porte Sainte-Catherine. Old villages were built in this fashion in medieval times for protection purposes and in the centre is always a magnificent church in the village square. In this case the church was named Sainte- Catherine. Narrow lanes spread from the centre square like spokes in a wheel and down each of these spokes can be found wonderful, ancient houses predominantly made from wood and straw (and obviously stuff that sticks the straw together, maybe mud or clay?) which scream cute and French. Honestly the higgledy piggaldy, colourful architecture is to die for. Adding to this the streets are cobbled, with the cobbles on their sides making walking quite uncomfortable but still none the less cute and it is all sooooo old!!!!! Just imagine who walked these cobblestoned streets before us!!!!! The original village water-well is now filled with an abundance of purple, pink and white flowers. This is what Gary and I thrive on and why we avoid the big newer cities. We could have stayed here longer and the sun had finally shown her face but the village was starting to be inundated with tourists and walking groups and we needed to move on again to Lempes-sur-Allagnon which would get us one step closer to Spain.
Setting off after our early morning tour of Beauleigh we, once again, opted for the scenic roads rather than the motorways. As I said earlier this takes us through true French villages rather than tourist towns. (We have decided we are "travellers" not "tourists"!) So Aitillac, La Chapelle St. Gerard, Sexcles, Goulle (where we had our last, fabulous Menu de Formulae lunch), St Paul des Landes, Espinat, Yolet, Polminhac and Vic-sur-Cere are all very, very pretty and some worthy of a hasty stop. We are, once again, in a very beautiful part of the French countryside. We are driving through valleys, rolling hills, green trees and bush. There are little red-tiled villages and generous chateaux dotted here-and-there on the hillsides. We are travelling along the "Circuit du Monts du Cantal" (the Cantal Mountain scenic route) and it is all very green and lush.
At the top of the mountain range at St. Jacques des Blats, we drive through a very long tunnel (if you remember tunnels are not my thing) into Le Lioran and then begin our downward descent round hair-pin bends with either stone walls or steep drops to the side. It is a good road though and even though we have been at a reasonable high altitude it has been easy with Molly B.
Passing through Murat, Ussel and Rofflac we arrive at St Flour - another large walled city - but decide to take the motorway past and head directly through to Lempdes via the Vallie de Allagnon. Descending into Massiac - a very long and protracted descent it was too with only the thin white line separating this way and that way - heaven forbid we finally made it to our campsite "Le Pont de Allagnon". Remember this place and don't ever go there. Lempdes itself is absolutely nothing and the campsite? ....... we actually could not, and still cannot, find words to describe it. Downright filthy comes to mind but that is probably too bland. What a waste of time and diesel is sufficient but I did let them know before we left.
So the next day we backtrack up the long descent back to St Flour, take another little peak of the houses clinging onto the cliff edges and head for Millau. 163kms on the motorway, back over the Cantals, through the Gorge du Tarn, back into the Vallie du Lot (but further down  this time - East I think) and to our next campsite Les 2 Rivieres in Millau.
Millau is quite a large town with an Old Town within and this, of course, is where we head for. It is about an 8 minute walk from the campsite over the bridge and the town is happy, The streets treelined and bustling. An absolute pleasure to be in. The Old town is small with narrow streets and tall, old, rickety buildings which sometimes seem to bulge and push against each other but.........they are very old and are still standing!!!!!! We had a lovely lunch in an old Cave here, had a good look around the fresh food and fish market in the town square and on our first night were entertained by a marching band as they passed close to the campsite marking the opening of a new promenade. All in all I would give Millau a 10/10 - it is old but upmarket and definitely looking after it's infrastucture. The Camp was OK too.
Two nights was enough here though so we plugged Roses, Spain into the GPS and the next morning we were off. We were soooooooooo looking forward to Roses and Camping Salata as it had been recommended to us by other people we had met along this journey.
Did we like it when we got there? You will just have to wait for my next blog.
Enjoy xxxx

