Impressions of Bali

 

Rice Fields

 

Us blending in with the locals

 

Denpasar Market

After 25 years not a lot has changed in Bali. Sure it has got busier with more traffic and there are 4 lane highways now, but the essence of the country remains. It is smelly, dirty and mostly unhygienic, but quintessentially it has a charm and atmosphere only Bali can produce. The people are friendly, but pushy to the stage of begging, and will rip off the tourist if they can. They live a primarily poor existence in run down housing and it seems there is a class system, where the Javanese do menial tasks like building roads and the Balinese own the shops and businesses. Even the women carry baskets of rocks on their heads at road works. Some modernity has developed over the years but the villages are pretty much unchanged. The footpaths are death traps at night with huge holes where repairs have been done and the concrete lid has been left off the drain. OSH would have a field day. I guess it is a case of look out for yourself and don’t rely on regulations to look after you. My sentiments exactly, we are just so over regulated in the western world it is too restrictive a lifestyle. However, in saying that, some logic and common sense should tell them that these holes should be fixed. The power wires are run in bundles from post to post about 2 meters above ground. Just where anyone can reach up and grab them. They are an eyesore and dangerous, but it seems to work fine.

In most shops you can barter the prices and the rule of thumb is to halve what they offer and then meet somewhere in the middle. Cathie was more ‘aggressive’ than me and got some good prices. I reckon the prices were a bargain anyway by NZ standards and felt like I was ripping them off. We lived like millionaires with literally a million rupiah in our pocket. 30,000rp was about $4 and that bought us dinner for two at the local Warung! It felt great to say “here you are Honey, here’s a hundred thousand, get what you want”.

We really enjoyed our trip into the countryside from Ubud where you see the rice fields and the villages where the ‘real’ people live. So green and lush and peaceful, just magic. The beaches were ok but an algae was evident as brown bubbles close to shore in lots of places and no swimming was allowed there. We could see right along to Kuta where the hotels had chairs and umbrellas out for rent, but that area was full of Australians partying, nightclubbing and surfing, so we stayed away. This area is also full of pickpockets, touts, beggars and prostitutes so didn't want the hassles.

 

It was hot, humid and busy during our two week stay and we stayed in 4 different places but it was still enjoyable and recommend anyone to visit, especially Lembongon Island.

Selemat Jalan

Cathie & Gary

Hi everyone, family and friends.
Happy Easter to all. travel safely wherever  you may be going and enjoy Easter with family and friends. If the Easter bunny is calling on you - enjoy to the max. The closest we could get to an Easter Egg was a box of Snickers for $12nz so  as chocolateholics we are happy. There has been a definite lack of wine since we left Nz!!!!
Blog on Singapore and Malaka coming soon.
Love to all, enjoy the break
Cathie and Gary xx

Lembongan Island - Bali

 

 

The morning we were to leave Ubud to catch the boat to Lembongan Island from Sanur, it was raining heavily. Bags packed and covers on we put our coats over us and our backpacks and towed/lifted the cases 200 meters down the hill to the pick-up point looking like the hunchback of notre dame.

Not sure what side of the street we had to wait we chose a shop front which had a small amount of protection from the rain. 15 minutes later a 12-seater pulled up and we were the only ones on it. Sweet.

Hmmm, not so sweet. Several pick-ups later we were chocca. 12 people and all their bags squashed into a van on a humid wet day… not priceless. But wait, there’s more! The driver stopped again and you guessed it, another girl and her bags were expected to squeeze in. That makes 13 plus the driver. I thought no way, she will have to lie horizontally on someone’s lap, but the driver took two large cases from the back and put them on OUR knees, the only spare space available. Would have preferred the first option! Cathies view of the road was blocked and god knows whose cases they were but we had to support them all the way to Sanur. The driver was heavy on the brakes and quick on take-off, so it was difficult to concentrate on anything but the bloody bags….and they weren’t even ours!

By the time we got to the beach at Sanur, an hour later, it had stopped raining so lined up to present our tickets. We had chosen the cheapest tickets on the slow boat, half the price of the fast boat. Yeah, I know, trust Gary! We were pointed to a boat bobbing around in the waves at the beach. It was called a Public Boat as mostly only the public going to and from the island used it to carry goods. The sea was a bit rough and Cathies face was showing some consternation. A porter took one of our bags and took off down the beach. He waded in up to his waist and heaved the bag aboard. (thank goodness for the pack cover) He came back and did the same with the other. I thought he would have to throw Cathie over his shoulder and put her on board next! We trooped off, all 10 of us cheapskates and quite simply waited for the waves to recede and stepped gingerly on. Sure we got our feet wet, but hey it was an experience. On climbing in past the three big outboard motors, and down into the cabin we saw that the seating arrangements were just a series of boards nailed to a post on which one sat.  Safer to stand up if it was rough. We motored out through the breakers amongst the surfers and were thankful that the boat had outriggers, like an island canoe, only bigger. Once past the breaker line it soon smoothed out and it was rather pleasant. There was about a two meter swell running but that was fine.