THE DORDOGNE AND THE LOT FRANCE

THE DORDOGNE.
We have so been looking forward to completing the Dordogne journey we started a couple of years ago now. It is such a picturesque area of France and we managed only to see a small portion on our last trip. We are excited as we pass through Brive-Les-Gillard and see the "Welcome to the Dordogne" sign. The landscape changes, we are back in the agricultural areas again and the sunshine is beautiful. Driving through Terrasson, La Galibe, La Lardon Saint Lazarre and La Machont we stop in Montignac briefly to take a few photos. Unfortunately it is siesta time and everywhere is closed but it is also too hot to be out and about for too long (no complaints though). One of the special things about France is that they do provide ample parking space close to most towns and villages which are big enough for a campervan to park and are also FREE.
Happy that we stopped just for a short while we were anxious to move on to the more exciting parts of the Dordogne and after driving through Thonac and Le Moustier we happened across the Maison Forte de Reignac which was so incredibly not busy it was a pleasure to visit. This is now an historic chateau built into a cliff face and comprises several levels. It is 18 thousand years old, originally inhabited by cave men and mammoths, over time evolving as a fort and then a chateaux. It is now purely a tourist attraction but is maintained impeccably in the Edwardian era. The Dordogne is famous for its cliff-face architecture which is a wonder to behold and what we noticed as we wandered through the different levels was the natural temperature control in each room on each level. Although we perused the chateau for hours sadly we needed to move on but could have stayed much longer such was the captivating nature of this place.
We were heading for Limeuil so we toddled through Tursac, Les Eyzies de Tarrac, Campagne and La Bougue where unfortunately on a narrow road and a right hand bend a manic French driver towing a canoe trailer approached us at a pace of knots with his trailer hanging over the centre line. BANG - one of the steel bars on the trailer made contact with the mirror and the noise was horrendous. Fortunately the actual mirror was only loosened and was able to be pushed back in place and we have a scuff mark on the outside plastic but the French slow down for nothing however narrow and windy the road is or however big the opposing traffic might be.
Staying 3 nights at La Porte de Limeuil campsite was lovely. We had a good private site, the river with beaches, a fabulous swimming pool and spa, a really cheap bar and restaurant on site and another pretty French Village to explore within a few metres of the camp. Run by a very excitable French couple it was a great place to have found and eventually very hard to leave. Before we did though we spent a morning in the village which boasted maybe 3 shops and a massage therapist but it was so so cute. The church was at the very top - these villages are always steep it seems - and inside a man was playing popular, but appropriate, music on the electric organ with his smelly dog lying beside him. It was quite special really - the music not the dog that is - as the acoustics were so good. We discovered a little restaurant on our way back down where we had a Formulae lunch and a half bottle of Rose wine. These are the great things you can do in France and the food is heavenly - always. Friday evening a few of us congregated down at the river to hear a band playing great music in a restaurant at the base of the village..The following morning we left for just a short trip along the Dordogne river to another campsite with great potential - according to the book that is!!!!!
We were now reliving our last trek along this part of the Dordogne through Siorac Perigord, St Cyprien, Beynac et Cazenac, La Roque Gageac only to find it was chocker block with tourists. We were fortunate enough previously to see it during a quiet time and it was so, so beautiful - this time we drove on through, not stopping till we arrived at a spectacular castle in Monfort where we managed to shoot off a few photos but couldn't find a legal park. So Carsac, Grolejac, Veyrignac (bit of a theme going on here), St Julien de Lampon all whizzed past, very narrow winding roads through fields of sunflowers and cute villages winding in rythmn with the splendid Dordogne. Heading in land to Le Roc where we met a paragliding team we finally arrived at Souillac, our destination, and all was not well.
We really should have appreciated the signs when Kate (our GPS) took us down a narrow, hedge-lined lane which culminated in an immense block of painted concrete. Reversing out with the freshly cut hedge scraping the side mirrors for a few hundred yards does not make for a very happy Gary nor a very happy Cathie either. When we finally got to the site-entrance it was all locked up for "Siesta time" and pleased we were too. Everywhere and everything was covered in white dust within and without the campsite and as vehicles moved around great clouds of whiteness enveloped everything. Long story short we barrelled out of there in our own cloud of dust leaving grey, not green, trees behind deciding to bite the bullet and move from the Dordogne to the Lot river. We had been warned that the Dordogne had become over touristed and the Lot was as the Dordogne had been a few years ago and they were jolly correct. We were relieved we had seen the Dordogne in all it's beauty at the right time and now was our opportunity to explore The Lot.
We were not disappointed at all.

THE LOT
Our destination was Juillac and a small campsite on the Lot called Camping Florias. We had met an English couple, John and Glenda, at St Germain Les Belles who were on the way to this site and were eager to meet up again with us here. It meant turning our short drive along the Dordogne to a very long drive to the Lot but the call of that loopy river was very strong.
The drive was fantastic but hair-raising also. Most of the villages we drove through are too small to even appear on the map and many had height and width restrictions that we just managed to scrape under and through but the magical charm of these places made it all worth while. Lanzac, Payrac, Pont de Rhodes and Mas de Camp. Heading across country to Boissierres, where we encountered a warning - (2metre gap) - between houses, Nousjouls, Le Causse, Crayssac, La Bastide du Vert, Castlefranc, Anglais and finally Juillac. This journey has very few photos - to be honest it was too scary to take my eyes off the road!!!!!
We stayed in Juillac for 10 nights. The weather was perfect, as was the river, as was the company. Sometimes as we travel we come across a site that is perfect and this was one of those special ones. John and Glenda, Jan and Rob, Hettie, Steve and Lydnsey you are all amazing. We miss you all so much and wish we could have stayed longer but alas we had to move on.
It is not often that one comes across another Gary but to our constant amazement we did - in John. They look not at all alike but the expressions, sayings and sense of humour were seriously the exact same. Glenda was heard to say "John I cannot believe I am hearing your sayings coming out of Gary's mouth!" To this end, of course, we were set to have some serious fun times. Glenda and John did in fact spoil us, as they had a car and good knowledge of the region, taking us far and wide to explore the local and not so local area. We saw small, typically French villages we would otherwise not have had the ability to see and we will forever remain grateful. We had formulae lunches in all kinds of restaurants and villages, a curry evening, a fake farewell to Cathie and Gary evening (we decided we really couldn't leave the next day after all) and each evening we would meet for drinks after dinner at someones campsite. There were: John (marine biologist) and Glenda (Geography teacher), Rob (undertaker) and Jan (burser). Hettie (a policewoman from the Netherlands - small, strong and very fit. Has done several missions in Afganistan keeping people safe where her life has been on the line. She has just returned from her last mission and is now training riot police, is a police driving and swimming instructor. You name it she is it - she is also a very quick draw on the gun!!!!!) Quite a mixed bunch when you include us but we all got on like a house on fire. Jan 70+ ran and swam in the river each morning before breakfast, then she and her husband cycled for what seemed like most of the day all over the region. Jan also cooked amazing food in her camper - the smells wafting our way were heavenly.
No smells from Glenda and Johns caravan though - Glenda does not cook on holiday and good on her (I mean why would you when you can get a 3 or 4 course meal with wine at lunchtime for 13Euro50) - but they do bike ride, increasing their milage every day come rain or shine. They also like Mille Fueille just like me!!!!  Hettie also cycled everywhere and we really missed our bikes this time (we gave them away as they had become quite rusty in storage) as we were surrounded there with beautiful bikerides through vineyards and villages. So walking was our main form of transport here and we did a lot of that even though it was quite steep in many places and very hot.
We walked to Belay, a village high on a hill overlooking the valley and were rewarded with a savoury crepe and salad for our troubles. The view overlooking the valley was just incredible and the weather so perfect. We walked through the vineyards to Preysacc - hours away - and discovered the Pukeko Cafe run by a New Zealander from the North Island serving really cold beer. Small things mean a lot sometimes. Walking towards Castlefranc one day we stumbled across an experimental vineyard where they bring rootstock and vines from Argentina and Chile to grow in the French climate and different French soil compositions. A lovely lady explained it all to us and gave us a tasting of an incredibly smooth wine and, of course, we had to buy a couple of bottles didn't we?. At 9Euros a bottle though it was quite expensive given we can buy an albeit inferior wine from Lidls for 1Euro99c. but it is sooooo smooth to drink and very superior.
It was John and Glenda"s 46th wedding anniversary whilst at Florias so we used one bottle to celebrate that. The next bottle we will keep for ourselves it is so luscious.
Waking up on the anniversay morning the anniversary fairy, in the form of Hettie, had done her bit decorating John and Glenda's pitch and caravan with toilet paper, wine, beer, chocolates and everything else under the sun. It was hilarious and a celebratory lunch followed by French pastries, champagne and good  wine in the evening sealed their happy, monumental occasion.
Whilst on the subject of marital happiness we were never too far from entertainment in the form of "The Lovers". No need to explain here all you need is your imagination.
Another memorable experience here was the arrival of Steve and Lindsey Brookes from the UK next door to us on the campsite and Steve played the guitar and sang. He had just converted a van to a camper himself and this was their inaugural run. He had done such a great job but he is also very musically talented doing gigs around London. We suspect he could be semi famous and we were lucky to have him and Lindsey at our evening gatherings. He gave us a CD when they left saying the few days they were there had been the happiest and most friendly out of their entire trip - they had been lonely till then.
It was also our turn to seriously start to think about moving on. We loved it here but the weather started to change and during an evening of stormy weather we knew it would be the next day.
Having  our last drinks together as a group we were presented with a sketch of Molly B, hand drawn by John and very good, with notes of encouragement, best wishes and love from these 5 awesome people - John the organiser, Glenda the noncooker, Rob the mortician, Jan the fit one and Hettie the quick draw. We hope our paths will cross once again throughout our journey but if not there is always a bed in Nelson whenever we are home.
Next morning we left, in the rain, with sad hearts and lots of "7 kisses hugs" on our way to Beaulieu - sur Dordogne