Pulling into the beach on the Island was just the reverse of getting on. Easy peasy. Now we had to find our way to the hotel. Unbeknown to us the slow boat did not go to mushroom bay where we were staying, so looked around for a taxi. Hmmmm……. A guy said “ this is not Bali, no taxi here, only motorbike. I will take you and the bags on my bike”. Yeah right, Cathies face was once again telling a story. The helpful chap said there were only 11 vehicles on the Island but he would get one for us. We waited 20minutes in the humid sun with our bags and chatted with a young Australian couple. We were told the ride would be 150,000 Rps (NZ $18.75) We didn’t haggle as we just needed to get to the accommodation and rid ourselves of the bags. We piled on the back after offering the Ozzie couple a ride too, but they had someone coming to meet them. Off we went through narrow lanes and some shops and then wound our way up the hill out of the village. Where the hell were we going? The track got rougher and still we hurtled on. Trees were whipping over the top of us and motorbikes were following us. God we are being abducted and will be raped and shot! I don’t want to be raped! The truck stopped on a bend beside a steep cliff with a view of the village below and the beach we had just left. This is it, we are going to be thrown over! The motorbikes tooted and continued on. The driver got out and said “ Do you want to take a picture?” He smiled. We smiled and obliged. Back on the track again, you couldn’t call it a road, we took a wrong turn and had to reverse 100meters. Very soon we were at the top of a hill and pulled up by a concrete wall and smiling faces came out to say hello and take our bags to “reception”.

Relief all round. We were given cold juice and filled in the forms sitting on a couch in the sand. Nice touch. Looking around to the dining area, we liked what we saw. In fact this place soon stole our hearts. The room was great, the staff were awesome, the pool was incredible, the food was fantastic and the managers kids were cute. We only booked for two nights, but wished it was for longer. The bathroom was outside in an enclosed yard (only bathroom I’ve been in where you can get a tan.) The bed was a king size with a canopy and mosquito netting looking out to the beautiful gardens and our front patio. It had aircon but no fridge and the free wifi was not too bad. We even got reception around the pool. Now the pool…. That was built up high so you got a view and it had one end which the water flowed over to create an infinity effect. It was spotless and clear and we pretty much had it to ourselves. There were only 5 villas on the property and were about 8 months old, so in pretty good nick, unlike most Balinese places. Our shower did run out of hot water, but the manager fixed it quickly.

We met a French couple who spoke no English but we got by with our rudimentary French and sign language. The interaction was great fun. They left and a German couple from Heidelburg arrived. We planned to go to Heidelburg so swapped addresses and e-mails. Nice young couple. Spent a few hours at the pool together. Cathie has now learnt to swim freestyle! With expert coaching from me I might add, and some determination by her. She can almost beat me from end to end. Now underwater swimming is another story. Dunno why, but she just can’t get down! She thinks she is under ‘cause her face is in, but her backside is ducking and diving like an asthmatic whale trying to breath. ( Sorry sweetheart ) However we still have time to practice. We did have lots of laughs trying tho. Even the German couple got involved. This guy actually swam 5 lengths underwater! We went to the beach about 10minutes walk down a track and visited other restaurants by the water, we went for cliff-top walks and visited another resort to compare. $200 a night as opposed to $62?, no contest and no atmosphere.

After just two nights on the Island we now know that we should have spent less time in Ubud and more time here. On the last day we spoke with Putu, the owners son, about changing our return ticket for a later time and a faster boat. He was so obliging. He took us in his truck (now we have ridden in 2 of the 11 cars on the island ) and tried to sort out what we had to do and find the company we had the tickets with. No such luck….the company was only on the mainland, so we had to buy two new tickets on the fast boat and try for a refund when we got back. Fat chance I thought. I explained to the chap at the ticket window but he wasn’t interested, so I was prepared to forfeit the 250,000 Rpa. But do you know what? My fabulous lady e-mailed the Ubud hotel we paid the money to and after a few e-mails we had the money delivered to us to our hotel in Sanur! Job done very nicely my dear. We can afford to buy a few more Bintang Beers.