FRANCE - PART 2

It seems a long while since I have written a blog. Our journey has been so picturesque and enjoyable there seems to have been very little time. On that note I am truly serious however strange it may sound. Where our days go in this beautiful country is confounding but the very warm weather with endless hours of sunshine has a big part to play in our enjoyment. We love France and really feel it's character.
On Thursday morning we set off from Plage de Pors Peron heading towards Malestroit where we hoped to spend one night freedom camping. Passing through Confort Melas, St. Yvi and Pont Aven (a very busy tourist town) we stocked up at our favourite supermarket - Lidls - in Quimperle. Good French cheeses and wine on board we set off again and suddenly we experience an earsplitting screeching which scared the pants of us both. It was the heat/smoke alarm and the only reason we believe this happened was the inordinate heat of the day.
We have now crossed the District border from Finistere to Morbihan and we traverse Vanne (too big for us) through St. Marcel and onto Malestroit defined as a "petite city of character" and it was. The down side of here was that the Aire for motorhomes had been closed and was now in an open paddock where more than 50 motorhomes were parked cheek by jowl along the canal. Scuttling to an overgrown corner away from the huddle we were quite happy, walked into the village which was very picturesque, stopped for a wine in the village square and toddled off early the next morning heading for Rablay sur Layon.
If you are map following us on our travels we passed through: St.Congard; St.Grave; Peillac; St.Vincent where we stopped at the village market and bought the most amazing French lettuce for 1 Euro; Redon; Derval; Lusanger; through fields and fields of corn and maze; Chateaubriant; La Touche; St.Julien de Vouvantes and into La Chapelle Glain where we stopped to have the most exquisite French Formulae lunch which for Gary included the biggest piece of Tuna I have seen!!!!
Replete we continued our journey on through La Pin; Cande; skirted Angrie; through Le Loiraix Beconnais; Becon-Les-Granites; St.Augustin des Bois; St.Georges sur Loire; beautiful Savineres with it's extremely narrow streets; over the Loire river where there had been a very nasty accident; through Rockfort sur Loire where we started to see vineyards again - as in Marlborough, vineyard after vineyard creating the most fascinating views over the steep hillsides and finally into Rablay sur Layon where we overnight free-camped in a small aire at the base of the village. Walking into the village it was desolate - not a restaurant, not a shop of any description. Although the village was obviously very old and had great history and architecture it had seemingly been given over to the artistic community and this particular evening it was deserted and uninspiring. We did note that the following morning there was a pottery exhibition in the now empty town square which gave us a little hope and decided we would stay and explore in the morning before moving on. Well I am sure you know what I am going to say next...........it was FANTASTIC!!!! Some of the talent was unbelievable and in the very French style of fine leaves of clay layered and rustic and rough. The village was rocking too and much to our surprise we discovered an Artisan Gallery in which we spent an hour or so as it was so absorbing. It was a shame we could not bring any items home with us, such was their uniqueness, but for those on facebook getting our photos you will know what I mean as I try to describe my memories.
Happy that we had stayed and seen some life in the old village we travelled on again this time heading for the coast - St.Palais sur Mer. Plotting a course through Chemille; La Barre; St. Georges des Gardes; Cholet; we dropped down into the Vallie du Puppe. All this time the All Blacks are playing their first game in the Bledisloe Cup against Australia and along with navigating, taking photos and writing down where we are, I was reading the live commentary to Gary from my phone. The down side is that I am on the left of Gary in Molly B!!!!!????
We are travelling for 5hours plus today and we cover a lot of territory as we whizz through Endrennes; St Vincents Sterlanges; les troix pigeons; La Leue; Feole; St Hermine; Le Magny; St Jean de Beugne; La Cherant Maritime; Borge Champon and suddenly we have left all the charming delightful little villages behind along with their narrow roads,village squares and colourful hanging baskets and we are out on very flat plains full of fields of sunflowers turning their big yellow heads to kiss the sun.
Skirting around the very big City of Aytre it is full time and the ALL BLACKS HAVE WON 42 - 8!!!!! and our happiness is complete.
Rochefort, Marennes and Le Gua fly past and we move into the Oyster area of France - St. Sulpice de Royan (very cute) and Taupignac and then we are where we set off to be - Saint Palais sur Mer where we plan to spend 3 nights which turns into 7????? Funny that.
Setting up our campsite - so easy and straightforward with our amazing new van Molly B - we are first welcomed by an elderly ex school teacher couple from Britain who join us in a glass of wine and a chat. Departing the next morning we wave goodbye, wish them good travels and settle down to relax, read and enjoy the amazing sunshine we are experiencing. There is a beach across the road - very rocky unless the tide is out - and a soft, sandy beach just along the promenade which, when we arrive there, looks like it is infested with ants it is so busy, This is quite an expensive, touristy place but there are some good walks and there is a circus coming to town. The campsite is very busy with people coming and going every single day and we are really just marking time until the school holidays finish. People at this campsite are very interested in us coming from New Zealand, some of whom are mystified as to how we got here with our camper, some of whom have visited New Zealand and seem to know the North Island quite well!! Eventually we meet a lovely Irish couple who we spend time with, give us lots of travelling tips and who we hope to meet up with again in Roses, Northern Spain later. Una had a wicked sense of humour quite belying the serious person we thought we had first met.
The circus did come to town as mentioned above - took all day to set up their huge encampment and animals - had just one show that night and by dawn the next morning had gone!!! It was a though they had never been. We sat watching the set up for a few hours as it was quite fascinating and entertaining for many reasons. The animals were definitely well cared for on the ground but to be constantly on the move in 32 degree heat must take it's toll on humans and animals alike. The amount of humans and machinery it took to set up was incredible - most seem to be conversing in Russian.
We were content here for a while, relaxing, but after 7 nights and the intrusion of a nearby smoker we decided it was time to move on.
So on Saturday 27th we headed towards Oradour sur Glane via the Vallie des Cheronte, Cherac and Cognac where we parked by a river and had lunch. So many small, sometimes very plain and sometimes very pretty villages of little significance appeared almost on top of one another - Chateaubernard, Hiersac, the historic town of Anguoleme, Suaux, La Peruse, Etegnac, St.Junien and suddenly Gary veers off the road to our right. He has spotted the perfect overnight parking spot next to the river Vienne just before the river Vienne meets the river Glane. It is perfect for freedom camping and we are eventually joined by another campervan to keep us safe and cosy. French people come and picnic beside the river and fish along the river - it is very nice.
Next morning we set off for Oradour sur Glane just a short distance away. This is a village which was surrounded by the Nazis, all its inhabitants killed and the village and bodies set on fire. This was a retaliatory move after a German Nazi officer was captured. Over 600 men women and children died here and the village has been left exactly how it was found after the massacre although any bodies or bones interred. Heaps of Singer sewing machines, cars, bikes, prams, metal bedsteads burnt and rusting litter the village. It is heart breaking and soul destroying to see. Mans inhumanity to man never ceases to make us despair. The sites were shocking. The French have kept the memory of the villagers alive and they have done it well.
The same day we travel on to Limoge where we had the most amazing 4 nights at Camping Montreal. Initially we had thought we would camp at a different site with a swimming pool but on arrival and a quick glance around we realised things were not how they had been portrayed in our ACSI campsite book. "It will be like swimming in a bucket" came from Gary as we spotted the pool. Mmmmm how true that was.
So we moved on to our next site at Saint Germain Les Belles overlooking a man made lake with a swimming pool to die for and not many children if any at all. Run by a Dutch couple Hans and Leonie they did everything on the campsite including cooking for and running the restaurant which was busy every night. The food was great and the vin cheap. Once again we met some fabulous people here Gillian and Alan who we hope to also meet in Roses and John and Glenda who we hope to meet again in the Lot valley. One little incident had us laughing though. One morning I woke up to only one Keene sandle outside the door and when I enquired of Hans if this was a regular happening he had to admit that yes it happened often but not just with shoes although this was his speciality. He would take buckets of food, clogs anything he could pick up and carry in his teeth. He never damaged what he took, just moved it from one place to another. It was a night-time habit of a local black dog and it was our job to seek and find. Of course we did find it, hidden behind a chalet several metres away, intact and unchewed. Much was my relief.
It was hard to leave here. Once again we came for 2 nights and stayed for four. On the morning we were leaving so many people came to our site chatting, giving travel advice, saying their goodbyes and giving us their best wishes it was awesome. We finally left with a container of homemade Aioli, a gift from Hans and Leonie - very special and delicious - and headed for the Dordogne. We have looked forward to this part of our journey for so long and we were not to be disappointed.

FRANCE 2016

Good morning world ........it,s a scorcher too in Kilarney just as Kathleen predicted!!!! Maybe it is only the Irish men full of hot air!!!!!!! But.......this morning we are heading for Cork and Roscoff in France.
Not too far down the road, Cork is only an hour and a bit away, we hit RAIN!!!!! As we drive through Ballymakeera it is misty with a fine, soaking drizzle (I am sure you know the type) so we decide not to stop and head for Macroom where we discover there is a Saturday market and this quaint little township is booming and busting at the seams. There are traffic queues all through the town but at least this gives us a slow crawl through the main streets - equal to a motorised stroll - so although we can't park we see most of its quaintness and the town square and .......it is still drizzling!!!!!
Lissarda is next and then the Port of Cork where we find cheapish diesel before heading to France.
The Port of Cork seems to us to be the most efficient port we have experienced. Our queue time was minimal, our loading was amazing - how they work everything out we could not fatham - we were tucked right behind the bulkhead to allow smaller campers to park in front of us. They knew exactly what size van, bus, truck to summon forward and when - it was quite incredible. This was a huge, cruise boat style ship, an overnight sail and we had booked a cabin on Deck 5 - yep in the bowels!!!! But it was great - especially when we finally discovered the second bunk latched up in the ceiling of the cabin!!!!!
A few cheap cocktails, some food - which was wholesome and plentiful - a shower in our ensuite, a good nights sleep and 7am the next morning, Sunday, we drove onto the shores of France at Roscoff, Brittany into SUNSHINE!!!!!!
Driving on the RIGHT side of the road we immediately headed for Quimper but actually found we were extremely tired - must have been the stress of the ferry trip - so we pulled into a rest area beside a park in Pleyber Christ and had a two hour snooze!!!!! Absolutely unheard of for us and we were totally undisturbed - being a Sunday there were not too many people around.
Continuing our journey towards Quimper we arrived at our campsite in Chateaulin only to be told that we were expected the day before and our booking email had been consigned to the rubbish bin!!!!! Was true as well - on making the booking an OVERNIGHT ferry trip had not been taken into consideration, however she still had a couple of nice sites free and we stayed there for 4 nights in the end. This was a small, privately owned site and although the sanitary block left a bit to be desired it was not overrun by kids which was a bonus.
From Camping La Pointe it was a 15minute walk along the riverside to the village of Chateaulin, small, plain but possessed of the basics. Most of the smaller shops were "Closed for the Holidays" whilst others only opened sporadically. It suited us fine - we managed to sort out a French sim card with data, buy groceries for us and mats for Molly B - everything we needed. I managed to buy a watch made by Leny Harper which was an obvious must and the stay was pleasant with the rest of the time spent reading, eating and drinking - the basics really???
But....the weather was still not warm enough and there were signs of a further deterioration so we impulsively headed North again to find a beach and the ever elusive sunshine we were craving for.
We are still in the Finistere region of Brittany and as Corlay, La Croix, Quintin and Les Fraiche pass by the weather actually starts to improve - we have pure blue skys and sunshine - and then to complete an almost perfect day - our first "rattle free" day in Molly B - we drive into picture perfect Hillion which is a very small village which, incidentally has the most gorgeous, unassuming restaurant anyone would wish to stumble across and a very large, half empty carpark that we can fit into. We ordered the "Formulae" of three courses,a quarter of wine each and coffee at 13 Euro each all up. Superb is the only way to describe this meal and with nothing left on any of our plates we stumbled back to Molly B replete. We were freedom camping in an Aire on the beach just down the road at Pleneuf-Val- Andre so all was well. (I should mention here for those of you looking at a map whilst reading this blog that 5 days later we have almost driven full circle and are now within a stones throw of Roscoff again!!!!!) This was a good free Aire and obviously used well by the French for a cheap holiday but the beach was crap and next morning, after a walk along the clifftop, we came back to a French camper parked at our back doorstep so we high tailed it out of there fast and headed West to another beach and Aire at St. Pol de Leon.
This drive took us through Yffimac, Brieuc and to Lannion which is a very old town in Finistere region of Brittany with lots of history and great architecture. Some of the older, tudor style buildings are very colourful and appear to be holding each other up in their own wobbly way. This was a nice little township, although we had a relatively mediocre lunch here but a good park just on the outskirts of town - guess you can't have everything!!!!! Crepes are the order of the day in this area of Brittany - savoury and sweet.
Travelling on we finally arrived at our beach Aire at St. Pol de Leon only to find it was closed and the whole place was heaving with people, cars and campervans all enjoying the sunshine. Kate - the GPS - then took us along a hair-raising trip through the back, narrow streets of the town before spewing us back into the countryside - but not before we had made our first mistake of driving on the wrong side of the road into a small roundabout - just for a very little distance only though.
So we carried on to our next freedom camping site at the Basilica le Folgoet, in Le Folgoet, and as we passed through this agricultural area of Brittany we had the most peaceful drive on excellent roads - probably the nicest and prettiest scenery so far.
Staying one night here and enjoying looking through the Basilica and small village in the sunshine and warmth on Sunday we headed South to Douarnonez via Landerneau where a huge music festival was happening, the place looking like tent city, Daoulas, the pretty village of La Foue and out onto the peninsular to Crozan where we found an easy park to allow us to look around their Sunday market. Here we found a stall selling local honey and, believe it or not, a stall selling Vietnamese food which was delicious, as is the honey. Once again though this small village was chaotic with cars jammed everywhere and nowhere to go.
Finally escaping Crozan we retraced our journey back from the peninsular to Saint Nic, Plomodiern, Ploeven and back out towards the coast to Douarnonez, with it's fabulous marina, finally arriving at the coast in Poulen Sur Mer, Benzec-Cap-Sizun and eventually our destination at the Plage De Pors Peron campsite which is awesome. Free Wifi, nice clean sanitaries, croissants and baguettes to order, privacy and the most important - SUNSHINE!!!! It has been so hot that a brief sorte to the beach saw us burnt within an hour but unfortunately the Atlantic is still cold so no swimming for us - only the young and foolish venture in. 31 degrees has been the norm with warm balmy evenings and it has been exactly what we have been looking for ........that is until today!!!!!????? Everything changed and it has been misty, cloudy, rainy and cold with intermittent warm spots - apparently typical Finestere weather....fickel. Undeterred, a cooler day meant we could take an enjoyable but scary walk along the cliff tops comfortably, which made a welcome change from sunbathing in the long awaited sunshine.
Tomorrow we head off once again after 4 nights here to an Aire in-land this time. We shall see what pleasures that brings!