The trip back was by fast boat this time but we still got our feet wet. 30mins later we were back on the beach we started from almost 3 days ago. Wet feet again. We were descended on by porters to carry our bags and unofficial taxi drivers to take us anywhere for a price. We had the name of our hotel on a card and after haggling from 50,000 down to 20,000rpa we were delivered to our next hotel. Found it on Wotif.com I think. The Mai Meseree Villas. Absolutely awesome! We were shown to our villa behind high stone walls and Cathie said “Is this all ours?” There are two big bedrooms each with ensuites, a huge open plan lounge/dining area with Plasma TV and a fridge! The best part is that directly off the patio we have our very own private pool about 6mx3m and 1.6m deep. Just what the doctor ordered. We didn’t leave the place for the rest of the day as we swam and read and just soaked up the surroundings. We went down the street later in the evening and found a roadside stall selling local takeaway food so we pointed to choose the things we wanted and paid 40,000rpa ( $5.00 for the lot) It was great and no after effects were had the next day. We also bought 4 large bottles of Bintang beer for about $11.00 and put them in the fridge. Heaven must be like this.

Next day, after a bad sleep due to the frogs mating calls going on all night, we walked in the searing heat 2or3 km to Sanur Beach (the one we paid 20,000 to leave the day before) Very commercial with the same shops selling the same items everywhere. When I last stayed in Sanur it was pretty much the same. You are pestered to visit their shops and pleaded with to buy something to give them good luck. Cathie has bought a couple of dresses and tops, but other than the obligatory t-shirt I have yet to be tempted. Mainly because we are just starting our journey and my case is full and heavy! We did succumb to temptation and had another massage each though. My very first massage was on this beach about 25years ago. This time it was done on rickety trestle tables under a tarpaulin right in front of a nice resort. Both had to strip to our underwear in full view and men were just sitting watching! The massages were for an hour and cost 50,000 each ($6.50)… still not as good as the one Eleni gave me in Melbourne though.

 We changed into the second bedroom the next night and got a better sleep. Four nights here altogether and we both really don’t want to go outside again. We have everything here. I might add that we are the only guests here and could have shifted to any of the other villas if we wanted to. They too had private pools and were even more opulent with outdoor bathrooms, wardrobes, and the lounges were outside too. Only the bedrooms were enclosed. Quite nice really but we didn’t need all the extra room and their pools were too far from the patio. Picky aye? However, the best thing that happened was that we were invited as guests to a traditional Balinese wedding being held at the hotel. Nearly didn’t make it as Cathie went to shower after being in the pool and fell heavily on the tiles. She hurt her arm and head with a large lump and bruise coming up immediately. She rallied but we missed the actual ceremony and only got to have the eats. Still we were included in photos and as the groom was a policeman there were lots of Bali cops around. We sat and had a chat to the Bali chief of police! Could be a good contact if we ever get into trouble here. The groom’s sister is teaching English so was keen to practice with us which was nice and her parents hung around although they couldn’t understand. Her mum was too shy to try, but I got her saying “I love you” All in all a great day and then back into the pool for a late night swim

Off to Singapore next and we have just wasted a day looking at booking accommodation in Malaysia after that. So confusing… ah well we’d better get used to it.

‘Till the next one…. Take care

Gary & Cathie

 