SOUTHERN IRELAND - EIRE PART 2

DOOLIN
Riverside camping, Doolin was, all in all, a bit of a blast in more ways than one. Trying to maintain electricity to the campervan was one of our biggest challenges. The campsite was hectic, this is obviously a "must see" place in Southern Ireland and we can probably see why........but ......to overload the electricity supply boxes by running extension wires and cables for great distances over wet grass was bound to cause problems somewhere along the line. Many times Gary had to sneak out in the dark and swap cables at the power box, believe me we were not alone in this skull duggery, and a request for management to sort the problem out was met with the answer " I'll be over in 5 minutes to have a look"!!!!!! Mmmmmm.....did we see anyone and was the problem fixed? Their code of ethics we realized was to just fit anyone in anywhere and they provided the extension cords to enable this to happen. Oh...and they only took cash?? Oh and the receipts were all hand scribbled??? Oh.....I smell a tax dodge here. We resorted to gas in the end.
Doolin is quaint though. There is a very narrow road, passing many a pub and brightly painted cafe, down to the harbour where ferries leave to take you to see the Cliffs of Moher. (We thought the cliffs were beautiful enough from vantage points along the road so didn't bother). Dolphins play there and touts from the competing ferry companies try to get you to go with their tour. They do offer incentives but no one seems to know what they are - the gullible hope they find out during the boat journey.
As I say the road is narrow and bends sharply to the right over a really cute stone bridge and then sharply to the left once the bridge has been successfully manouvered across - huge coaches access the harbour through here and the road is always busy. Strolling down this road one day we happened upon a commotion; not only was a coach stuck on the bend in the bridge but a car, with four people in it had bellied over the top of a small wall. Some people were watching and some were trying to lift the car back onto the road. Personally I felt sick - I am a "what if" person and could visualise all sorts of tragedies happening but Gary being Gary rolled up his sleeves to help (cold day again) and finally the rental car was lifted of the wall and back onto the road with very little damage. When the bus finally got round the bend onto the bridge, once again with guidance from Gary at the front and another bloke at the rear, everyone drove off as though nothing had happened!!!!!
We carried on our way to the harbour stopping at the iconic O'Connors pub for lunch - they did a mean Seafood Chowder with Beer and Treacle home-made bread - but the weather was really cold and windy so we headed back to Molly/Wilson/Barney. (As you have undoubtedly realised by now we are having trouble naming this van).
Most evenings were spent in the tavern listening to Irish traditional music - so talented - and meeting people, good and bad. We would recommend Doolin whole heartedly but not if you want electricity!!

DUBLIN
From Doolin we decided to cut across country to Rush just outside of Dublin. Travelling through Ennis, Tumgraney, Scarriff, Mount Shannon, Portumna we stopped at Offaly for the most beautiful chicken lunch. Driving through County Laois we headed through the forest and once more onto the Highlands - these jolly one lane roads again with passing places - and dense mist. Mountrath, Port Laoise whizzed past as did County Kildare and then we were in the thick of Dublin City in pouring rain. Spitting us out of the city into Fingal we continued our journey to the campsite in Rush - 3 very tired bodies, Gary, me and whatever our campervan is called.

RUSH
Planning to stay here for just one night we finished off staying for eight. Rush was a lovely little village with easy access by bus to Dublin City. Having what we considered to be the best site in the caravan park obviously helped - A camper on our blind side and an uninterrupted view across the beach, sea and harbour on the other - perfect. Electricity was good too.
Another plus was a bank holiday festival which gave us front row seats at the most thrilling airshow from the comfort of our own arm chairs, live music and singing, bouncy castles, traditional food and much much more.  Oh....and a hovering helicopter but we were not too sure what that was all about.
The village of Rush was just a five minute walk away where we met some extreme local characters including the double of Buster from Mrs Browns Boys and an old boy who drank too much, looked 90years old but in fact was the same age as me and lived happily in the past!!!! But the village was great and had everything we needed - including a Thai takeaway.
Taking an Hours bus ride into Dublin City we spent a day looking round seeming to find all the right places that tourists are supposed to visit and had a ball of a day. we actually were pleased we used shanskys pony to get around rather than the hop on hop off bus - felt we saw more of the true, old Dublin that way. Once again a bar was the feature - the famous Temple Bar! - where there was live music and singing all day long. It was pretty hectic in Dublin though and, exhausted, we beat a hasty retreat to the quietness of our Rush beach.

WEXFORD
We reluctantly departed Rush with the owner saying "Oh she does move then, thought you had lost your keys!" in search of a gas refill which we thankfully found in Fingal where Tommy, over a long period of time and much talk, finally filled both tanks. God forbid we had electricity problems again but "be prepared" we were.
Our idea was to freedom camp in Wexford in a car park Gary had seen on google maps overlooking the River as we headed back West but when we got there the park was full, was pay and display and also had height barriers on it. We seem to be coming across this all the time which tends to indicate the Irish have become cautionary regarding freedom camping in their country. The town looked lovely but every carpark was chocker so we drove through to get the feel of it and decided to just keep going. A short while down the road we found Mary Jo's Tavern!!! Quite isolated, big carpark and very inviting. Long story short we had a drink - Gary is quite taken with Guinness - and stayed the night in the carpark with an electric hookup!!!!! We couldn't believe our luck. Once again met some amazing, crazy people in the bar that night but what a find. Waking up in the morning after a peaceful nights sleep I noticed the low wall dedicated to the FORBIDDEN MCC. "What's that?" I ask Gary. "Oh, that is the Motorcycle Club's drinking leaner. They are a patched club and this is their pub but they are not allowed in with their patches on so they drink at the leaner". OK glad I didn't know that earlier!!!!
We head for Killarney feeling refreshed. We have been covering a lot of kilometres and were getting quite tired.

KILLARNEY
We are still heading West across country to Killarney where we can park up and travel to the Dingle
Peninsular and circumnavigate the Ring of Kerry. We also need to do some washing.
Stopping at New Ross we spy a tall ship in the harbour and because it is early there are parks!!!! Fabulous old boat but nothing and no one to tell us what it is about but we believe it is a permanent fixture there. It is a replica of an immigrant ship which took immigrants to America.
We have a long journey ahead and we travel through many Counties. County Killkenny with Killmacow and Moon Coin. County Tipperary with Carrick on Suir and Kilsheelan. We experience very high winds and torrential rain as we hit County Cork and Maikow and then we are in County Kerry and Killarney where we book into a campsite for our last 3 nights in Ireland. We are knackered and this campsite is full of Irish kids with toy guns running around shooting each other????
The following day we drive to Dingle along the Dingle Peninsular via Knockavota and Inch where a surf thingy is happening and the bay, which is very scenic and dramatic, is very, very busy and every park is taken.
Dingle is lovely though and well worth the trip even though it is "pull in the left hand mirror stuff" and twigs constantly scrape along the side of the van. We just wander through this hilly, old, fishing village taking in the sights and smells. On one street alone there are 6 pubs and there is always an O'Conner's and a Murphy's plus this time a Dingle Tavern. We decide to have lunch at Murphy's and meet an interesting couple from Switzerland who are on a 7 day coach tour. How do they do that???!!!
They think we are Irish, because my hair has gone so red and my skin so pale (their words not mine)
- guess it's a change from being Australian!!!!!
We decide to do the Ring of Kerry loop on the way back and because the weather was not too bad. We were slightly underwhelmed by this after all the hype we have been hearing. Don't get me wrong it was worth the effort but the roads were atrocious and we were shaken to pieces. The road was so narrow we drove with the right hand wheels bumpety bump over the raised cats-eyes in the centre of the road and the left side doing likewise on the road edge ones. What a noise! Then the left hand wing mirror, which sticks out 350mm, was scraping the bushes!  For such a major tourist attraction it was a nightmare. In places the roads were very narrow and the scenery much the same as elsewhere until we hit the last quarter where the vistas were more spectacular and craggy, the woodland was magical and enchanting and the small villages very endearing but.........and I have said this a few times now,,,,,,,the Irish are definitely capable of making something out of nothing, obviously they have all kissed the Blarney Stone!!!!!!!

Today we spent washing and cleaning for tomorrow we head for Cork and the ferry to Roscoff, France. Our last evening in Ireland the sun is shining and the weather is calm. Apparently it is going to be a "scorcher" tomorrow according to Kathleen - wonder if she has kissed the Blarney Stone too?????