Bali to Lembongan Island

Today we left Bali and took a "slow boat" to Lembongan Island - forever the trip will be known as "Shades of the Meekong" but more about that later in the blog. Gary visited Bali 25 years ago and decided to revisit his memories with me. So much has changed in this time and all for the tourist dollar unfortunately. Putting that aside we are having a ball. We are meeting some really lovely people and where possible trying to see the grass roots of this sometimes beautiful country. First stop Seminyak for 6 nights. We had to stay for 6 because Nepyi fell on the 5th night and we were not allowed out of our hotel - even the airport closed. There was no traffic on the streets and nobody worked. It was a family day of rest and relaxation and it was the Bali New Year. The reason for Nyepi or silence day is to put off evil spirits from entering the new year. If you are quiet, have no lights, tv or any noise at night either, then the evil spirits don't know you are there so they stay away - simple! There is quite a buildup to silence day with lots of evil spirit ceremonies on the beach and in the streets. Very large Gods are built from paper mashe, foam and polystyrene - extremely clever - and dominate the local villages. When Nyepi is over they are burnt. So the day before we brought some crackers and bits and pieces to fill our bellies and on NyepI had a quiet day lounging by the pool, reading, staying quiet etc and being good. As the day wore on I decided to dye my hair - first time ever and the greys were definitely coming through. So I started a lIttle later than I should have and it gets dark very quickly and quite early in Bali and before I was half way through the phone is ringing because we had the bathroom light on!,,,, Rest of hair dye was done in the dark and Tina it is not that easy to do even in the light. (for me anyway). The following day we hired a driver for the day - 250,000rps (32nz$). He took us to many places - warehouses to buy at cost price, silver jewellery makers, batik material designers, stone carvers, Tannah Lot - an ancient monastery on the top of a rock island. It was all very touristy and guarded by the monks who were keen to get as much money out of the hundreds of people who were there as was possible. You could be blessed with holy water, have some sand stuck to your forehead and a flower pushed behind your ear for a generous donation. If you did that you could then walk up a pathway to the far side of the rock. The temple Itself was not accessible to anyone. We were taken to a hut by our driver for lunch and ate with all the other local drivers paying 7nz$ for the 3 of us and that included bottled water too. Off to our next port of call another monastery on the top of a mountain this time with the sea crashing all around it. It was truly spectacular and it is called Uluwhatu. This is where we first encountered monkeys. To visit here we had to wear purple sarongs and take in fruit, and the driver a stick, to appease the monkeys who have become aggressive if you do not feed them. They can take your glasses and anything else you have on you accessible to them and hold you to ransom for food. If you are lucky enough to get them back - well it probably would not have been worth the effort. These monkeys are not happy with one piece of fruit either - they come at you catching fruit in each hand and each foot like a juggling act. It was fun. We were going to see the sun go down at Uluwhatu but there were coach loads of tourists there so took the option of returning to our hotel via the countryside which was equally as good. As we left Uluwhatu there was a monkey trying to eat a pink jandal and a "monkey scarer" a man who carried a catapult and put it to use if he thought the monkeys were being too forward. We left wondering whether this was why the monkeys were aggressive. Dempasar market was our next stop. It was great getting lost amongst the stalls and it was exactly as Gary remembered it from 25 years ago. The walkways were narrow and hot and down in the basement food was being cooked on coals kept alive by a high speed fan - it was magic if a tad smelly as well. Next morning we took a taxi to Ubud a place I had sooooo been looking forward to - it's qualities heralded to me many years ago and the one place in Bali I had always wished to visit. Eventually our accommodation was found up a little side street just outside of town but how the driver got out of that street in one piece having dropped us off.........!!!!!!!!!!! We were met by a very pleasant dutch man named Jan who took us to our room - big mistake! Anyway we stuck it out for 3 nights mainly because the only good thing about it was that the bed was clean and comfortable. It's name was In da Lodge, so he