SOUTHERN IRELAND - EIRE

LEO'S TAVERN - an experience which will stay in our hearts forever. If ever in Southern Ireland this is a must stop!!!!
As I finished on my last blog we toddled down to Leo's at about 2pm. Well, actually we went down to the fair to have a look but most of the stalls had ceased so somehow we managed to find ourselves inside the tavern with a table to sit at as well and a glass of beer and wine in front of us. The whole tavern is full of  memorabilia from the days of Enya and Clanard with Gold and Platinum disks on many of the walls. The whole placed buzzed and we sat in our seats meeting the most amazing people all night long. Drinks were bought for us and email addresses swapped. Local, incredibly gifted musicians took the stage amongst the clutter of violins, flutes and mandolins and the music was so great it reached the soul. The biggest voice of all though was Moya - Leo's daughter and Clanard singer. She reeled in everyone and the place was full of joy and happiness. Alas no Irish dancing which we have yet to see but we finally took the 5 minute walk home in the pitch dark at 2 am. New friends, new experiences and new memories to hold.
From Crolly (Croithli) we picked up The Wild Atlantic Way again through Loch 'n Luir, Owenea (this pretty little town has won the Best Town Award for years but alas did not welcome Campervans) slowly wending our way to Frosses and then on to Donegal township where, once again, there were no allowable places for us to park. An officious attendant informed us and 2 other campervans that we were in a car park not a campervan park but he did graciously allow us 10 mins to visit the Tourist Information site. After that all 3 campervans drove out of town which was a big shame as a stop in Donegal itself was planned and the place looked lovely. Never mind but there definitely will not be a next time.
Midges are the curse here and currently, even though I used this magical Avon Skin stuff, I am covered in midge bites, especially on my face, under my eyes and chin, behind my ears and down my neck. They are awful and one does have to become midge savvy being here......however, I have to say I was not!!!!! More about that later.
Our next two days had some sunshine extracts to boast about which was good because clean underwear had become a vital necessity. Gary found a lovely campsite by a lake with easy walking into Ballyshannon and a front loading washing machine - clap hands in glee!!!!! Blog up to date, washing washed and dried and Ballyshannon visited. This old town had so much history. This old town was altered completely in the late 1940s with the building of a dam on the River Erne on it's outskirts. This old town went from a prosperous thriving salmon and log exporting town to a slowly dying decaying place as the river dried up to a narrow canal. This old town lost it's heart and is still suffering. This old town was incredibly sad. This old town had a rather tired old pub, very quiet and not visited by many. Behind the bar sat a leprechaun - no not really but very lifelike anyways. (Touch of Irish here you notice?) Funny thing was this little old leprechaun had a very lovely looking daughter which sort of emphasized the fact that she could be a real leprechaun. Getting to talking, as we do, the subject of "peat stacking" ensued. Well an hour later we left this lovely leprechaun and her pub with a supermarket bag containing..........what? Yep.....2 clods of dried peat. Never to be forgotten that one. Not sure when or where or how they will be useful but they are in the boot and are travelling with us.
Now we are heading where? Well we are driving towards Enniskillen and it is RAINING again. We zip back into Northern Ireland to visit the Marble Arch Caves. Enniskillen is just another township surrounded by lakes - think we might be all laked out - so we give that a swerve and head for the caves. For those who have seen the pics on Facebook you will have seen they were so well worth a visit. The caves have not been exploited or commercialised, they are very aux naturelle. A short boat ride in the depths of the cave make the journey through very real. This was absolutely awesome. The caves are underneath a Peat Bog within a Global Geo Park and, once again, so much history. Google them and you can find out a lot more.
Our next night we free camped which is so easy to do in this van, just on the Northern/Southern border outside of Belcoo and next morning headed for Ballina via Sligo - in the RAIN again! Sligo turned out to be an industrial type city so we circumnavigated that and did a wee detour back into the countryside, through farmland with cottages dotted here and there; through Cloonascoffagh and Knockback and into County Mayo.
What we are noticing here in Eire is that modern houses are big and spacious and are on large sections but, what is different is the clinical nature of the houses and sections - just vast amounts of grass and tarmac or vast amounts of grass and gravel - not a flower, bush or tree  in sight. Very beautifully kept with emerald green, manicured grass but......looking more like an office than a home. For what it is worth the sterility is striking for us.
Managed to find a park in Ballina so had a stroll around. Saw a "phone hospital" and a "shoe hospital" and Gary bought a pair of nice fitting jeans and I posted a letter to the Insurance Company claiming a whopping $390 for a 10 minute consult and an xray of my ankle.
And we headed on noticing, sadly, so many smaller villages dying with boarded up shops and closed taverns, followed a funeral procession in Ballycastle (that name again) stopping at the Neolithic Centre at the top of a huge cliff - the cliff was awesome but the centre not so much. Good for a loo stop though!!!
Talking of the funeral people, many in this case, walk behind the hearse as it leaves the church for the cemetery but not only that all deaths throughout Ireland are announced on the radio many times a day after the news. Strange but also nice.
Travelling on and deciding to take a detour shown as a designated view point to Doranspoint Harbour we were thrown onto grassy single lane tracks which were once again quite scary with a larger van. However we managed it and arrived at our destination. A muddy jetty with a wreck of a boat sucking into the silty bottom; a couple of abandoned cars and an uninhabited house. Pretty but......we soon hightailed it out of there. The return journey itself an experience not to be missed!!!!! The Irish have a knack of making something out of nothing!!!!
We free camped that night just outside of Claggan - looked the ideal spot - by a lake, quiet and flat. We were happy. People came and went and a camper momentarily parked behind us and then swiftly took off......why? All was to be revealed when I opened the camper door to take a picture of the most glorious sunset and became smothered, along with my phone, in midges. The camper within seconds was full of them. The next 2hours was spent trying to eradicate them from the van which was partially successful. Next morning however I was covered in bites, as mentioned earlier, everywhere a mountain of bites. Cathie 30 odd --- Gary 0. Not one bite for Gary.......just shows how acidy his blood must be!!!!! Getting up next morning the camper was surrounded by clouds of midges, even coming in through the vents. Yep that camper that left certainly knew more than we did but boy.... that was a very fast learning curve on our part.
Next day we went in search of the Sky Loop - a detour from the Wild Atlantic Way and apparently quite a beautiful journey. So, on to Mulranny which sported a cautionary road sign stating there were "wankers on the road" (true, cross my heart), through Newport and on to Westport. Westport in its self is a very pretty little town and we would have loved to have stopped but unfortunately there was no parking provision for camper vans which was a shame again......so we toodled on.
The drive between Westport and Connemara, County Galway was beautiful and especially pretty. We passed the Lost Valley but were not game to wander too off piste after our last experience. Passing through Leenane and Kilarry Harbour - where there were huge amounts of mussel lines - noticing Kylemore Abbey tucked way into the bush we turned onto the Sky Loop at Letterfrack. Mmmm - Shades of Scotland here!!!! It was three quarters of an hour of mind blowing road. Garys retort: "these roads are like one big fun park. Better than the helter skelter at Dreamworld!!!!!" How our left hand mirror is still in place I will never know.
We exited the "fun park" at Clifden and drove directly to Doolin. Neither of us being fond of oysters we drove on through Clarinbridge, their home in Ireland, to a very full, busy campsite in Doolin. Close to the Cliffs of Mohar, local Irish pubs and a rather lovely harbour we settled down to enjoy the Irish way for 3 full nights.
And we did enjoy but check the next blog for the update of Doolin. If it sounds great namewise, it usually is.
Enjoy