at least had a sense of humour. The wifi, I discovered, worked better from the middle of the adjoining rice paddy field than in the lodge. We had explored Ubud on the net so we had certain things and places we wished to see and do. Firstly the monkey forest! It was good, really good. The monkeys are well behaved and well looked after and seemingly have fun. I didn't know this but they love water, swimming and diving. We have some super photos but unfortunately I cannot load them on this blog??? We were fine with these monkeys until we decided to go a little off piste that is. Quietly walking through an undeveloped and obviously rarely used part of the forest Gary had a large monkey drop onto his shoulders! "Cathie I have a monkey on me quick take a photo"! A photo? I was frozen to the spot! I turned around and there was Gary hanging on to his hat whilst the monkey was trying to rip it off. What next - glasses, cell phone? No, this monkey wanted into the back pack ( yes Tina the one you and Bruce bought us which has been amazingly useful). Now this pack folds over and over at the top and then clips together and the monkey had an issue figuring this out. So he very kindly pees all over Gary and the pack as a farewell gesture and was off. We decided to go back to the main drag but needed to get our water bottles out of the pack. Within seconds monkeys surrounded us trying to grab the water. Out of luck this time we too had become wiley to their antics. We did later watch a startled woman lose her water bottle in a flash from her hand to a monkey. He ripped the bottom of the bottle out whilst balancing on a rock at the edge of a precipice - unfortunately during the process he lost all the water and seemed quite befuddled by that. We did a lot of walking in Ubud, met some lovely people 2 of whom will stay in touch, and had meals in amazing restaurants recommended in reviews on Ubud. When travelling it is wise to take notice of these little gems otherwise so much could be missed that is good but we wanted to see some proper rice terraces. We hired a driver for 150,000rps for the morning and he took us way into the countryside of Ubud. DrIvIng through tradItIonal BalInese vIllages, steeped In magIcal hIstory, washIng was laId out for what seemed lIke mIles to dry, all along the roadsIdes. We walked through rice paddies, went to an organic coffee plantation where coffee beans are harvested from the poo of an animal called a Lewak. The bean then goes through a cleansing process, we hope, and finally is roasted. "Would we like to try some please?" Hmmm......no thanks but thankyou for the offer. It was a good morning though and we felt we had seen the real Ubud along with the rice fields. The next day we said goodbye to our 2 Austrian friends who gave us a few travelling tips and the offer to call see them when we hit Austria and hunkered down for some heavy rain and to eat Babi Guling, a local delicacy of spIt roasted suckling pig. Our disappointment was complete with our accommodation as the rain invaded our room and balcony. We are leaving tomorrow for our slowboat trip to Lembongan Island all kindly arranged by Jan the dutch host? Please let it not be raining in the morning. Morning arrives with the 3.30am rooster alarm, happened every morning right outside our window, and yes it was raining........hard. we had to get down to the main highway on our own in the pouring rain to be picked up to go to the harbour by minivan .....but at least It was warm. It worked well, first pick up, prime seats. By the time the last person was picked up we had 13 in the van wIth theIr luggage, bags on our laps, not ours, everyone was wet, hot and smelly and we were spat out in Sanur looking at a broken down, old, blue boat sitting in a raging incoming tide, in the rain! My thoughts immediately tumbled back to the most horrendous trip i have ever undertaken with Foo and Neil along the Meekong in the same conditions. A sly glance to my left created sheer terror in my heart - we had the breakers to negotiate as well! I believe Gary is continuing from here but please be aware that he is a man and I am of the gentler sex. In other words believe me not him! As I am having trouble with photos on this site I will put a screed on Facebook. Please friend me if you wish to view. Here endeth my part of a very protracted blog but let me assure you it gets better and I have fallen in love with Bali - Gary has always felt that way. We have been privileged and blessed to meet some amazing people, to converse with them any which way we can, to eat local food with the local people and to be invited to a traditional Balinese wedding here in Sanur. But that is my next blog. Till then goodnight - I am off for a swim in our own private pool! Love to all xxxx

Brisbane to Bali

My how time flys. Having very intermittent wifi does not help us to achieve our goal to keep this blog up to date.
Since blog number 8 we have said goodbye to Carrie and Stefan in Brisbane having spent a lovely few days despite the continuously torrential rain and flooding. After Australia Zoo we took advantage of good breaks In the weather to travel to, not clImb, Mount Cootha for lunch. We went to the amazIng BotanIcal Gardens at the base of Mount Cootha fIrst to do our lIttle commItment ceremony wIth CarrIe and Stefan under a beautIful tree wIth a lake and lIly pads In the background. Thanks Carrie and Stefan for your hospitality, it was really great to meet family and friends and share your birthday Stefan. We hope your weather has returned to normal now that we have gone. Was it true? Did we actually break a drought?
HeadIng off to JulIe and Brents In CarrIes lIttle shopping basket, tryIng to get there before major flooding occurred, Stefan drove through raIn so heavy It was ImpossIble to see a hand In front of the car. Rain, torrential, seems to be the basic feature of this holiday so far. It was great to meet some of Julie and Brents friends too. We had a lovely, and I mean lovely, BBQ under the awning in the rain but........all was good and thoroughly enjoyable. A "sudden death" trip to a huge shopping mall at Carrindale was our next adventure. Julie drove well, but, as Julie will say, the multistorey carpark was very confusing - and that was just finding the outlet to the first floor!! Anyway, enough said about that except the Aussies do do malls well and I found some new Sloggies. As if multistory carparks were not enough Julie decided, with our agreement, to go nightclubbing in Brisbane. Firstly dinner at an Asian fusion Bbq restaurant in Chinatown then on to Cloudlands nightclub. What an amazing place, we stayed longer than expected and caught the last train home. Thanks Julie and Brent for a great night out. Realising that we had some awful impact on the weather patterns we decided to make a quick 2 day trip to Surfers to give Julie and Brent a break. Backpacks in place we started our journey, a little test for our bigger endeavours to come, and headed to the train station with our internet instructions in hand. All started well - we caught our first train. Yeh we thought, this is easy peasy. Time to change trains! Not so cool. This is ours? No not this one, this one only stops at da de da de da. Oh ok as long as you're sure. MMMMM. YES YOU CAN GUESS THE REST. Anyway an hour later back on track we get off second train for first bus. Bus comes along great, this is easy peasy! Half the bus was coughing their hearts out and this poor woman was filling her lap and umbrella with vomit which was slowly sliding down the floor of the bus towards these unsuspecting Asian couple and their luggage! On top of that the driver took us straight past our hotel and we had to get a taxi back which cost us more than the whole train and bus trip combined. Well, we laughed until our sides were sore because we actually thought the taxi driver was dead in his car until Gary banged on the window to check! So we spent 2 night's at surfers and yes it did rain and was very windy but let us not forget that it is also very warm so we were able to walk along the beach, although most of it has disappeared in the bad weather conditions and high tides, met a couple of friends of Garys from Nelson in the township and won 7 night's free accommodation in Koh Samui or Phuket. The latter could be a scam but we will see. Trekking back to Julie and Brents we lIterally arrived maybe 2 seconds before the heavens opened to welcome us. Now, I have heard rumours that it is said the weather is down to us but I am still not convinced. We had great weather in Melbourne everyone. Our last night was spent outside under the awning, eating spaghetti bol, drinking wine and of course reminiscing. Yes the rain was drumming over head but you know - who cares, it was great. So bye to Julie, Brent, Chris and the cherubs and thanks for your hospitality too. Sorry about the rain but I hear all is now good since we left. ( oh no! I have forgotten our eye opening evening of KarIoke at the Manly pub. Just let me say this "thank heavens for Julie".) Off to Bali. Thanks Brent for the lift to the airport, shame we didn't take up your advice cos yes, we were at the wrong airport! Now all of you at this point who are worried about our ability to travel, please don't, we are fine and every cloud does have a silver lining. If we had not gone to the international instead of the domestic airport we would not have got our bags bubble wrapped for security, but then we would not have had our Bali hassles either - but that is another story altogether. Back to Brisbane airport all wrapped and bussed to correct airport, now comes the check in. Remember we are flying to an international destination, via Darwin, with qantas under jetstar and we are now at a domestic airport. Not easy but finally mastered. After 4 hours In Darwin we finally land at Dempasar and this is where the action starts. As we approach the bag carousel we see our matching, wrapped bags laid out neatly on the ground underneath a Priority stand with 2 uniformed "Porters" standing beside them. Bali has been my one dreaded destination because of all the medication I have to carry for such a long trip and I thought the worst. We approached our bags and we were asked which were ours so dutifully pointed them out. "Come with us this way please" so we dutifully followed. Our bags were put through scanners and we were whisked through customs etc and then we stopped, abruptly. The "porters" had a firm hold on our bags and outstretched hands......."money please". We had only a few Australian coins with us and no other ready money so offering them what we had we literally had to prise our bags out of their hands and make a dash towards what turned out to be the next step in our obstacle course.......the taxi driver gauntlet! Selecting the best driver we could late at night we finally arrived at our hotel In SemInyak-Bali Reski Asih cottages..........perfect. The room is airconditioned, large, clean and comfortable with a great, warm pool and situated just in the right place for us to explore and enjoy the township, beach, local villages and the more well-to-do resorts. We have done a lot of walking since we arrived and it is very, very hot. It seems to rain at night or very early morning and the daytime and evenings are beautiful. We admit to getting a little sunburned as the strength of the sun took us by surprise. Walking along the beach today there were many ceremonies happening for "hari raya nyepi" which is simply "silence day". These ceremonies which exorcise the evil spirits will go on until 12th March which is silence day. Everyone stays quiet so that the evil spirits think everyone has gone and then there will be no evil spirits for another year. People do not work or move outside of their homes and we will be confined to the hotel for the day - not too hard really. Today we also had the most amazing lunch on the beach. I have to say it is the best lunch I have ever had in my entire life. The flavours were so fresh and delicate - a combination of fruit, prawns, coriander and nuts - would not know where to start to replicate it. We will definitely go back there. Our first meal here cost us $3 for the two of us but we have not been able to replicate that as yet - maybe tonight when we wander into the village and buy from the local, streetside takeaway. Last night we ventured to Ku de ta. This is a moderately expensive restaurant where you lie on beds to drink cocktails, surrounded by candles, enjoying the view of the rolling surf. Mmmmmmm......the jury is out on that one for me but Gary felt rIght at home! Tomorrow we may take a tour so that will be our next update. Hope all is well with all our friends and family. Love to all C & G xxx